Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Engine Purrs Like A Kitten At Idle
Jul 26, 2016
This is on a new Asheville engine with less than 2000 miles. Noises are hard to describe, but I suspect this one will pretty easy to diagnose since it's so reproducible. The engine purrs like a kitten at idle and otherwise runs great. I don't know that this is an engine problem at all. Only at highway speeds (60+) and never any slower, there is a spinning, grinding type of sound that occurs every time I let off the throttle. It's loud enough that can easily hear it. It will last 5 or so seconds. I can stop the noise instantly by reapplying the throttle and restart it by letting off again and I can do that all day long. It seems to me that something disengages when I let off and reengages when I reapply the throttle. What the heck is this noise?
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Now that I have gotten my ScanGauge II to monitor all 4 egt sensor, I am wondering about temperatures while towing, especially how long to idle a hot engine after heavy towing.
I realize all 4 sensors are post turbo (and there is no chance I'm going to drill for an after market pre-turbo sensor). It seems the first one downstream will be the one to watch.
What temperature range we should look for before turning off the engine? IIRC, Ford recommends idling for 3 to 5 minutes, but watching the temp seems a bit more specific.
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After engine is up to temperature the engine has a buzzing/whining sound just at idle. Pick up rpms and its gone. They thought it was comeing from the oil filter and changed the filter and it disappeared for a while but its back again.
Very hard to pinpoint the sound even with a styphiscope. Going back to dealer.
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I have a 2006 f-250 6.0. About 2-ish months ago, it started revving up while I was parked and hooking up a trailer. It ended up needing an ICP sensor and pigtail wires. Was fine after that until around 10 days ago, it died when I was driving down the road and wouldn't start back up. That time it was the IPR. Got it back Friday, drove home (40 min) and didn't need to drive it until today. I fired it up, and we're back to the revving/surging. I decided not to take it on the road, really tired of being stranded. Could it be the icp again? Something else? I'm so tied of throwing money at this thing.
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04 f250 364000 miles 06 6.0. New fan clutch. Ac didn't work when I put the engine in found out the fan clutch was bad so I replaced it. Now it doesn't turn at idle until the engine warms up even if I have the ac on. In the mornings it comes on and keep the temp at 190. In the after noon when if finally comes on truck runs at 210 to 190. Fss 530 when on at 210 at idle. And 800 at 1200 rpm what is going on.
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
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Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.
Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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I recently bought a 2004 6.0 extended cab truck. It has 223,000 miles on it and has been running great. Bought it here in Arkansas where I live and recently drove it to Texas and back after having just put some Hot Shot oil treatment cleaner in it. I ran it the 1000 miles as it suggests. Just the other day as it was hitting the 1000 mile mark the truck started to lunge/runaway and stalled. I finally got it back home and started looking into the issue. Based on what it was doing, (lunging/running away, and at idle in park random burst of rpms and then dying after doing it a few times), I started to do some research. Most of the answers I found claimed it was the IPR valve. I found that the IPR valve is supposed to, as claimed by some, be pulled and inspected every 100,000 miles are so and if need be replaced or the rebuild kit gotten for it. So I decided to just replace it as well as the oil, oil filter and fuel filters.
When replacing the IPR valve I noticed that it was original and that its screen was missing. I didn't have any problem moving the little piston in the center of the shaft with a small bolt however that doesn't really mean that it isn't bad. I tried a magnet to see if the screen was still in there and nothing came out. I did not try using a camera as I do not currently have one, to look inside the port to see if I saw it. After replacing the IPR valve with a brand new one and changing the oil I started the truck. It seemed to be running a little ruff so I let it warm up. Not one minute later the exact same thing started happening, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), so I called it a night. The next morning I decided to change the fuel filters. No that it matters the order in which I did it, but I changed the top end filter first and the the one on the frame with the dealer recommended OEM filters as was the case with the oil. I did find in the filter on the frame that there was a small amount of sand and clay soil looking matter in the filter. I did clean out the filter housing as well.
After replacing the filters I started the truck to warm it up. I noticed that it was still running a little ruff but no random, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However after five minutes it started coming back. I finished letting the truck warm up and took it for a drive. Got it up to between 7-80mph for about 15 miles to try and see if I could "blow out" whatever may be in the fuel if that was even an issue I do not know. The truck seemed to get more power and run a little more smoothly so I stopped at my buddies house not to far from where I was and let it idle. No issues other than a little ruff idle. After about 10min I took off towards home doing similar speeds. I noticed at a little over 2000rpms that the truck was shaking a little but so I dropped the speed down. When I got home not more than one min after idling the same issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), started happening again.
At this point I took back to the interwebs and came across a post that said the ICP might be bad and does cause this issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However I also noticed that this is a huge debate as to whether or not the ICP can cause this. Ford master mechanics say no and other mechanics say yes and round and round it goes. I decided to do the simple test many recommended which was to simply unplug the ICP and see if anything changes. Things did change. No more lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). Not more than two minutes after plugging it back in, allowing the computer to account for it now, the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) came back. In the middle of it doing this I unplugged it and that went away. So needless to say I replaced the ICP and voila the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) is gone but the ruff idle is still there along with a slight loss of power.
To answer some questions:
1. The oil and water are not mixing so I am almost positive that the heads are fine
2. The intercooler couplings are leaking a bit. I have ordered the new ones and will replace them as soon as they come in. Can this cause the issue?
3. I am blowing no white or black smoke except for when the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) issue was present and the truck almost died. It would knock occasionally when it almost died and would send a slight puff of black smoke which I assume is a low or high fuel issue from the truck trying to die
4. I have not had the no start issue at all
5. I did not see any debris in the oil during the oil change
6. I didn't do the air test on the ICP port as I do not have the adapter.
7. The only code I got on the IBD II port was when I unplugged the ICP which was to be expected
8. I found no damaged wires
I am at the point where I am wanting to take it to ford to have them run a diagnostic on it but am wondering if there is anything else I need to be looking for. Here are a few questions I have.
1. Does this sound like a bad injector? (When I bought the truck it would sound like a misfire or ruff idle condition was present for about 5-15 seconds and then it would smooth out with no issues. It would run a little ruff if you tried to take off without letting it warm up, which I did once or twice and low rpms, but when it warmed up no issues were present).
2. Could this be the HPOP?
3. Could this be the FCIM? (The previous owner had replaced the FCIM not to long ago with one from Ford I believe. Said it cost him something like $700)
4. Could this be something clogging the oil screen under the manifold?
My final question right now is do any of you know where or what brand OBD II reader or software I can get for a decent price that will tell me the voltage of each injector and FCIM is without me having to go to Ford to get it looked at.
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My truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
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I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
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I was driving my 2011 the other day home from work and experienced a rough idle. Normally the truck idles pretty smooth. I noticed when I was driving at highway speeds the truck seems to shake a lot. I pulled over and turned the truck off. I did a walk around and could find anything out of the ordinary. I started it back up and no more rough idle. However while i was driving at freeway speeds I could feel a momentary lack of power, then the truck would regain its speed. This would only last a sec or two.
I figured I'd give it a few days.... well now its gotten worse. Its doing the same thing but a noticeable difference in the lack of power. I still have boost pressure and the turbo seems to working fine. Im trying to figure out what it might be. I'll be taking my truck into ford again...
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05 6.0 deleted and studded. 170k fresh filters and oil, no CEL or codes.
This has happened 3x in months, so it intermittent. Truck will start fine cold, except for this last episode ....
Truck starts right up, idles correctly, speed bumps up if its cold enough to trigger the high idle. About mid way through its warm up, at approx 130-140 idle falls off, barely runs. Almost knocking. Black smoke if you give it throttle. Has no power when its doing this. Truck will not move and almost dies in gear. Give it til 185ish degrees then pooof! All good.
However 2 days ago it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't catch. Stumbles and dies. Finally got it to start after setting the charger on it. I killed it. But this time when it started it was straight into its rough idle, no power...until about 180. I switched it off, restarted it and it was totally fine
Ficm is 47-47.5. Every now and then I see a 46.5 for a split sec
Hpop is 700-800cold cranking.
Not sure what else to look at.
Moto craft filters.
Amsoil 5w-40
Archoil in the fuel and oil
Twc3 at every fill up.
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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This morning I noticed when I started the truck had a rough idle shaking truck. The truck felt weak. Boost would go up but truck felt like it was in sand. While coasting on the highway at 50-55mph the truck not only lags in power but vibrates viciously until the overdrive kicks in that vibrations in cab and ssteering wheel go away.. What might be going on?
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I have 2007 6.0, rough idle starts, rough and no power till engine reaches running temperature, runs great after that. If the engine is off for half hour, and restarted, runs rough again till engine temp is back again.
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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Recently I have noticed my psi reading on my tuner hovers around .25 to .35 in the morning right when I start my truck. Normally it reads zero or is in the negatives. After driving around and stopping at red lights it will hover between .80 and 1.25. Now, I know that not a lot but its not what it normally reads.
Last week I went off road and my exhaust took a hit and loosened up and caused a small leak near the rear axle. I unbolted it and for the most part fixed the leak minus some alit air flow coming from the slits in the pipe. I'm not getting any codes and haven't noticed any decrease in performance. It does however seam to slow down quicker when I let off the throttle. I'm running an SCT X4 with dpf and erg delete and have a S&B CAI.
I called a performance exhaust shop and the tech said a small leak shouldn't cause any issue like that especially because its so far back. Another respectable vendor told me it might be that my vein are stick.
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My truck has a new HPOP, Water pump, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, and t stat. For a while it would only overheat when pulling a load or just pushing the truck hard. now that i have tuned my truck to street from SCT it overheats only when idling with ac on for a long period of time. turn on the heat and the temp jumps back down. i have full gauges and can do diagnostics but am not sure what to look for. My guess is a clogged radiator but that seems unlikely. My radiator dose have a small leak at the gasket could this cause it?
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This is tough one to search on. Most of the results talk about a poor idle or the high idle mod. I simply have no cold idle up. It used to work a few years ago but doesn't anymore. I live in Colorado and it's definitely cold enough for the high idle to kick in. I have no codes, nothing bad shows up on the Auto Enginuity.
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