Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Engine Does Not Crank - No Coolant In Reservoir
Apr 26, 2017
I did not run the truck for 5 months and the engine will not crank. I charged the batteries but when I turn the key nothing happen, I hear the glow plug system going but nothing else, starter does not click at all.
One thing that scares me is that there is no coolant left in the reservoir and I am scared that it went in the engine. I did have to add coolant last summer.
How can I first test the starter? Can I turn the engine by hand? If I push the truck, does the engine turn and can I tow it without damaging the engine if it is hydrolocked?
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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While servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
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Have been working on military diesels for years. I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0. I am currently waiting for a new oil cooler as I have oil coming from my coolant reservoir and no coolant in my crank. My question is I have been having my engine light coming on and off intermittently since deleting my EGR cooler.
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Traveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
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I'm new to the diesel scene and I'm having trouble here i just replaced the head gaskets and did the head studs, also the EGR delete with oil cooler done all by me at home because I'm low on cash and the truck was pouring coolant through the turbo before due to overheating and bad egr and blown head gaskets i didn't have the heads checked before i installed them because I'm broke now and I need my truck but it wont start now and continues to spit and smoke coolant out the reservoir.
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I bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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Ok I bought a 2006 Ford F350 with 6.0 after driving for about 3 weeks I noticed a little bit of coolant was disappearing out of reservoir. So yesterday I was driving with a load Reservoir overflows replace coolant with one gallon of coolant and finish trip with no issues. I started truck today and it will not stop smoking it is also not overheating after hearing about head gaskets. I'm hoping it might be EGR cooler white smoke smells like raw diesel fuel. What to do?
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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Today on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
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I just got a new 2006 E-350 van about 4 months a go (my previous 2004 got scraped - found out the fuel line leaving the secondary filter into the engine with clogged with bits of paper (wtf?)... after I decided salvaged it for parts for my new van...).
New van drives beautifully in the last 4 months without problem, but shut down on me on the highway yesterday. No strange noise or anything when it went out. I managed to coast safely to the side of the highway. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to start the truck again and had it towed home. It cranks, but doesn't start.
I have a scan gauge ii this time and it shows the following:
KOEO:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP 0
IPR 14.8%
Sync 0
Cranking:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP ~8PSI
IPR 84.7%
Sync 1
I still have a P0299 and P2262 check engine code from 2 days previous to the above, but this doesn't seem to be related to the no-start conditioning (both turbo related)
So, pretty much, I'm looking at a very low ICP. Some research indicates this is is due to a bad HPOP, bad STC fitting, or a massive leak. Given the really low ICP, can I rule out the STC fitting and leak? Looks like only the LPOP is providing pressure. Is there anyway to tell if the HPOP is dead or not once I remove it?
Anything I should shot-gun replace first? I have a bunch of salvaged parts from my old van in my garage, which doesn't include the HPOP unfortunately.
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So, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
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I have a 06 f250 that has a coolant leak in the front of the engine. It's was leaking about a month ago replaced the water pump it stopped. Then about 2 weeks later it started back up again. It only happens when the engine is cold. But once it warms up it starts leaking again. I am confused as all get out on this.
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So I have a 2003 6.0 king ranch w/ 164k on it.. EGR delete, high pressure oil pump, coolant filter and SCT tuning. A couple months back I had a coolant flush done. After about a week the coolant tank was empty.. Engine heated up due to loss of coolant.. I flushed system again and put ford gold coolant back into the tank. (5 gallons). A couple days later and coolant was very low and engine heated up?? There are no signs of leaks anywhere...Added water and it cooled back down. I'm lost. EGR is deleted but no studs done.....
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I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
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Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
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When the engine is working hard and the head (s) unseat, where does the coolant go, in the oil, to the atmosphere or both?
There are times when I am pulling heavy ( 18 to 20K+) pulling up a hill from a stop, and I can hear the engine working hard, then I later check the coolant level and it has drop.
Where did it go?
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I have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
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I spotted a leak last nite on my 6.0. It is coolant, running down the right rear on 2 metal lines that go to the trans I think. It was dark and 24 degrees so I did not spend too much time looking. Shut the mother down til I could research. 2004 250, 6.0 FX4x4, stock. Coolant was changed to green by previous owner. Bought it 4 months ago. 187,000 miles.....
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My 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
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