Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: EGR Valve / MAP Cleaned But Getting Code With Engine Light P0237?
Jun 13, 2015
The truck was running great besides a little black smoke on WOT and a little jerk while towing. No codes at all. I pulled the EGR valve and got it all cleaned up and reinstalled. I also had time to pull the MAP hose and clean it. I pulled the nipple out of the intake and cleaned it also. I didn't unplug the sensor, just cleaned the hose. Now I am getting an engine light, the MAP gauge reads 2.9, and my turbo gauge is at 22.4 at idle. The truck isn't running right. What should I try first? I don't see what I could have done wrong but this is a pain.
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P0237 code. The truck is a 2003 f250 with an edge evo . The truck will run great then throws this code and won't build boost of over 11 psi. Now it even drops it right off to 0. I replaced the map sensor a month ago and doesn't seem to have fixed anything.
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My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
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Engine light came on today, so I stopped at autozone for a scan # 7 fuel injector offset learning at minimum .
So what is the cause and how can it be fixed ? a new injector, calling to make an app. in the morning.
I would like to know the answer so I don't get a BS story from the dealer then again its warranty work.
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I have this problem code P0405. At fist it come up with a turbo under boost. I have replaced the Turbo and egr valve and I still have the P0405. I did notice a oily residual in the port for the egr valve I see no deference in coolant. She idles good I just have no power when I put it in gear to move.
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My check engine light came on today and the code read P1335. What code is that?
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CEL came on.. hooked up my cheap OBD/CAN scanner.. getting code P21B0..googled it and this is what i find: P21B0 - Reductant Level Sensor C Circuit High. What is this for? I've about had it with this truck..this having to replace a sensor every time I take it on a long trip stuff is getting ridiculous..2 EGT's, air charge cooler sensor, blower motor, and now this...
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I just bought a 2016 F250 with the diesel and thought I'd share an early ownership experience. At about the 1300 mile mark the check engine light came on and other than the remote start not working the truck continued to run great. I pulled a P0170 code, Fuel Trim Bank 1. And since the truck was still running fine, I considered clearing the code and see if it would come back. But since it's under warranty I decided to bring it to the dealer. They checked it out and diagnosed a bad Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor. They swapped it out and it seems to be good to go (no more light). While I was in there I asked them to turn on the DPF percentage full screen which they did.
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Just over 6000 miles....Yesterday morning the light came on. Dealer wouldn't look at it for a week. Went to my mechanic this morning to check the code it was p0181 fuel temp sensor. I read something online about the block heater making it too warm. The other night it was cold so I plugged it in, then yesterday morning it got warm overnight like into the lower 40s. I noticed the grill felt warm too. My mechanic cleared it if it comes back on do I have an issue? Is it ok to drive?
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I just picked up a 2011 Ford F350 about 8 months ago. I have had troubles with the check engine light coming and going. Now it's been on for good with loss of power. I have had the codes read and they came up as the p0401 and a code about the def heater. I can not remember that code off the top of my head. After some searching I have found a video about the def heater but nothing about the Egr cooler/valve. Is there anything out there about how to clean and remove the the cooler as I will be needing to do repairs myself as the truck has no warranty.
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Engine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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So I just went on a vacation pulling my horse trailer (first time leaving the state with this truck) and at about 5 hrs into the trip I had a message Reduced Engine Power and went from 70 on the interstate to 10 miles an hour and slowing rather quickly. I ended up shutting it off and restarting and it came back just like normal. I found the nearest ford dealer and they put the computer on it and it showed absolutely nothing, no codes and nothing wrong. The mechanic reset some things and we went on our way.
Then I ended up getting a check engine light saturday. I found someone to read the code and it came up with P164A which is an O2 sensor, he was able to clear it and I put on probably 50 miles today and no check engine light. I have about a 10 hour drive back home. Still debating if I take it to ford near here if they will do anything now that it doesn't show a light?? I hate to chance getting broke down on the highway with a truck that will basically shut down like that?? It just doesn't make sense to me.
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I have a 2011 6.7 F-350 Diesel. I bought the truck new and I've never had any problems with it until now. I have a SCT Chip & Tuner. It needed an update so I returned the truck to stock and a code came up on my dashboard that said "reduced engine power" which obviously I thought was Normal because of the modifications done to my truck.
I updated my tuner and returned the truck to a performance tune but this dashboard code will not go away. My truck isn't reading any codes and there's no other indication lights on. The truck has Normal RPM readings but 0 throttle response. No power at all...
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I'm brand new 6.0 owner. I am going to be performing many of the bullet proofing steps including plugging off of or a complete delete of the EGR cooler. I've read that the SCT tuner will turn off the CEL light and stop the ECM from operating EGR function.
What I can't find for sure is will I get a code P1000 (drive cycle not completed) with EGR turned off. Here in Seattle if you have a code P1000 stored you will not be allowed to complete emissions testing to get your tabs renewed. I'm guessing it does not set P1000.
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Ok my battery light came on, for awhile now, pulled the code and its P0625. I have all the info and tests for this code, sum I cant do because I dont have a live data or scanner capable. The fusible link is from the batt+ circuit(SDC14) red wire from three pin connector(C1104A) on alt to or from the mega fuse on passenger side by battery. It says in the schematic that there's a fusible link in between and with it been a fun job the way it is, trying to even get at these wire bundles plus to try and open them up is a nightmare.
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I purchased a 2011 ford f250 6.7 diesel today from a dealer in indiana. During test drive i noticed a shudder when i was doing over 60 and i immediately brought truck back and told seller about it.so he gets in and we drive it got it over 60 i hit brakes.it shuddered again but not as bad.long story short seller said it was prob a shock or strut or ball joint.
So I bought the truck anyhow and during the 600 mile drive back home and only when i was in top gear the truck would shudder when i hit a large bump.i would then slow way down to under 40mph and it would go back to driving normal.it did this a couple times but i noticed if i kept it under 60 it didnt seem to happen when i hit bumps.
So I get all the way home and check engine light comes on and i mean literally as soon as i got home from 600 mile drive. I plugged in my engine diagnostic tool and it shows a P0284 code. Are these things related? I called the dealer back and he says the truck is as is but he will look into it. I don't want to do further damage driving.
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2011 Ford f350 6.7 diesel ... Is this a problem we need to have fixed?
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2011 Ford f350 6.7 diesel .... Is this a problem we need to have fixed...
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So I've been chasing a problem in my 07 6.0 for about 6 months now I had just changed the oil cooler and a week later was driving home and she quit a mile from my house I have since then changed the cmp sensor the alternator 3 injectors all the o-rings in the nipples of my oil rail both down tubes in the oil rail and the IPR valve most resently and last night I hooked it up to me auto engenuity scanner and the IPR valve is still not closing it stay at 14.84% the whole time I'm cranking. The only code I'm running is cmp sensor low a cuircut or something like that I can't remember the number.
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From what I understand it should be dry where the valve goes. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist. The top groove had the most wetness, the middle groove was dry and the bottom was nearly dry. Where do I go from here - the video I watched said to scrape out and vacuum - not dry enough.
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