Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: EGR Cooler Was Leaking - Code P0401
Aug 28, 2015
So I'm about to do the oil and EGR coolers on my 6.0. At one point, or currently, my EGR cooler was leaking, so I've got that gooey residue in the intake, at least around the EGR valve. No dry carbon residue. I wondering what is the best way to clean the intake out, if at all. I have to assume there's some clogging in there, especially since I've had the P0401 code for a while. I just wanted to get this done right once, so I'm not coming back to it again any time soon....
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My 2011 has 62k miles and has been throwing P0401 codes, which results in losing power. I assume the EGR cooler is clogged. So I went to the dealership to see if it's covered, and was told there's no warranty coverage.
I would rather blockoff the EGR cooler than repair it. I would also like the extra performance from a tuner like the MiniMaxx. I do prefer the stock exhaust and not real excited about the drone/smell that comes with deleted DPF.
Will I have issues if it's tuned with the EGR blocked off, and stock exhaust? Or am I better off doing a full delete at this point?
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After installing the Sinister Diesel EGR Cooler, a new stock turbo, new EGR valve, and new #7 and #8 injectors, I am still getting the P0401 code. Each of those items needed to be replaced, by the way.
The motor runs fine; it just continues to throw the code. It has been to the dealer, and they can't figure it out. Is there a diagnostic procedure I can follow to hunt this elusive problem down?
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I am experiencing leaking cooler lines at the turbo. I thought it was only the line coming from the side of the turbo, but it looks like it could be the one going into the top. Can I safely remove the line from the front of the engine without interfering with the other metal lines directly in front of it. See the pic. This is the front of the engine under the turbo.
Also, the fitting in the pictures is not leaking. Can I replace the metal line without replacing the threaded connector going into the engine or does it have to be replaced with the line? I already have parts BC3Z-6A968-C and BC3Z-9U469-A for the line coming out of the side. What is the part #s for the other line pictured?
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Near the end of a 5 hour drive on Christmas day my check engine light came on. I read the code: P0401. I got it into the dealer this week and was told it was a blocked EGR cooler. The truck has 66k miles. Lucky for me, I have the extended warranty! They replaced a "tube assembly". I sure hope this is not something that is going to repeat. I would hate to pay for this repair in the future. They had the truck 2 days. Is this a common problem or am I just "lucky"?
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The truck in question is a 2004 6.0L Excursion, stock original turbo, no tunes, and EGR cooler delete done 1 year ago. Scanned for codes and none were found except for EGR insufficient flow P0401 code which is due to the EGR cooler delete.
Upon startup (no issues there) the VGT reads 67-70, now once the truck goes to high idle to warm up (1150 or so RPM) the VGT slowing climbs to 85 and stays there. If I blimp the throttle or step on the brake it goes back to 67-70 at normal idle. This has been happening for a few months now on a regular basis. I have checked the MAP, BARO, and EBP readings at KOEO and they are all within 0.6 of each other (14.4-15.0). The EBP tube was checked and cleaned (no buildup present)..
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2005 PSD Ex. 4x4.
Drove it a few nights ago and it felt really gutless. Next morning, no start. Well, it tried, but it sounded like it was run out of fuel (had half a tank)and I turned it off. Changed both fuel filters, key on / key off to purge system about 2 dozen times. Still no start.
I have all eight injectors with "injector Circuit Low" code, a P0401 - Exhaust Gas ReCir Flow Insufficient Detected, and P0672 - Glow Plug #2 (which it has had for a few months).
I thought with all of the injectors, it might be the FICM, checked the FICM voltage with Torque during a start and it showed 47V the whole time.
Harness? I did not think running with the glow plug error would be a big deal especially during the summer in So Cal.
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I just picked up a 2011 Ford F350 about 8 months ago. I have had troubles with the check engine light coming and going. Now it's been on for good with loss of power. I have had the codes read and they came up as the p0401 and a code about the def heater. I can not remember that code off the top of my head. After some searching I have found a video about the def heater but nothing about the Egr cooler/valve. Is there anything out there about how to clean and remove the the cooler as I will be needing to do repairs myself as the truck has no warranty.
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I have the later model 2004 F250 6.0 (built May 2004). I have owned it since new. It has 157K miles.
My newest problem comes after I did oil cooler work. I know everyone points to the IPR and/or ICP, but my readings seem strange to me.
About three weeks ago I replaced the oil cooler with a Bulletproof remote unit that uses the factory oil cooler. During the job I removed and installed a new Ford IPR sensor and added the improved screen to it. I removed and installed new Ford water/oil temp sensors, a Ford low oil pressure sensor, and a Ford ICP sensor (in the pax valve cover). I also installed the improved turbo feed line and turbo drain tube. I rebuilt the oil filter/fuel housing and installed new o-rings and the blue spring. I have the dual alternator set-up and had been running the lower alternator unplugged for the last several years. (I know I know). So I swapped in a reman alternator.
I managed start-up after running batteries dead a few times. During the drive I felt idle speed jump up by itself a few times while at low RPM. I felt an unusual skip or two in the motor but the power seemed ok. I accelerated and the truck pulled fine. At highway speed I heard what sounded like the engine hitting a high rev and trying to cut out, but it was very mild. I noticed this first at 2000rpm, but it may have not been pronounced enough for me to notice it at lower RPM. When the cut-out occurred strongest I slammed the throttle down to see if the problem would worsen, but the truck accelerated well with no cut-out, but when I eased off the throttle at higher RPM the cutting out returned. My Banks IQ showed P2284.
I installed 2 new batteries and replaced the ICP pigtail and soldiered it. That had no effect. I put the old ICP sensor back in. That had no effect. I borrowed a Snap-on Solus Edge scanner to test the truck. I would add that the truck starts up as quick as it has always started; 3-5 seconds.
Scanner results:
Key-on, engine off, ICP (voltage) reads .25, IPR reads 15.
During the crank sequence (before engine start), on a freeze frame, RPM is 157, ICP(voltage) reads 1.04, IPR reads 21, ICP pressure reads 768.8 psi. That seemed kinda normal.
Engine running at idle RPM, I read ICP (voltage) 1.2, IPR 15, ICP pressure 863.1psi. That seemed okay.
I drove the truck with a cleared code and noted that something occurred to change my readings. Before the change while driving under a short heavy acceleration to 54mph, I noted these readings: 3533rpm, ICP (voltage) 3.77, IPR 60, ICP pressure 3400.1. I eased off the throttle, stopped the truck, and noted an uncommanded REV-up by a few hundred RPM and back to idle. It was a quick burp. Afterwards ICP pressure and IPR readings went strange and the code 2284 came up. Looking at the graphs over time, RPM, ICP pressure, ICP voltage, and IPR all follow a similar curve---until the REV-up occurred.
The scanner next showed that as I mildly accelerated to 1705 RPM (about 15mph) graphs showed ICP voltage, ICP pressure, and IPR went up. But when I let off the throttle ICP pressure became fixed at 869.9. I continued to drive the truck.
The truck accelerated fine as it had under previous runs. The Scanner shows that although ICP pressure remains fixed, the ICP voltage climbs and falls with RPM. With RPM ranging from 630 to 1800, IPR holds at about 30. Then under a very heavy acceleration to 44mph, ICP pressure began to increase above 869.9, then followed ICP voltage upwards. ICP pressure climbed to 3479psi with an ICP voltage of 4.64. At that moment IPR read 69%. That seemed normal until I let off the throttle. Then ICP pressure drops back to exactly 869.9 which I assume is some sort of PCM-induced value.
It is during this time at higher RPMs I can hear the engine-cut-outs, but they are mild and the engine still responds to heavy acceleration. I have accelerated full throttle to 100mph and saw max boost values of 29psi (stock program). On engine shut-down and restart the problem seems to reset itself and the truck will run normally for a bit before the failure occurs.
To correct the problem I have removed the banks equipment. There was no change. I have ordered the ICP short connector that will allow me to test actual voltage on the ICP while the engine is running. I plan to soldier some wires and run the meter into the cab for testing.
The scanner reads a desired ICP pressure as well as the actual ICP pressure. When the failure occurs both the desired and actual read 869.9 at less than heavy acceleration.
The scanner also reads desired RPM as well as actual RPM. Desired RPM remains pegged at 640rpm all the time.
Also, engine running the FICM voltage in is 13.5 and voltage out was 47.5.
On the very last test run I got two new codes: P2138 and P2140. I had run the truck with my foot on the floor on that test. Is this a glitch or does this play into my problem?
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
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2012 F350 with 52,XXX miles and the P0401 keeps coming back with no degree of consistency, could be an hour later could be a week before it pops back up. just in th epast 4 days i have replaced the air filter (FOMOCO) and still same thing. there is no change in performance, just dont have that warm and fuzzy feeling since im about to head out to Colorado for 10 days with 5000 lbs of toys in tow.
btw, P0401 SAYS INSUFFICIENT PRESSURE FOR EGR
PURE STOCK, NO TUNING
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I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
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I've had my early 99 f350 7.3L for a lil while now. Starting to see few problems surfacing. while doing my weekly fluid levels found oil in coolant and after looking around found oil covering bottom of driver side engine. As far as i can see it looks like oil cooler leaking from front side.. Should i just replace oil cooler or rebuild?
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What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
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Just found out that my EGR cooler is bad. How big of a job is this/how much down time if a compatent tech is doin the job?
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I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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