In my 2007 f-250 it started with the door ajar chime that would click on then off somewhat randomly. Then it started doing it every morning on a cold start for about 20 minutes then the light and chime would click off. Now it stays on constantly. And my automatic headlights are turning on when the engine and ignition is all off and killing my battery. Where to start?
View 1 RepliesHaving issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
View 6 RepliesI don't think it is the switch. About 3 months ago towing a heavy load I smoked my Trans during that time when the transmission got over 220 the dome lights would flash and the door ajar warning would flash. I just thought it was a high temp warning. Now tranny is fixed I was towing another heavy load and it started doing it again but all temps are good. I Unhitched load and now it does it most of the time when I accelerate. It seems to do it only under load on the engine. Called ford and they said it's not a warning and they think it's a electrical short. But it only does it if I accelerate.
View 1 RepliesAnnoying key chime whenever I open my door the truck starts making a annoying chiming sound. Where the chime box is??
View 5 RepliesI just bought an Elantra Limited 2015, have 3 days with the car, it is fantastic but when i put 144km on it, the driver door ajar chime started to go off (8 ding dings) every time i open the car from the outside or inside and only when the switch is set to OFF. it does not happen in ACC or RUN, i thought it might be the lights left on alarm but it happens in whatever headlight switch position so it has nothing to do with the lights and it only happens with the driver door. is this design intent?.. Why it didn't happen before?..
View 14 RepliesMy door ajar light & bell goes on and off at random. It's also setting off the alarm when the doors are locked. What might be causing this.
View 14 RepliesI just purchased a 2000 F-250 (extended cab, extended bed); it's my first powerstroke as I owned an IDI prior to its purchase.
- How do I disable the speaker for the door ajar/seat belt/low fuel alarm? IT HAS TO GO!
- Also as a new powerstroke owner, are there any spare parts/sensors, etc. that I should keep handy, just in case? (ie. I always kept a spare glow plug relay in the IDI F250)...
Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
There's a lot to love about the new diesel trucks, but the idiot bells and chimes are driving me nuts! I don't need to be reminded that my key is in the ignition, my brake is engaged, my belt is disconnected or my truck is in reverse. How can I disable all these incredibly irritating chimes and gongs? Man, I sure miss the simple idiot features of the early 80's. They were so easy to eliminate with one wire snip... This bothers us enough to make us regret buying the truck, especially when we're running lots of short errands, because we get to go through all the chime rituals every few minutes. We're not getting used to it.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
So i did this with mine but friend just bought 06 6.0. How do u shut the chime off for the seatbelt again. I know parking brake on key to on position not run. How many time do u buckle and unbuckle again?
View 14 RepliesI just reinstalled the engine and got her running. I installed a new 6.4 starter (reman) and she spins perfect. I was experiencing this same issue prior to startup and thought it was weak batteries. The key will just click the solenoid and it turn the engine over.
Quick synopsis of what I've checked:
All grounds
All cables tight
Batteries are fully charged
Power at right fender pigtail leading to solenoid when key is engaged (tomorrow I'll ck voltage at work today)
Checked starter connections
Checked continuity on the 10g wire from the fender to the starter...all good even wiggled it hoping it might have broken internally...
To me it sounds like a bad connection but I did not mess with the harness (firewall) aside from bungeeing out of the way vertically. I can hook up a charger and she will crank with the key. I can disconnect the fender 10g and crank it from the battery with no issues.
I've quadruple checked for loose connections. Didn't have this issue before so not sure what happened. Relay sticking maybe?
So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
2006 F-250 6.0l,Auto, 175,xxx mi
When I turn the key to on, I hear the vacuum pump cycle (passenger side fender), but don't hear the glow plugs or injectors cycle. Glow plug light comes on and stays on for 30secs. Wrench light comes on initially, but goes off after 3 secs, but then comes back on after about 8-10 seconds. When the wrench light comes on, I hear a click under the dash and my cab lights go off.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. If I jump the starter, engine turns over, but doesn't start. I have check numerous fuses, disconnected the fan clutch, tried moving the shifting lever to neutral, wiggled wires around the FICM/PCM/GPCM with no success.
I tried checking for DTC codes, but my scanner (300 reader) doesn't get any power. I have checked my light, it has power.
Twice before, the truck failed to start like this, but after removing & inspecting fuses/relays (all were good), it started back up. Also, occasionally the truck would stall, (just like someone turned the key off), but would start right backup. But when it stalled, the glow plug light would illuminate for a second,then go off.
Own truck for 8 months, replaced the batteries & injectors 6 months ago. Very light puff of smoke when starting up otherwise ran well when shut off.
How to proceed? My first diesel so I may need some extra details.
Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
I have no wipers or windshield washer. when I turn on the wipers I can hear a click in the cowl at the wiper motor. fuses are good #106 30amp fuse and #33 15 amp fuse. I have 12volts at the wiring on the motor left side with key on and 4.5 volts on the green wire with key off. I replaced the wiper motor and same thing, just clicks when I try wipers. I connected a jumper wire to the ground and no luck.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2013 that randomly stutters or cuts out for a second while accelerating. This happens whether I am slowly accelerating or full throttle. This used to happen once every few months but it is happening more frequently now. It will randomly happen while trying to accelerate on the freeway. The truck feels like it stalls, then takes off. It feels like it loses boost pressure so maybe a wastegate issue or possibly an EGR valve issue. No codes are set.
View 14 Replies2003 6.0. Really, really hard or no start in winter. Started it up today and it misses until warmed up. That sounds like injectors.
The next issue is it stalls randomly they say. I tested FICM with a volt meter and it's constantly just a hair above 48 volts. Key on, cranking, running, doesn't matter. It's a 7 screw FICM in an 03 so I'm guessing it's been replaced. It also has 3 zip ties around the back half of the FICM. I'm not sure if it's holding the FICM in place, or holding a connector on the back.
Today after testing the FICM and starting it, and getting it warmed up, we let it idle around 30 minutes. It stalled like the key was shut off. When this happened, it would not restart for about 1 hour. It would crank and spin over fine, but you could tell it was just the engine spinning over and the injectors were not trying to fire. When it finally did start an hour later, it took some cranking and you could hear it trying to fire like the HPOP was empty and building up pressure before it lit off.
No CEL and oil pressure gauge on dash moved up to the middle while cranking. I'll put the scanner on it next time I'm there and watch live data during the no start condition. What all to monitor while cranking or where to look in case this isn't an unheard of 6.0 issue.
While i am pulling a loaded trailer we have been experiencing a random Chug that only last about 1 second we have no lose of power during when it happens. We Recently just replaced all fuel Filters. We have an updated EGR on it with a cold air intake and muffler delete. It has about 180000 miles on it it runs awesome and starts right up just trying to figure what this problem could be..
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