Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Difference Between Injector Harness?
Apr 7, 2015
Is there a difference between the two harness #'s here besides the first number:
3C3z9d930aa
4C3z9d930aa
Are they the same part? Is one for a different model truck than the other?
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Will a 05 injector harness work on a early 04?
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
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With all things equal, i.e., 18" tires & 3.31 gears, is there a difference in MPG between the 250 & 350? I guess if there is any weight difference at all there will be, but is it significant? One MPG?
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Looking at another 6.0. It's an 2005 with 156k. When test driving it on the scan gauge water temp stayed around 160 and don't believe it ever went above 170 if it even made that. Bad t-stat? Or a more significant issue? The other issue I seen that concerned me, is cruising at 65 for 10 minutes plus to check deltas their was up to a 20 degree difference so I'm thinking plugged oil cooler and bad egr cooler. Temps were 190 eot and maybe 170 ECT. Wasn't sure if the water temp issue affected the results on this reading or not.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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Need to know the Ford part number for cab light wiring harness? I am wanting to install some LED cab lights but I do not currently have any so I will need the wiring harness.
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I've got an injector #7 misfire, so it looks like I'll be replacing my first stick since the warranty expired.
Does the injector from Ford come with the copper crush washer? Will I need to buy anything else except for the oring kit?
where is injector 7? edit: it looks like number 7 is the farthest back on the passenger side. Great! I get to do the hard side.
AE pics below. I've never understood the Power Balance test, it most always looks the same. Seems to me something should look odd with #7, but I'm just not seeing it. As I shut down each cylinder one at a time, all made the engine run noticeably rougher, except it was only a subtle difference when shutting down #7. So that plus the code pointing at #7 lead me to believe that #7 is my culprit.
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Is it possible to add the decent control if my truck didn't come with it? Is the harness already wired for it and the computer programmed for it or would I have to get it reprogrammed and get a new harness?
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
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My 2005 F-250 does not have power when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up then it seems fine. I believe that the fuel injectors need replacement. I was told that one cannot get new injectors. They are all re-manufactured. Is this correct?
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I may have to replace fuel injector #8 on my 2004 6.0. Aside from doing brakes and rotors, I don't have any experience working on my truck.
Side note- this is the second injector to go bad in the past few months. Ford also wanted to replace the HFCM, so I'll be doing that as well.
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What the size of the internal oring is? So far I have had no luck finding the size. I'm looking for the lower housing to body oring.
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My 6.0 keeps trying starts on a regular bases. I was told it was a week injector by mechanic so we replaced that one and bought a new starter. Within 2 days it had fried that one also. We did check batteries and they tested good even put them in another dismal and drive them for a week. Mechanic told us we need to put another injector in it. But I don't see how a injector can fry the starter.
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I have a 2004 F250 early build over 260K miles on it. After taking a trip out west Texas and back I noticed my truck starts to jerk a lot around the 50 to 60 mph range under moderate throttle. Getting a contribution code on #6. FICM voltage stays over 47v during KOEO and startup. Took an inferred thermometer and even after truck is at operating temp #6 is reading about 3 degrees cooler then the others.
When cranking the engine everything sounds smooth but startups are getting harder. Usually let it idle for a few minutes before taking off on cold start but I am having to let it warm up longer before I can get any power. Did a bubble test and passed and oil level hasnt changed. Fuel mileage has been sucking bad also. Safe to assume the injector is shot and needs replaced? Use Delo 5W-40 Syn every change with motorcraft filters.
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Have a 2010 Lariat crew cab and I just bought an upfitter switch set and relay harness. Found where to mount the relay block and have been able to get the switch panel installed in its home. For the life of me though I cannot find the plug in the main harnes under the dash to plug the relay harness into to power everything up. I've read several threads here and even found the drawings that indicate plug #C215 in a diagram for the 2011+ trucks. When I get access panel out and look underneath the dash where it should be....no spare or open plug. Is the plug location diferent in 2010 from the 2011?
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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Could a leaking passenger side glow plug harness cause a "hot no start?
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