I brought my truck to ford because I thought I was having transmission issues, but they are telling me that my transmission is fine, that I need to replace my number 8 injector. None of these symptoms sound like injector issues:
-Shifting from park to reverse, takes a couple seconds to shift, then jumps.
-Coming to a very slow stop, truck is a little jumpy at around 2-3 mph
This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
After running perfectly fine all day my truck will seem to bog down and when I press the accelerator the reaction is extremely delayed and tons of black smoke will come out of the tail pipe before the truck actually gains power and takes off. The check engine light has been coming on but will turn itself off after the truck has been shutdown a few times....
View 10 RepliesI have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
I've noticed it takes my truck much longer to start recently. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries, just changed both fuel filters and my truck still takes a good 10 seconds or more of spinning over to fire. Is this normal? I don't remember my truck doing this before, it usually fired right up even in winter. Could this be an injector or glow plug issue?
View 13 RepliesWhen I'm at 60 mph and go full throttle, it doesn't seem to down shift enough and the torque seems low. But when I go 1/2-3/4 throttle, I get the power I'm looking for. I'll test it later today and see what gear it shifts to with both.
View 4 RepliesThis problem is similar to the sensation of warped brake rotors when braking but this is not a braking issue. You feel it in the seat and its a vertical sensation versus a horizontal. Sometimes it will present minimally when releasing the brake from a dead stop. it is not a speed dependent issue. Mostly I feel it when letting off the pedal and coasting. It is not localized to the front or rear axle but seems rather to be throughout the whole truck driveline...
View 12 Replies2003 F250 6.0 ESOF - 4x4 and LOW lights on, TC not shifting
About the truck: 2003 F250 CCLB 6.0L 210k Miles
Heavy Duty Bulletproof Diesel Kit
Warn Front Manual Hubs (vac lines clamped/blocked)
Transfer Case Shift Motor/TCSM is off (I personally have not tested it and am still looking for what to test on it) or I will purchase a new one.
From seller: "What happened is, I accidently put it in 4x4 and when I turned the switch it would not go out. I had to limp it home slowly. When I got home I messed around with it, and could not get it to go back into 2x4. I removed the shift motor, and tested it. It tested ok. I shifted to back to 2x4 with a wrench and left it."
CURRENTLY the TCSM is off the transfer case and is in 2WD. Warn hubs are set to "FREE," seller also noted that this is how he has been driving it for quite sometime. TCSM is in 4x4 LOW, that is what I have to manually shift the transfer case to if I want to mount it up. I have been shifting it using a 14mm open end wrench and with the transmission in neutral. I have not tried turning the TCSM position manually.
Scanning using AE brings up different codes depending on transmission position and which scan is used:
P1812 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Circuit Failure
P1819 Transmission Neutral Safety Switch Short Circuit To Ground
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1876 Transfer Case 2 Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1865 Transfer Case Contact Plate Power Short to Ground
AE scanning for DTCs: P1832 and P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in PARK: P1812, P1832, P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in NEUTRAL: P1812, P1819, P1876
AE scanning with TCSM off: P1865, P1832, P1876
P1865 seems to be solved by simply installing the TCSM.
AE Live Data shows correct indicators for 4WD switch, showing corresponding drive mode in AE as the switch setting but nothing happens. No clunk/thud/movement. I have tried resetting the codes but the 4x4 and LOW lights both stay on. I tried it in park, neutral, engine off and engine on. I tried driving 5-10 mph to relieve any driveline wind up, I tried driving in reverse with front hubs free and locked, gave the same results in AE and no transfer case shifting.
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I
Found a thread with some fuses to check, I have checked fuses #19, 27, 31, 33, 34, 45 and 111 (with a multimeter for continuity),
Relays (first swapping the old ones, then trying new ones), I did the pinpoints from test I, and installed another GEM (same part number as mine but from a 2005 F-350)
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I led to my purchase of a used GEM, not knowing if it is good or bad, I have determined that I get the exact same codes for each AE Scan as the GEM that came with my truck.
I included a photo of my relay box, have any of you seen this type before? There is no other box in the engine bay with twin relays.
Air/Defrost switch works and routes air to switch setting. AC works, DEFROST works.
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
I want to avoid taking this to the dealer if their own service manual and diagnosis is going to have the same results as my testing.
Where do I go from here?
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
Trans has new solenoids in the trans but is shifting too firm sometimes from 1-2 or 2-3.. It is tolerable going up, but when slowing down it jerks really bad from 2-1. Sounds and feels horrible for the trans and miserable during stop and go traffic. Ive had to switch it to Manual and start off in 2nd gear. Im deleted, with intake, and a custom sct x4 tune. My main question is there any way a new tune could have better shift points?
View 14 RepliesSo I took the wife to the pumpkin farm today, and was we were pulling into the grass/mud parking lot, my tires just started spinning. I stopped because I wasn't going anywhere and I turned my truck to go into 4x4(SOTF) and it made this LOUD clunk and then went into 4x4. Everything is ok and I tried it 4-5 after that to see if it would keep making that noise and it did not.
View 14 Repliesi bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
I was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
View 5 RepliesIn my 2011 F-250, 6.7, auto....it seems that at certain times went the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd and I pause with acceleration, for some reason the tranny seems to go into a slip mode and then slams into 3rd. Now I read about 8 months ago that there was a computer upgrade via Ford. Which they did when I was having some work done on the truck at the dealership.
View 14 RepliesJust bought 2 new F-350 with 6.7s for a service truck and feed truck. I have a 2011 6.7 so pretty familiar with it. I noticed both these new trucks shift at a lot lower RPMs. At times if going from pasture to pasture I have noticed the tach at 900 rpm in 6th gear. My 2011 doesn't do that, it shifts at a higher rpm. Both of the trucks have been deleted, and I have a SCTx4 tuner in each truck and have both tuned to the lowest setting, Tow 40HP. Is this a fuel economy thing?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 6.0L with 76,000 miles on it. And it just started to shift softer then normal under light throttle. The first to second to third shift are softer then normal. And the third to fifth gear shift seems to have a lot of what I would call overlap and some times it feels like it is slipping. Gets better under hard acceleration but not as firm as it used to be. I have always changed the trans fluid and filter every 25,000 miles. Trans temp runs about 150 to 160deg. I checked the fluid today and it's bright red and does not smell bad. And I don't have any coeds. Could it be a solenoid going bad ?
View 9 RepliesTransmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
View 4 RepliesMy truck just started to have issues with the gear shift. The gear shift seems very loose now and it is having trouble getting back into the park position. Is this a larger transmission issue, or is possibly a failing part on the actual shift mechanism?
View 3 Replies Hauled my last 2 cord of wood for the season, and I now have a pretty good 3-5 slip in and an intermittent bang/clunk when its shifting. So I've put this off for a long while now, and I want to fix it. I've done my research, and I don't really feel like I'm any further ahead than before I did my research.
I'm looking for recommendation's on what transmission and or kit is the best for my truck. I pull my 5er 10-15 times a year mostly up and down the east coast. We are looking to get a new 5er with a bunk house, my goal is to stay in the same weight neighborhood, I run 13-13,500 now depending on where we are going. The goal is to be able to get maybe another 3-5 years of use from the truck, maybe more, and then upgrade to a newer truck. So let me hear what you all recommend as I'm going crazy and probably over researching what I'm gonna do...as usual.
For those of you tuned and deleted......intermittent transmission shifting stutter is gone now? Mine sure is. Never once since the mods have I had that annoying stutter when the truck is cold and I'm easy on throttle between 2nd and 3rd gears. What a relief it is to have it shift NORMAL ALL THE TIME!!! Stutter no more after H&S Tune and Delete, for about two months now.
View 9 RepliesAfter my recent cooling system upgrade and power steering pump/HP hose replacement I am still hearing and feeling the power steering whine. I flushed the fluid and used Mercon V ATF fluid. I jacked the front end up with tires off the ground and cycled the steering lock to lock 100 times or more now and the whine does not stop. Do I need to put a vacuum on the system and try to purge it that way? There was no whine before but I just replaced the pump while I had room with everything out of the way and replaced the high pressure line because the fitting was leaking at the pump. This is very irritating because I thought replacing the pump would be beneficial.
View 2 RepliesSo I am not sure exactly what is going on with my truck. It is a 2004 F250 has a 6.0 L. Sometimes when I take off from a stop the truck has no power and blows some black smoke. Then the turbo kicks in and all is fine. It comes and goes when it pleases no matter the temperature. What started happening is when I drive it a steady pace on the highway sometimes the turbo gets quieter and louder and quieter and louder sometimes when it gets quieter I see a little bit of black coming out of the tailpipe. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Also sometimes when I let off the gas the truck sounds like it's trying to laugh at me like a wastegate is fluttering.
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