Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Dead Pedal / Truck Went To Idle And Would Not Respond
Apr 24, 2013
Had 3 separate episodes dead pedal on my 04 bone stock 6.0. About a week ago I pulled out on the road and the truck went to idle and would not respond no matter how much throttle I gave. After about 10 seconds it woke up and took off. Had this happen 2 more times this afternoon.
No codes or dash lights.... What this might be? I have a 500 mile road trip this weekend and am worried about being stranded on the side of the road.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
View 1 Replies
Recently I have been experiencing dead pedal every now and again, but it eventually comes back. Its happened on the interstate a couple of times and that can get pretty dangerous. Now I am having issues with a no start condition out of no where. It will eventually crank but it churns and churns for a VERY long time, like 15- 30 mins before it will fire again. This has happened twice now. Here are the codes I pulled from Torque:
P0263
P0281
P0299
P0528
Where this is all coming from? I thought at first bad TPS on the adjustable pedals, but now with the no start condition, could it be fuel pump related? Yesterday I was at the dump and it was idling, then got real erratic and shut down. Then wouldn't start for 20 minutes.
View 14 Replies
Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
View 1 Replies
Does the 2015 F350 have the dead pedal on the left drivers side? The one they used to put in to rest your foot on?
View 13 Replies
Have 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
View 14 Replies
My truck when idling kind of spools up a little bit for a few seconds and then the turbo goes back down. sounds really cool actually. its been doing it since the truck was new, sounds like a plane engine shutting down. It does it over and over sometimes. I just deleted the dpf and unplugged egr last night and now i can really hear it! is this normal....
View 10 Replies
So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
View 14 Replies
I have a friend with a 2012 F250. The truck has 100K miles and it does idle for extended periods. The other day his check engine light comes on so he took it the shop. They had not told him anything yet, but they did tell him that he had about a gallon to much oil. They said it was fuel.
View 7 Replies
So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
View 12 Replies
Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
View 14 Replies
My batteries go dead over night, had them checked but they say there good, can't figure out what's causing them to die.
View 8 Replies
I had a crank no start with very low hpo pressure. I went to do an air test and could not get my IPR valve to do anything with 12 volts applied. I have a switch wired to it, and went as far as wiring the IPR valve directly to the battery and got nothing. This is a brand new ipr valve, never seen a mile of driving, and I'm wondering if my luck could really be bad enough to get a bad one in the box, or if it could be my truck that's frying them. I have cranked on it a lot trying to start, but I have a feeling this IPR is to blame. I'm on my way to get a warranty replacement now. If my truck could frying them, would that be just a bad ground or what? Any way to test my wiring? I have a multimeter...
View 14 Replies
July 11, 2013 replaced HPOP. June 26, 2014, Going down I20 in Dallas engine shuts off. Three days later Ford techs declare said HPOP dead . Looking at another HPOP along with stand pipes and dummy plug seals. Hopefully I can get some warranty relief on the pump. Do these things eat HPOP?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
View 13 Replies
Here are the basics:
1. Suppose I come to a dead stop or a rolling stop and I continue keeping a small or very small amount of pressure on the accelerator. When I try to start again gently, there are two outcomes: (a) the "hesitation" or "no or dead throttle response," when I had added only a small amount of pressure, or (b) a "lurch" when I add more pressure to counter act the hesitation!
2. On the other hand, if I come to a stop or a partial/rolling stop, and remove all pressure from the accelerator before I start again, it seems I can start from a stop normally, both gently and under control. I have been experimenting by being certain there is no accelerator pedal at all prior to any start from dead or nearly a dead stop. That isn't, however, a fail-safe approach because of various driving conditions.
But, even if that provides a partial remedy, there is still a problem because this isn't the way the accelerator should work. It should not take all that learning, adjustment, and counter-measures to drive safely.
I certainly agree with the another poster: either of the two results of this: the "hesitation," and/or the sudden "lurch," could put the truck in a dangerous situation. I already have experienced this near chaos a couple of times.
So, is this problem continuing to appear on 6.7 2011 Fords, and, if anyone has a 2012---has this problem appeared on the most recently built Fords?
View 14 Replies
I have had my truck for 13k miles and have been working through all the to-do items. Monday my FICM went dead, I got a replacement with 2 new batteries (ALT was ok 140 amp). Today I pulled the EGR valve for cleaning and noticed it was very moist but pretty clean. I looked down inside the intake and notice it was oily/wet. Is this a leaking EGR cooler issue or could the FICM going bad have something to do with it as well?
View 5 Replies
2004 6.0 lariat ... The compass on my overhead console has gone dead or at least doesn't show anything other than sometimes calibrating ... All other functions miles to empty etc work fine just the compass feature ...
View 2 Replies
Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 Replies
Don't have a clue what's happening here or where to begin looking but about 20 seconds after cranking the truck ALL my instrument panel gauges go dead, radio goes dead (nothing on it's display) and my driver door controls all stop working simultaneously. Funny thing though, I can still see what the computer sees with my edge insight that's plugged into my OBD2 port and all those read as normal. The engine still runs and I can drive with no issues. My headlights still work fine as do all my signals.
View 4 Replies
I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
View 14 Replies
