My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
View 4 RepliesStarts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
View 6 RepliesTruck starts great, and runs and idles fine until it warms up. This could be 15-20 minutes of driving or idling. Then it just dies. Like dead dies, lose power steering, everything (ac and lights still work, but no engine). It had died while idling, it has dies while cruising at 45mph. Then it will crank but no start. After about a 45min to an hour it will start like there was not issue, and pretty much drive the rest of the day (even after sitting) with no problem.
I installed the Adrenaline a few months ago, but the truck ran great for quite a while before this problem occurred. I did have it shipped with a rebuilt IPR. Tonight, I rebuilt the IPR with Guzzle's kit, and stripped it all the way down. Truck died again.
I have not had my AE hooked up when it died (stupid me today). But afterward I have been getting a few codes: P1283 (IPR Control Circuit) and P1212 (ICP lower than desired Engine crank or run).
When trying to start ICP duty cycle is about 64% and pressure is 185 to 190. If I unplug the ICP sensor pressure jumps to 2000ish, truck turns over faster and ICP Duty cycle goes to about 35%.
I have a 92 chevy pick up 5.7 with 159,000 miles. The truck runs and starts great but shortly after I bought it 3 years ago it developed a sort of misfire at higher rpm's, it's fine if I drive it normally but if I try to pass someone it will downshift then fall on it's face, (spit,sputter and slow down). some times I can feather the accelerator and it will come back again. I normally don't drive the truck in the winter but this week I was forced to use it and the cold weather is seriously affecting it, it took forever to get it up to 70 mph after getting on the highway. once up to speed it will do 75 all day without an issue.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as the port for the pcv valve was plugged solid with carbon. I have not replaced the cap and rotor as they seemed to look fine. I have not checked the fuel pressure because it will break the tires loose upon take off and I don't think that would be possible if the pressure was low, would it?
I have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
2004 later year 6.0 F-350. 155,000 miles. All stock.
It will start and run fine. Drove it for an hour then began running rough. Nursed it back home. When idling it eventually died. It will eventually fire up but runs really bad. It has done this a few times. I've done fuel filters and 911 fuel treatment because thought it was gelling. No luck...
It has injector circuit fault codes that pop up. Only other code is MAF sensor low but in range. First it was codes for cylinders 3,5. Then 3,5,8. Then 1,3,5,8. Now just injector 1. Keeps changing as I refresh. Battery power fine. FICM is 47.5- 48volts and in sync. ICP at idle is 600-700psi. IPR is 25%.
We had a problem with blowing turbo pipe off so may be overboosting. Not sure. No code thrown relating to that. Possible wire chafing? Maybe bad tank of fuel? Not sure where to turn at this point.
I just got this f350 6.0l and I experienced an electrical problem with the trans gauge, started flicking a lil then go all the way up to over hit and check gauge light go on and my tow light starts blinking..
View 4 RepliesTrucks been running perfect for 11,000 miles atleast. its last issue was a bad turbo but that was my fault. No issues whatsoever since. 10 miles down the road from work last night truck had a slight miss in between 55-60 for four or five seconds, I put the pedal down and brought it up to 75 or so just to see if it was my imagination and it felt fine so i wrote it off. It ran fine to the house we're working on i wanted to check on before I got home.
Parked it, it idled down to 650 before it came back up to 750 and it never does that and sounded different then it usually does. so i felt something was definitely up. i shut it off, was at the house about a half hour before i decided to head home, started and ran fine, three miles down the road the slight miss came back, it seemed to go away if i got on it pretty good and when i let off but just cruising with slight throttle it had the slight miss.
Got to my road where i had to slow down and turn and it idled down and died. I coasted over, unplugged the icp sensor and it cranked for 10 seconds or so and lazily came back to life. I got it home running decent and parked it. Scanned it with my old super chips tuner and it came up with a p0340 camshaft position code.
Matched my symptoms i felt so this morning i decided id go back to work and grab my spare out of my wrecked truck. truck started and idled perfect. made it to the end of my driveway before the miss came back and then it just died. took the car to work, grabbed my spare camshaft sensor and my maximus scanner, came home scanned it, no returning p0340 cam code but i swapped the camshaft sensor anyway and watched icp and ipr data, the ipr voltage is where it should be and rises while cranking while cranking.
ICP is climbing to almost 3,200 psi and it will begin to run when it peaks out. she'll fire for 45 seconds after 25 seconds of cranking or so and then it'll just die. if it sits for a few minutes it takes a few seconds of cranking before ICP will come off of 0. I've come to the conclusion that it is making high pressure oil it is just dumping it as fast as it can make it. I changed the ipr out because that can do it, it didn't change anything so I'm on to believing an injector is dumping it as fast as possible.
Is it possible for something to come undone inside the injector to make it dump high pressure oil or will a bad o ring cause this? i'm leaning towards a failing injector as when it does fire and run its definitely misfiring and i just put new o rings on them when i swapped them over from my wrecked truck but that was like 45,000 miles ago as well..
I had new glow plugs installed 3 weeks ago. Ran fine since. Today, first cold day. No start, oil pressure gauge does not move off zero, interceptor reads ICP 126. Oil level is good. WTS light does come on. Checked fuse 19 as I saw on another thread, it is good.
P1670 and 0381. My ford software is down, trying to reinstall. As soon as it is reinstalled, I can go thru the step process?
I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
View 8 RepliesSo I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
View 14 RepliesI had a no-start, replaced standpipes and dummy plugs. Passenger side dummy plug o-ring was shot, some of the others were pretty worn. Polished the spool valves and replaced injector seals. Confidently put it back together and fired it up. Idled sweet, bad low on power, especially at low rpm. FMP was bumping 45 so sent it to ED. It seemed a little better but not fixed. No visible smoke. Engine temp doesn't seem to make a big difference but it may be slightly better warm. Fuel consumption is hovering around 9mpg over the last 150mi. FPW stays around 800us warm/5.8ms cold. I think the low mpg is the excessive throttle needed to pull away from stops and climb hills.
I spent the day checking stuff and found the following.
The only codes are for a couple of glow plugs and a "key in ignition" error. No contribution codes. Monitored (with FORScan) the turbo (MAP, Baro, EBP, VGT), FICM, TPS, ICP/IPR(cold and warm) EGR, vRef, MAF vs TPS, and some other stuff like miss fire count (0), voltages everywhere I could look, and FPW. I saved a dozen files while checking this stuff and can be more specific on the numbers. Fresh fuel filters, No bubble in upper filter housing while cranking. Fuel pressure was 64 at idle, 61 when power braking or revving. No leaks on CAC or exhaust.
Possible culprits : Could I have done something to cause low power when I cleaned up the injectors? I'm sure the orientation of the spools and coils were right but I did "fudge" on the torque for the coil screws. If anything they may be a bit loose as I read a couple of times over tightening would cause problems. I am certain there is no play and a slight amount of load on them. I did clean the tips and bodies on a bench grinder with a gold colored wire wheel, light pressure and just a quick pass cleaned them up. Also, I ohmed the coils while they were on the bench. No shorts or opens except where there was supposed to be opens. All the coils were .5ohm except three read .6 and two read .8. Injector buzz sounds raggedy, not smooth. Any of that a issue?
Cold ICP/IPR is higher than it used to be, at 40 degrees I see 35% and 1300psi but ICP desired is 1250psi. I also noticed monitoring the TPS, rpm desired stays at 0. All three tracks measure position but one shows a constant .25v while the other two vary. Throttle position fault stays at "no" at all times. When it was a warm no-start (at the beginning of all this) I cranked it for maybe a minute total. ICP never went above 300psi so I knew why it wasn't starting. It was cranking normally in the beginning but part way through the second try RPM's went up suddenly as if it got easier to turn. When I started the truck the next day it limped home in this "low power" mode and even though it starts righ up now and idles smooth cold, the power issue remains. I plan to get a better set-up and recheck fuel pressure at WOT tomorrow.
My truck started fine my truck was running good. One morning while working from a hotel I went to start it in the morning and it started and stalled more than a few times but eventually ran fine later it did the same thing. The next morning it would not crank at all. I deduced it was the ficm and ordered a replacement the dash was acting funny and tach dropped before it died. I ran the. Test on the dash it swooped the gauges acted fine. I checked and wiggled sensors wires. I also checked were a splice at the crank sensor was it looked good then I bought a meter and the ficm seemed to have the correct volts it was a upgrade. Had 57volts at 1 screw koeo and while cranking.
PCM and replacing the crank and cam sensors. I don't really think it is the harness it will now crank and shut off crank and shut off like it did at first. He said it's stalling because it looses ficm sink. I haven't put new ficm on it ...the harness was allot better than the first. Could the crank sensor splice be wrong it is done its soldered together and heat shrink ... is it the ficm or the dash. I'm out of my comfort level I was also reading it only needs ficm sink to start. Not run. In addition #2 injector is throwing a code. I asked him if he thought the fuel was getting pressurized and his reply was the fuel has nothing to do with ficm sink. Also, I swapped relay out with my other 6.0. And its running fine This is everything I got ....
So what is this wire that runs down by the engine? When doing my a/c evaporator I noticed it is melted by the exhaust and nearly seperated.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2012 6.7 4x4,CC,SB, truck seems to run fine, I've only had the truck for a few months. The other day I laid into it and pulled hard, as I passed 3/4 throttle the truck backed off and didn't pull as hard. I backed off from full throttle back to 3/4 and it picked back up again.
Seems odd, I pulled a 1600 gallon water tank up a hill today and experienced the same thing again. I really don't understand why it would do this. I searched this and found one forum where several people experienced the same thing but no solution, all on stock trucks. I have a Spartan tuner an delete, I run the 80hp tune. Also when I got the truck I changed the oil, fuel filters, and air filter.
Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
'03 6.0 Powerstroke. Rough idle AFTER it warms up. Runs fine cold. It seems to studder and miss at mid range acceleration. Egr deleted and new oil cooler installed. New lift pump. Replaced ICP sensor. Have 48.5 volts at the FICM. Replaced the fuel pressure spring to the blue one. All new filters. Does not smoke. Does not throw codes. I need to fix this truck one last time. It has a date with the bottem of a very deep lake! It has been nothing but a pos since it hit the ripe old age of 25k miles!
View 14 RepliesAnother thread on here about Time for Batteries got me to thinking about mine and whether I should change them based upon time.
They have been in the truck 4 years and 6 months or so. I was reading some older threads recommending changing around the 3 year mark to prevent damage to the FICM.
I don't drive the truck everyday and sometimes it sits for 3 weeks or so. I noticed 2 days ago when I took it to work, I got one of the slowest cranks I've ever gotten. But after it's started and the glow plugs turn off, I get ~ 14.1 - 13.4 or so volts.
FICM voltage never drops below 47 and usually runs between 47.5 and 48.5 volts.
I'm not sure what size alternator is on there. Plus it's a single. I also have the upgraded cables that Mr. Jack recommended for extra battery life. I guess it's time for batteries though?
My Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
I have a 2003 f350 6.0 and did head studs with the egr delete and Warren diesel Injectors 155cc. I have both warrens tunning and loney wild tunes.
In all the tunes when i first start the truck up after sitting for a while it will rev real high. Like when i was a kid and tried to impress someone and catch the motor as soon as it fired up and rev it real quick. I mean it sounds cool but i don't want it to do it for obvious reasons. It also gets out of control when you are driving it down the road until its warmed up. If you just try and drive it normal it will start to take off once it gets around 1500 rpms unless you really feather the peddle. Its almost as if its getting to much fuel but it does it with both tunes.
In the tow mode the truck tows like crap. I can literally have the peddle to the floor and it struggles to move a 10k car trailer. I really just wanted a more fuel efficient truck that had a little pep. Now i wished i had left it stock with the new studs.