Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cranks Over And Start But Sounds As If Hydro-Locking And Dies In Seconds
Sep 17, 2016
I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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Where to monitor or what to check. The past few weeks this truck all the sudden went from a quick starter(barely hit the key and it would pop off) cold and hot to one that consistently cranks for around 5 seconds before it starts. Doesn't matter if I wait for the glow plug dash light to go out when it's sat for two days or if the engine has a ECT of 198 F and was just running 5 minutes prior...it still cranks over for 5 seconds before starting. Seems like it's an electronic issue vs mechanical, but that's just a guess.
The truck runs, drives and tows excellent outside of this starting quirk...so I know I shouldn't complain but this isn't right from what it used to start like and seems like it's a warning that something is likely to fail down the road. I'd Rather find it now than when 100's of miles from home if possible.
I updated it with better dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, rebuilt FICM, 2 fresh batteries, new fuel pump, ICP sensor all within the last 10K miles. I scanned it with a code reader and found no codes in the history and the check engine light is not on.
Monitoring with a Scan Gauge all inputs seem normal for what I've read on this website with the exception of SYC it says 0? Which should mean it would never start I think but yet it does? I checked my code numbers from the list and I had it entered correct. Is this my issue a bad crank or cam position sensor?
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My truck will only stay cranked a few seconds then dies, I have a lot of codes popping up! I was told may be the FICM.
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I was hoping to have this resolved, but it seems how I have it parked affects the cold starting of this thing. Had an issue quite a while back as listed in another thread where the truck cranks and fires then immediately dies when cold. Takes at least three times to fire. Once fired it has no problems and will start easily unless it sits for almost a days time...on flat ground.
I replaced some injectors recently since they were bad and I had the truck parked facing downhill slightly when I did that. Since the repairs, the truck would start fine while parked there. Brought my trailer home and have the truck in the street on the flat ground and once again the 3 crank starts begin.
I have attached three Excel spreadsheets of my data from today. All three are the same data log just split up for size and elimination of dead time on the original spreadsheet.
So, I am guessing I have a HPOP problem, which is probably why I was getting intermittent contribution codes when the truck is up to temp. The truck fires totally fine when the oil is hot and up to temp so hot starts are no issue. Could the pump be "stuck" or just not working right when it has sat?
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I have noticed a leak coming from the hydro boost piston that goes through the fire wall on the drivers side of my F250 King Ranch 6.0L... Here's the question, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat.
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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Like usual, i have a problem that no one else has and it sounds like its something electrical/sensor/PCM related.
Every few mornings, ill go out to my truck and go to fire it up...and it'll just crank away. After i give up on cranking and shut the key off, go to try again, it fires up instantly, like nothing is wrong. Sometimes in the morning itll just have an extended crank but eventually start. Regardless...it always starts. Sometimes it cranks really strong the entire time, sometimes the crank gets weaker the longer you crank...i don't think its HPO related, but i definitely could be wrong.
Ficm voltage looks good KOEO, cranking and running. I had my batteries tested at ford a few weeks ago and they "said" they were good (motorcraft 850ccas). Alternator is strong. When cranking, ive seen the voltage drop anywhere from 10.2 to 9.4v. I never know when this is going to happen and i can't hook up AE every morning and sit and wait, but based on my scangauge, i see ICP shoot up to over 1500 as soon as it fires.
Only code I've gotten is P0148, which is fuel delivery error/engine speed higher than expected. I've gone ahead and replaced my camshaft position sensor with a ford sensor a few days ago...it hasn't done a no-start yet, but it did do an extended crank. I think my next stop is PCM replacement...
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New alternator, fairly new batteries....after sitting 5 days or more, it cranks but no start.....put on charger for four hours, it fires right up...
Voltage on the multimeter shows 12.45 on both batteries......could there be something drawing down the amps? If so how do I find it?
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2007 6.0 my dash lights will flicker when the key is turned on and the truck wil crank but won't start, but when the lights stop flickering truck starts .. How to fix the flickering dash light?
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My truck usually starts up great, but every so often it takes 3 to 4 long cranks before it will start. By long cranks I mean more than 4 or 5 seconds of turnover. Seems to be no real rhyme or reason to this. It does it engine cold or hot. I have iPhone engine monitor app and numbers seem fine. BTW it's a 2005.
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I got a 2003 6.0 powerstroke cranks but wont start once it gets hot let it sit for a couple of hours and it fires right up already replaced high pressure pump no leaks visible and when running its great will run till run till fuel runs out. what to check?
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Had extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
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Couple weeks ago fuel tank started coming apart clogged all filters. Replaced tank filters and fuel pump and blew out all of lines. Started and ran fine. Stays plugged in over night but now it'll crank but wont start. No codes showing up or anything...
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I drove the truck Sunday to 3 different places, parked it around 3:00 pm. Went to take it to work the next morning and it just cranked with no start. I pulled the codes as I have an edge insight. I got a P2614 code so I figured it was the cam sensor. We after some reading to what everyone had to say I checked to see if I had RPM when I got home and I did so that put me back to having no clue. I took as many readings as I could to see if any one might see something that I am not.
ICP psi 1280 cranking 23 key on
IPR 41% cranking 14 key on
IPW ms 0.00 cranking and key on
Fuel Pressure 63.1 cranking
ICP voltage 1.6 cranking .3 key on
Mass Air flow 8.3-10.7 cranking 0.00 key on
Engine RPM 166-205 cranking
FICM 47.0-47.5
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Went to the store came home no problems. Went out to go to work next morning truck won't start. Cranks just fine just doesn't try to run. Was not getting voltage at ficm replaced board in ficm have correct voltage now but still won't start
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I have a 2006 6.0 that i did head gaskets on about a year ago. While I was in there I put some new pistons a valves in as well. I finished doing the job and it started and ran great just smoking a little bit. Test drove it a couple of times and still seemed great but still smoking. (white smoke) about a week went by with me driving the truck then one day driving to work I parked it then all of a sudden the truck shut off like some one hit the key and wouldn't restart after that. Either doesn't work i put a ficm in it before the head gaskets went out. new HPOP before head gaskets. I get oil pressure in the dash but it takes a long time to build up. cranks like a dream but doesn't even try to fire.
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I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
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Early 2004 (IPC under turbo) 163000 miles. Injectors done last summer. Stock. Got a call that this guy died on the highway. By the time I got there (45 minutes?), it started and ran fine. He drove it for ahile, shut it down, drove it some more and it died again. I finally got it in and looked it over and test drove it. It died on me twice (Both times, I was pulled over and stopped. How lucky is that?) When it died, it showed that the Desired ICP dropped to zero just before the actual and the ICP voltage did. I wasn't watching the Regulator%. Cranking, it showed about 210 ICP and .19 ICP voltage. After it sat for maybe 10 minutes, it finally started.
Now, my question is, do I have a ICP problem or an electrical problem? My thinking is an electrical problem because to me, it doesn't seem like the oil would cool off enough in 10 minutes to allow it to become thick enough to build pressure again. I also noticed that the ICP dropped down to as low as about 590 at low idle once the oil temp was up to about 190, but it wasn't always that low - usually it was around 625ish. I have it idling right now and recording Sync now, but of course it's running fine. If my sync drops out, I need to change the Cam sensor or crank sensor, correct? If it doesn't drop out, I have a ICP problem. Does that sound right?
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This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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I'm TSing a no-start on my 2005 6.0L F250. Engine cranks fine. I've been working my way thru the TSing guide and using my new ScanGaugeII. No codes found. At glow plug warmup, (dash light goes off), I'm getting 40.5v FMP, 11.0v FLP, 14.8% ICP, and 0psi IPR. After cranking for 10-15 sec, get 35.5v, 10.0v, 84.7%, and 446psi. I've had a trickle charger on all night to keep the batteries charged. Have not seen FMP over 45 or IPR over 470.
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