Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cranked For About 15 Seconds With No Start
Nov 7, 2016
This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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My truck will only stay cranked a few seconds then dies, I have a lot of codes popping up! I was told may be the FICM.
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A lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
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Came out of the building center yesterday after about ten minutes, and the van wouldn't start. Just cranked and cranked.
So I fired up Torque Pro and the HPO only got to 156.8psi. The idiot gauge came up to where it should be.
The dipstick looks good. I unhooked the ICP sensor and still no go. Reconnected.....
So I called a tow... after It cooled down.(75*F water) I tried again and got up to 295psi, but still not enough to start.
At this point I know I have recent injectors and updated Plug& pipe on the passenger side, a new IPR, and (another) new STC fitting.
I will get the air to it, and investigate, but at this point,I am leaning towards the Dummy Plug on the drivers side. Or maybe I am just hopeful because the internet says that one can remove the VC on that side fairly easily.....(Van Body)
However I did recently(2K miles/??) have the engine apart to get at the HPOP and STC leak issue I had. In the event of a possible stuck IPR- what would be the symptoms during an air test? No change with power applied? Or should I just remove and inspect?
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My truck started and ran as it always did and about a mile it just quit. I tried to restart it and it just cranked but wont start. I bought a scangauge II and did test for the normal no start issues that Ron on you tube mentioned.
Values are as followed engine off
14.8 - IPR 0- SYC
48.0 FMP 28 - ICP - I was thinking that the ICP sensor was a newer 04 model so the values come back a little higher.
While Cranking its as follows
84.7 - IPR 1- SYC
48.0 FMP 46- ICP
Research says that I think if the IPR is bad or unplugged it could show a low value on the ICP..
Also I wanted to check both the IPR and the ICP for connection and to make sure no oil on connectors. See if the IPR screen was cracked or cut.
I have tried to find them and cant so I thought they were behind the turbo so we took that off and no i still cant find it. I have the truck apart and it got late so I have decided to take a break and come back to it tomorrow.
As I said I'm not a diesel mech but I'm pretty good with figuring things out or at least enough to get into trouble.
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Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
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I have a 2005 F550 with a 6.0. Recently I have had issues with a long crank before starting at times but once it started there were no issues driving. Yesterday it started up in the morning, made a few stops then it wouldn't start at all. Cranked strong but no start. Had it towed back, sat for an hour or two now it starts again. Put a gauge on it and all readings are good. Did have a P2285 code which the ICP sensor. I do suspect there could be an issue with the egr cooler as it needs coolant occasionally. Could that have anything to do with the no start? Truck has started fine today. Why start sometimes then not?
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About a month ago my 2005 Ford Excursion 6.0 wouldn't crank. Everything came on fine and there was no sign of a problem. when I tried to crank it nothing happened. I read about the yellow/blue wire on the passenger side and tried that. It cranked right up, and then worked fine with the key. No other problems until today. Same thing happened again. What could this be?
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Dang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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I've noticed it takes my truck much longer to start recently. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries, just changed both fuel filters and my truck still takes a good 10 seconds or more of spinning over to fire. Is this normal? I don't remember my truck doing this before, it usually fired right up even in winter. Could this be an injector or glow plug issue?
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I have my truck idling in the driveway while doing a coolant flush and it developed a weird idle. It will idle fine for a while then all of a sudden it will idle up a little for about 3 seconds then go back down. It will do this 3-4 times then go back to a regular idle for a while. I got in and watched my SCT X4 to see if anything changes. My actually RPM didn't change and neither did my fuel pressure or anything but my turbo added about 1.5 pounds of boost when it does it. It happens about every 4-5 minutes.
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My truck started fine my truck was running good. One morning while working from a hotel I went to start it in the morning and it started and stalled more than a few times but eventually ran fine later it did the same thing. The next morning it would not crank at all. I deduced it was the ficm and ordered a replacement the dash was acting funny and tach dropped before it died. I ran the. Test on the dash it swooped the gauges acted fine. I checked and wiggled sensors wires. I also checked were a splice at the crank sensor was it looked good then I bought a meter and the ficm seemed to have the correct volts it was a upgrade. Had 57volts at 1 screw koeo and while cranking.
PCM and replacing the crank and cam sensors. I don't really think it is the harness it will now crank and shut off crank and shut off like it did at first. He said it's stalling because it looses ficm sink. I haven't put new ficm on it ...the harness was allot better than the first. Could the crank sensor splice be wrong it is done its soldered together and heat shrink ... is it the ficm or the dash. I'm out of my comfort level I was also reading it only needs ficm sink to start. Not run. In addition #2 injector is throwing a code. I asked him if he thought the fuel was getting pressurized and his reply was the fuel has nothing to do with ficm sink. Also, I swapped relay out with my other 6.0. And its running fine This is everything I got ....
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Truck is bucking and missing every 10 seconds or so and will stall when taking off in drive sometimes but fires right back up? I got a lot of codes in the torque pro app but some are in grey. Not sure what that means. EGR has been deleted so that's why I got those codes. I was cleaning the back of the truck the other day and found a can of quick start . Guess that might be why i got codes for glow plugs also. I'm gonna post up pic of my codes and numbers of truck running at idle in drive. So far I see I got a code for cylinder 6 contribution? It's in grey tho whatever that means.
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This after 20 seconds of idle. I can see it squirting but can't see where it comes from?
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Popped the hood after smelling fuel and it was dripping about every 30 seconds. Before I order parts can you steer me in what it might be. Was going to do blue spring mod soon but is there more?
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Where to monitor or what to check. The past few weeks this truck all the sudden went from a quick starter(barely hit the key and it would pop off) cold and hot to one that consistently cranks for around 5 seconds before it starts. Doesn't matter if I wait for the glow plug dash light to go out when it's sat for two days or if the engine has a ECT of 198 F and was just running 5 minutes prior...it still cranks over for 5 seconds before starting. Seems like it's an electronic issue vs mechanical, but that's just a guess.
The truck runs, drives and tows excellent outside of this starting quirk...so I know I shouldn't complain but this isn't right from what it used to start like and seems like it's a warning that something is likely to fail down the road. I'd Rather find it now than when 100's of miles from home if possible.
I updated it with better dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, rebuilt FICM, 2 fresh batteries, new fuel pump, ICP sensor all within the last 10K miles. I scanned it with a code reader and found no codes in the history and the check engine light is not on.
Monitoring with a Scan Gauge all inputs seem normal for what I've read on this website with the exception of SYC it says 0? Which should mean it would never start I think but yet it does? I checked my code numbers from the list and I had it entered correct. Is this my issue a bad crank or cam position sensor?
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just got a new to me 05 f250 with the 6.0. Truck has 152k its super clean. I think there is an odd noise. That occurs every 20-40 seconds. This is my first diesel. There is no check engine light. No loss of power. No stutter.
But, there is a bump sound behind the firewall on the drivers side. And a felt bump on the throttle pedal. At first I thought it was a sub woofer behind the firewall, not really, just the feeling of the sound and vibration. Since there is no check light on I'm concerned as to what this could be if it's not a normal diesel sound/vibration.
There is no correlation with throttle position(occurs at idle and pedal depressed) RPM (I feathered the throttle attempting to elicit the sound no result). bumps in the road (bump stop,steering nothing wrong there). Does seem in the afternoon it's more prevalent. I drive about 20mi to work and around 5mi through out the day. The sound occurs approximately every 20-40 seconds.
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First off I'm new to the 6.0 powerstroke that being said, I bought a 07 f350 with 102k miles in VERY good condition and I'm planning on doing the bullet proof on it. But my question is that when I start the truck it will turn over about 5 seconds before it starts up. I've even cycled the glow plugs twice with no difference. If I shut it off after it's warm and start it right back up it'll still turn over for about 3 seconds.
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