Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Crank Pulley / Harmonic Balancer Bolts - Replacement?
May 14, 2017
I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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I have been stuck at the tail end of the head gasket job on my 97 B2300. I have been working every day, so I haven't been able to get to this until today. The harmonic balancer seems to be stuck and I can't get it off. Regular 3 jaw pullers won't work (tried 4, rented one from the parts store that didn't work either) and tapping it from the back side while rotating the engine isn't working either. The pullers keep slipping off because the of the pulley's front ridge being slightly larger in diameter than the rest of the balancer.
Is there some kind of special puller that I don't know about? I don't want to be too rough with it as it seems no one carries this particular balancer if I happen to break it. Side question..... I was told that the crank/cam seals will also work on the oil pump as they are the same size. True? I happen to have 3 seals and wouldn't mind changing the oil pump seal as a precaution. (note this is a later 2.3 with a timing belt driven oil pump)
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I have a 2000 2.5 and need to remove the harmonic balancer. Are the threads righty tighty or lefty loosey.I'm replacing the timing belt and pulley
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I'm about to change out my harmonic balancer and have been reading some sites that tell you have to put it at TDC and other sites say "no" unless your messing with the timing belt. I have a 2002 dodge neon.
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on the 3.5 how do I get the harmonic balancer off? I know that you need to use a 3 arm puller. I have a 3 arm puller but I cant seem to figure it out.
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I changed the harmonic balancer in my 93 ford tempo but the rattle came back!! Last night we tightened the bolt on it with 700 psi but it's still rattling! Could it be a bad balancer or another part that is lose? It rattles at idle and goes away while driving. It just started again the day before yesterday (I thought my husband was just looking to play with the car more) and by last night it got really loud. It's a deeper rattle then the rattle it had before we changed the balancer. Could there be something way out of balance that is causing the balancer to do this?
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I have a 2000 mountaineer 5.0 that has a chirp/squeak when its cold and goes away once warmed up good occasionally. I have replaced the belt, alternator and manually spun all the idler pullies, water pump, ac and tensioner. Nothing squeaks. Is it possible for the harmonic balancer to make this noise?
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Couple days ago, hop in the truck to go to work and belt starts squealing. Belt was old and it had been raining, so I figured it was a little wet. Turned on the defrost, and squeal gets worse. I then smell a burning. Opened the hood and saw the belt dragging on the a/c pulley, so I figure the compressor clutch is shot.
Looked at it today. I was wrong. Took off the belt and the a/c pulley spins fine. I can turn it's front hub by hand as well. I look around and see the crankshaft pulley isn't lined up. It looks like the outer pulley portion separated from the rubber. This caused the belt the jump and ride on the rubber part, cutting grooves in it.
Here's some pics:
From top driver's side:
From top passenger's side:
From bottom passenger's side:
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The MK6 GoRf seems to have a problem with the Rear Harmonic Balancer on the Driveshaft to Haladex Coupler. I will have a look under the car this weekend just to check it out. By the way, I have no driveline vibration under acceleration. Wonder if the problem is with more power/torque on the turbo engines. But we have plenty of boosted VR6 engines, and I wonder if there are problems with the part.
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I noticed I was a bit low on coolant and started looking around. Found a drip on the serpentine belt and harmonic dampener. The T-stat is dry and was replaced 1.5 yrs ago with a full flush. Both hoses are fine and there is no coolant near the steering assembly.
I am figuring it is coming from the water pump. I am planning to put in that Bulletproof water pump and Mishimoto silicon hoses. Anything else I should consider before I dive in. I'll put a new T-stat on since the coolant is drained and it is cheap $20 insurance. BTW hoses and water pump are original (7/05 build date).
Additional information - no spots on driveway (from coolant anyway) and single drop on the dampener. No mess anywhere else and I am down about 1/2 gallon - degas is almost empty.
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How to remove a harmonic balancer from a straight 8 Buick engine. There are no bolt holes on the balancer to use a standard balancer removal tool. I was able to remove the center bolt. I removed the center bolt then threaded it back in a couple of threads and tried using my hydraulic gear puller with the center of the puller on the bolt. I got it to move off about 3/16" but then it stopped. Right now I have the hydraulic puller still on under tension and am periodically spraying it with screw loose hoping it may pop off. I need to know if this will work or if I am fighting against the puller now.My 42 to 47 Buick manual does't give any info on removing the balancer.
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I have a wobbly crank pulley and I am wondering how ofter the harmonic balancer should be replaced? I have about 125000miles on my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 and I have heard this is an issue around 100000. Also wondering how much it would cost to replace?
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I can't get my exhaust manifold bolts off. They are in bad shape. The 10mm is too loose and 3/8 just rounds. I have had the torches on them too! Can the bolts be cut off with a torch?? Haven't broken any. Can't get the bolt heads to move. It's an 04, original manifolds. I am working the driver's side. I can't figure this one out. How to get this manifold off?
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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Went in today and the Service advisor said the oil pan was leaking around the edge of the pan and one of the bolts. He stated he ordered a new oil pan and referred to it as a "new design". I asked him what the "new design" was and he had no idea. Didn't know if it was a metal pan like the newer trucks or if it was another plastic one. Looking for oil pan replacment by Ford and is it the newer metal one or another plastic one ??
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I for the life of me can not even see the bolts to take them off.
2006 F350 4X4
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There are two bosses on back of hpop cover that have bolts holding heat shroud for the exhaust. How difficult are these to remove? The drivers side looks fairly accessible, but passenger side I am not too sure of. I will be back to disassembling everything in a couple of days, and just getting a heads up on it.
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07 f250 I just replaced the power steering pump. I put the serpentine belt back on and when I started my truck I now have a squeaking noise. It's driving me nuts and the more I push the pedal it gets alil louder. Now before I did the ps pump I did hear a little noise like of bearings squeaking when I put my ear to grill.... I put the old ps pump pulley on the new pump but I don't think that is it because it is pressed on. Would it be a bad idler/tension pully? Is it just a coincidence after I do ps pump that it now decides to squeak?
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I need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
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Need to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
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Got home from work this morning and noticed when I pulled in the drive and opened the door a ticking noise coming from under truck. Finally had time this evening to crawl under truck and investigate noise. It's coming from the front of the transmission where it bolts up to engine. It's a pretty much steady tick and goes away for a few seconds here and there. when you increase RPM's it's still there and I think goes away at higher RPM's, it doesn't get louder as you increase RPM's just stays the same level. Will get it to shop Monday hopefully and get this checked out and NoX sensor changed out too.
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