Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Crank / No Start - Bad FICM
May 14, 2016
2003 6.0, all stock. Crank, no start with an occasional sputter when it actually shows FICM SYNC = YES.
It had the following relevant DTCs when I scanned it:
P0261, P0270, P0276 and P0279 - Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 - Injector circuit low
P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger boost control A performance
P2614 - CMP Open circuit
P2617 - CKP Open circuit
CMP/CKP SYNC transitions to and maintains YES while cranking, however FICM SYNC transitions back and forth between YES and NO while cranking. When it transitions to YES, a cylinder or two will fire when FIPW comes up, but FICM SYNC almost immediately transitions back to NO.
Based solely on the scan tool results, Cranking shows IPR DC at about 50%, ICP PSI ~1500, ICP V ~2.0. These are stable and steady. FICM main power is at 49.5v and drops to 49.0 when it fires the occasional injector while cranking. RPM reads above 150 while cranking.
I'm thinking that since CMP/CKP SYNC stays YES and is stable and RPM reading is consistent, the CMP & CKP sensors and circuits are most likely good. I'm thinking with the codes for injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 it probably points more toward a FICM issue.
Another thing that may or may not be relevant is the pre-cycle clatter sounds off to me. With an ambient temp of about 70F, the pre-cycle seems to repeat 3 times. The second and third cycles sound worse than the first. This is in the video below.
I work on far more 7.3s than I do 6.0s, so I'm looking for anything I may have overlooked, a second/third/fourth opinion, or if there's a flaw in my logic for someone to point it out.
6.0 No Start - YouTube
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2004 6.0 Truck has been slow to start and sometimes took a few tries to get it to fire up. On monday the Truck would not start. The FICM was not getting sync. I figured it could be a bad connection to the FICM. I pulled the FICM, cleaned the contacts and reconnected it. The truck fired up. It ran all day Tuesday without incident but wednesday morning it would again not start. Again what was missing was FICM sync. This time disconnecting and plugging back in the FICM did not fix the problem. I have spent the last two days troubleshooting and am out of things to try.
The problem as it stands right now
The truck will crank but not start. Scanner says it has oil pressure, a steady 48v (FICM has new power supply). The IPR sits around 50% when cranking at 1200psi. However, the FICM will not get sync. I have worked my way down and tested both the Cam and Crank sensors from the PCM. The Crank sensor has a resistance of 360 ohms and produces a AC voltage of 500mV when cranking. The camshaft sensor produces 100mV AC when cranking (camshaft sensor was replaced as the original produced AC voltage seemed low 20mV, new sensor produces 100mV). I have tested the camshaft sensor at the sensor and at the PCM connector. This has lead me to believe both the cam and crank sensors are ok and their signals are being probably transmitted to the PCM.
I have tried to check the inputs to the FICM to confirm the signals are getting there. I was unable to find a good pin out diagram for the 2004 FICM but what I found told me the crankshaft was pin 5 and the camshaft was pin 10. When cranking, pin 5 (crankshaft) did not produce a signal and pin 10 (camshaft) had a 200mV DC signal. Despite searching I have been unable to find what the input signals to the FICM should be.
Right now I suspect bad wiring between the PCM and the FICM, or a bad PCM. This is based on having good signals to the PCM, but (what I think may be) a lack of crankshaft pos. sensor signal to the FICM. I am specifically looking for what the crank/camshaft pos. sensor signal at the FICM should be, as well as confirmation/disconfirmation on the diagnosis of bad PCM or PCM-to-FICM wiring
Truck Details
Ford F350 King Ranch 2004 6.0
Truck build date 11/18/2003
350,000 km
Studded
New FICM power supply
Stock truck; don't run any tunes
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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So after replacing all injectors, I was getting a rough idle and drive. Got an imbalance on 5 & 4. Cleared out codes and 5 still showed. The guy doing my work and I couldn't trace it to anything so we thought well maybe we got a bad one. Did fail the buzz test. So got a warranty one and put in. Wouldn't you know it's still not running quite right. Only thing we can think of is maybe the ficm is at the start of going out. Voltage reads good still though. Staying constant at 47/48. Is more noticeable to run rough when starting from cold then smooths out but you can still make out/feel an injector going in and out.
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So I am getting low FICM volts at cold start. The FICM will start at 46v and eventually drop below to 42v, but when I start to drive the truck the FICM volts go back up to 47.5, and my battery voltage goes back up to 13.8 to 14.1.
I am pretty sure my alternator is doing its job.
I left my truck sit for 2 or 3 weeks with out starting her or putting a battery tender on it, this was about two weeks ago. I have not had this problem before. Sounds to me like the batteries need a charge.
My batteries back up to full charge. I plan on letting the truck sit over night with a charger hooked to it.
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I just bought a new to me, 2005 ford f-350 6.0L turbo diesel with 220,000 miles. It has an EGR delete, and aftermarket intake and exhaust. I am having power loss issues, and cold start issues, and judging from these symptoms, I figured it was the FICM. I thought it had to be the FICM. As per the tech folder on this site, I tested the FICM. I first learned that I have one of the Bullet proof FICM's, and when I tested it (3 times) it read between 57.5 and 58V. I conducted this test three times both with just turning the key, and with the truck running. I then took the truck into Ford, and they gave me a list of all of the codes the truck threw:
P0611
p0113
p0405
p0671
p0673
p0675
p0677
p0341
I researched all of these codes, and it seems to point to the FICM, but Ford stated they pulled a reading of 54.5v. The tech then told me that the upgraded bullet proof FICM probably ruined my injectors, because my injectors we not upgraded. Is this True?
Even though my FICM is above the low limit for voltage, can it still be going out? I am taking the truck in to have the batteries load tested, so I will know if they are contributing to my FICM failing.
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My f250 was parked this winter to get work done. I had put a new exhaust on and while crawling on the engine bay it had kicked the fuel reset by the passengers kick panel. After pressing that button the truck would not start and threw FICM codes. (Power low to FICM) and my Scanguageii had said that power was very low (27 volts) during cranking. I sent the FICM to FICMrepair.com. Today I had put the FICM back into the truck and went to start it. I cycled the plugs 3 times and started on the 4th. The truck did not start after this and had thrown more ficm codes. What it could be?
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So, I've been having cold start issues for a couple of years now especially when temps get below 25 or so. It started with virtually no issues until temps got into the 20's but got to the point this year where it run a little rough at startup even in the summer. Once ECT gets up around 140* it runs pretty good.
I took it to a diesel shop last year and was told I had 1 bad injector and a bad glow plug. I couldn't afford to do the work, so I waited.
Now after researching this site, I'm more inclined to think it may just be the FICM. I've seen scangauge numbers in the low 20's up to 48.5. On cold morning FCM will usually start in the low 30's and gradually work up to upper 40's. The batteries were both replaced 2 years ago, but I probably should give them a load test. The alternator voltages vary from 11.0 to 12.5 when cold and 12.5 to 14 once warmed up. I have noticed that the AC blower will slow down a little when I sit at a red light, and then pick up again when taking off. I don't notice it with headlights or anything else.
According to Bismarc's spreadsheet, alternator numbers seem to be in the acceptable range, but I don't want to get a new FICM and fry it with a bad alternator. I can get the alternator or the FICM now, but if I need to do both at once I'll need to wait a bit longer.
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I have an early 03 F250 6.0 that won't start after I replaced all 3 FICM connectors, also # 8 injector pin and connector. It has been almost impossible to start before the repair.
I checked the grounds on
Pins #1 2 3 22 they were all .5 ohms
Pin #32 was 1.0 ohms.
Pins #7 27 were 12.7v ( battery voltage)
I have double checked all pin connections and wire colors, they are in the right holes, I haven't done any cranking voltage tests, as I am alone. The FICM has 48.2 v.
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I replaced injector couple weeks ago. I hooked up to livelink thru sct because it was throwing a low voltage for ficm code. It is staying at 48 volts tho. I don't see any voltage from my glow plug relay, and I have a low voltage for my egr valve. Is it just bad luck that everything broke at once or is there a fuse or a connector that I forgot to plug in.
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If my ficm is going bad will it cause it to jerk going down the road and spit and spudder going down the road..sounds like injector but it aint smoking at all.. I think there;s a recall for the ficm for my truck too.. f250 2004 6.0....
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My ficm has been dropping to 44v occasionally so I have ordered a 270a alternator from Ed at ficm repair along with the complete battery cable kit. I also took ends advice and bought two new odyssey 65 series batteries. I went with bpd 6phase ficm though because I like the idea of the extra phases to share the load and back up the 4 primaries. I am also doing the blue spring upgrade while under the hood as well.
So my question is this.... My truck is bone stock no mod 53k mi. The bpd ficm can be set to 48,53 or 58 v. I do not see the need to do 58v but have seen a lot of guys doing the 53v option. What is the advantage of 53v? I know if you run 220 thru a 120v light bulb it will burn bright as hell for a little bit till it blows, is this the case with running a higher voltage ficm? Will it eventually wipe out injectors? Or even the ficm processor board? Should I just stay at 48v setting?
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This is the second time this has happened to me . Truck runs fine shut it off go to re start and it's a no start. I can watch the ficm volts drop to 0 from 48.5. Then it's 0 until it decides it gets power again?
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I'm afraid my FICM is on its way out. I'm getting voltages dropping to 46.5V about once a minute. Never goes below that. Then it'll bounce up to around 48.5. It gets low when I have to rev up and always coincides with the main voltage dropping to around 12.9V.
Now for my battery condition. They are about a year old. I think I have one with a bad cell. They'll drop into the low 11V range while cranking after glow plug light goes off. While driving, the main voltage never gets below 13.1 except for very short periods ... which coincide with the 46.5V output on the FICM. Gonna have them tested separately at advanced auto and see on has a bad cell.
So, is my FICM starting to go? Second question. What do I tell the folks at Advanced Auto about replacing both an not just one? I suspect they'll want to argue about it with me.
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So, I was on a road trip to Arkansa from Missouri when my truck started loosing power and eventually just died. After I tore through some stuff, I realized the ficm was just floating around off the brackets and even better yet, missing the top cap where you voltage test. And to my great luck, there was a small coolant leak that dripped it's way right into it.. So now I'm looking at replacements and it looks like I'm going to go with the Bulletproof Diesel ficm. But my question is, can I just swap them out and go.? My truck is tuned with an SCT tuner and was tuned up when it died. Should I tune it back to stock before I put a new one in or put the new one in and then put it stock and retune it after that.? Or is it more complicated than that and I should just let my mechanic deal with it.?
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The truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
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Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
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I have a no start on my 2003 6.0. What I've discover is that I have two issues, ICP pressure is low and the FICM is not syncing. My plan of attack is to fix the sync problem first then the ICP issue. FICM main power is good holds at 47.32 during crank but it has no FICM sync, I've check the camshaft position and crankshaft position sync status and it returns a value of in sync, it also reaches a max rpm of 257 during crank. Given those two values I think the cam and crank sensors are good. I did a visual inspection on the wire harness and can find no chaffing, shorts or hard bends. I think I either have a bad PCM or FICM. How I can narrow it down to one of the two?
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Just asking where about's the ficm relay would be under the hood of my '04 6 liter, I have 3 boxes to chose from.
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I have had my truck for 13k miles and have been working through all the to-do items. Monday my FICM went dead, I got a replacement with 2 new batteries (ALT was ok 140 amp). Today I pulled the EGR valve for cleaning and noticed it was very moist but pretty clean. I looked down inside the intake and notice it was oily/wet. Is this a leaking EGR cooler issue or could the FICM going bad have something to do with it as well?
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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