Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cooling Fan Rarely Comes On
Jun 8, 2015
Under normal driving, my cooling fan rarely comes on. The truck runs ECT 194 to 200 and EOT about 7-8 degrees warmer. On grades in the mountains, not towing, it will cycle on if the ECT gets to 210, cools it down and cycles again if needed. My question is, under similar conditions, what does your truck do? When towing my 5th wheel, about 13k, when its 90 degrees plus, at between 60 and 65mph on level ground, my ECT runs 210 and the fan comes on to around 1400rpm and cools it back down to about 204.
When the ECT gets back to 210, the fan does the same. On uphill grades, I see as much as 220 ECT. When this happens the fan comes on at around 2500rpm and cools it down to about 199 pretty quickly. I have a new oil cooler so my oil always follows and on my last trip I never saw more than EOT of 225 on the longest, steepest grade. The reason I ask is to see if this seems normal. My mech keeps mentioning that if my fan is cycling it may be head gaskets. But, I don't have any other head gasket symptoms. I think it seems pretty normal. If the fan doesn't come on and cool the engine when its working this hard, then what is it for? What does your truck do under similar conditions?
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getting ready to do a cooling system flush per the instructions Cheezit posted a while back, which say "refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section." I think I can figure out the drain and fill but how do you bleed the system?
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I have a 2003 6.0 Exc. I have installed an external "Bullet Proof" oil cooler, and essentially all of the "bullet proofing" accessories with the exception of head studs. I also have installed a Mishimoto oil cooler, as the OEM cooler had a crack in the upper tank, My particular problem is that the cooling fan does not kick on (audibly) until about 230 deg or so. It quickly cools to about 215, and the fan kicks off (audibly). On the long uphills here in AZ, it will repeat this process, sometimes getting as high as 240deg.
(As monitored by my EDGE tuner) I have utilized the blue-wire-to-ground trick noted elsewhere, manually turning the fan on myself, and that works great. What I'm asking, is what sensor sends coolant temp to the ECU, ( and where is it located in the cooling system) which in turn determines how much to turn the cooling fan on? What typical level the sensor sends to the ECU to control the fan? I would like to put together a circuit that "fools" the ECU into turning the fan full "on" at about 210 deg, and stays on until the coolant temp reaches 195 or so. I would like to check that sensor first, and make sure it is working correctly before I try to band aid a fix.
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My truck was parked at home and hadn't been started for 10 days. When I did start it for the first time, I heard the cooling fan spooling up or down, consistent with the engine rpm. After pulling away from my home I saw the fan speed spool up to near 2,800 rpm during the short period it was locked-in with the engine speed.
While driving out of my neighborhood, and about 1/3 of a mile from my house, the fan returned to normal speed of about 480 rpm. I have the FSS pid displayed on my Scangauge and was able to see the fan speed while hearing it. Now I know what the fan sounds like at a high rpm. It makes quite a roar.
This has never happened before. I've driven the truck a few times since then and it hasn't occurred again. What may have caused this?
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2006 F350 6.0 throwing code P0480 and I'm having a hard time figuring anything out pertaining to my truck. Trying to figure out what exactly it is and how to fix it myself.
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I currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
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My engine cooling fan came on when I first started the truck, was reading of 2k on torque app, ECT was appx 100* with the EOT a little cooler after about 5-10 minutes things went to normal around 600 rpm. It did not happen anymore during the drive, I was seeing about 192* ECT and 198-200 EOT. I let her set for 2 days and took her to town and the fan was at normal RPM's, Is there any problems or is that normal?
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I noticed my A/C hasn't been up to par. It's not bad when driving but just ok when idling. So today I changed the orfice tube and the accumulator. Vacuumed the sys. down and charged it up, 2 lbs 10 oz. It is worse! the compressor kicks on and off constantly only cooling to 80 degrees.
I noticed the high goes right up to 350 then the compressor shuts off .... 7 seconds later, back on and up to 350lbs and off again. I think the high-pressure switch is shutting the compressor off before anything goes kaboom but why isn't my fan cooling the condenser down? my FSS shows no increase in fan speed. Sitting at 450.
I think I'm going to cool the condenser down with a hose now to see if that works. If so, That would be telling me the fan isn't doing it's job correct?
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Noticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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Here is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
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Turns out I've lost nearly all of the coolant from my secondary cooling system and am trying to diagnose the problem.
Things I noticed:
-All of the hoses appear to be in good condition.
-Coolant is dripping from the center of the engine bay.
-After inspecting the turbo area, it appears the valley below the turbo is wet.
The intake manifold is still on the truck, so I haven't been able to get a better look. Is there anything else near the area I am describing that has coolant? My guess is the turbo water inlet?
Perhaps this : Coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel - YouTube...
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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I just installed a new water pump and thermostat on my truck, and now hardly any heat? I let the truck run for almost an hour without the radiator cap on. And I added coolant back up to the full level. I took it for an almost 100 mile ride and the temp level hardly even moved off of cold? And it is hardley even blowing warm air with the heater on hi.
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I don't have ready access to my truck and I'm trying to buy new cooling parts when I rip out/replace my transmission. I searched the forum but can't find the simple answer I'm looking for regarding the route of the transmission fluid for cooling.
In my 2001, I thought the fluid comes out of the transmission to the radiator, then back to the transmission from last time I was looking at it underneath. But in the forum, it sounds the fluid would come out of the radiator and then into the air cooler in front of the radiator before back to the transmission.
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Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
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Keywords: Diesel fuel, tank capacity, 26 gallons, fuel tank, capacity, false advertisement.
On my 2012 F250 with 19k miles I have NEVER been able to fill tank with more than 22.4 gallons of diesel fuel. That was the day I ran out of diesel going to fill up thinking I had 26 gallons. Once the light comes on I'm filling up, I have every tank fill DOCUMENTED with (date/cost/gals/trip/$per gal).
Talked to local dealer Raleigh, NC , their explanation was fuel pickup was raised to prevent contaminates from getting into injectors. They advertise 26 gallons, should be able to access 26 gallons.
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