Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Coolant Leaks And Head Gasket Failure
Jul 30, 2015
Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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Well I finally went and bought another Ranger. Pretty red 5spd 4WD long bed. I knew it didn't run when I got it (crazy leaky fuel line...stupid squirrels), and the owner was pretty sure it had a head gasket failure. He claimed it was blowing white smoke and using coolant. I hadn't been able to get it to run to verify that, but I can't see why he would lie about that.
I finally got the fuel line fixed today (FYI, don't waste your time or money buying those Dorman OEM connector patch kits at Advanced Auto). While we were cranking the truck, I noticed gas escaping the degas bottle the radiator was pressurized before the thermostat should be open. That to me says blown head gasket (crossing fingers it isn't a cracked head) for sure. I tried to get a picture of the dipstick, but in the light it definitely looks like peanut butter. I just wanted to make sure before the massive ordeal of pulling heads/top end work that will follow
Anyway, plan is to fix her up and get her back on the road! Some picture enjoyment .......
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So, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
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Truck is a 2006 F-350 6.0, ARP studs, Ford Head Gaskets, Bullet Proof Diesel Oil Cooler Kit and EGR with an SCT tuner on tow mode.
Towing approx 15,000 pounds noticed truck started to lose power and misfire. Pulled over and noticed engine oil all over the driver side on engine, looks like it sprayed to top of engine as well. Oil on valve cover, FICM, exhaust manifold. I looked under the truck and saw that oil is all over bottom of the truck, differential covered in oil as well. Looks like blue smoke coming from tailpipe and smells of oil burning. Cannot tell where oil originated from.
I removed the EGR Valve, to see if there was moisture on the valve and when I looked into the intake manifold there is engine oil pooled in the bottom of the intake manifold and on the EGR Valve.
This is not dirty water from soot, it is oil. Truck is misfiring, with no codes being thrown. I noticed a small amount of white residue around the radiator cap however I had just filled up the reservoir, week prior. I unfortunately do not have gauges in the truck and rely on the factory gauges; coolant temps did not rise or move at all when this happened. I am not sure if I blew a head gasket, and really confused on how engine oil got into the intake manifold. I ran the engine with the air filter removed and can see blue smoke coming out of the CCV and oil in residue in front of the turbo inlet.
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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I just did head studs, gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler, hpop, up pipes, exhaust, and turbo rebuild on my 03' 6.0. I started the truck and it ran kind of rough but I figured it was air in the oil. Then I heard a choppy sound from the tailpipe and my first thought was bent pushrod. I let the truck run for a couple of minutes while I looked and listened to the engine and it seemed alright but I shut it down to pull valve covers. I had a code for cylinder 5 contrabalance so I started there.
The pushrod was definitely bent so I ordered one and threw it in. The truck runs amazing now compared to anytime I have ever heard it run, and all rockers move as it looks like they should but I still do have popping through the intake. I took cylinder 5 pushrod back out and I think the gasket bent from when the pushrod bent the first time. Even though the rocker is moving I think the bent gasket is pushing the pushrod on the side of the lifter maybe? The guide in the gasket is folded over and I don't know how the hell to bend it back besides a screwdriver.
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I'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. The other day I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark (if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year. I also had to refill my degas bottle up to the fill line. Took 2 gallons of Ford VC-3-B Coolant and water mix. After a short run to verify the problem, it took another 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of mix. But, no overheating. No signs of leaks anywhere. Just a strong scent of coolant on shutdown outside the truck. Pressure tested the cap, I don't have a way of testing the system pressure.
Data from Autoenginuity:
Engine Oil temp 195-202 Degrees
Engine Coolant #1: 188.2-199.5 Degrees.
Engine Coolant #2: 125.5-129.9 Degrees.
I have the full CSV file.
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When the engine is working hard and the head (s) unseat, where does the coolant go, in the oil, to the atmosphere or both?
There are times when I am pulling heavy ( 18 to 20K+) pulling up a hill from a stop, and I can hear the engine working hard, then I later check the coolant level and it has drop.
Where did it go?
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Just bought a 2005 F250 PSD, got a smoking deal on it. It has 321k miles and has been very well taken care of however I do believe that it either needs a new oil cooler or has bad head gaskets. Pictured below you will see what the coolant looked like when I let the first batch lose. It does not seem foamy, which is interesting to me, however there is NO EGR to cause this soot.
About the truck:
- It was bulletproofed at 50k miles (EGR delete, ARP head studs, etc).
- There is no puking of coolant (drove it 100 miles from where I purchased it and nothing)
- When the truck is started you have to let it warm up for about 10 minutes,otherwise it seems to not have full power. (was going to reflash the ECU in hopes this repaired that problem).
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My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.
So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?
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2001 Ford F250 5.4 gasoline. At the most recent oil change my mechanic said there was an oil leak and he had dyed the new oil and cleaned everything up and to come back in 100 miles.I just did so and he said that it was a leaking head gasket. He said to do the head gasket replacement right or to put in a rebuilt engine would be close to same and he would recommend the replacement. He said it was not a heavy leak and probably ok to drive another 10,000 or so miles first. Just returned from a trip where we drove 15 hours straight (30 degree temps) and the truck ran fine and no overheating.There does not appear to be oil in coolant or vice versa. I took the cap off overflow coolant and cranked and revved and no disturbance whatsoever. I read somewhere where a mechanic was saying it was impossible for this Ford engine to leak oil from a head gasket failure .
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I brought my Outback to one mechanic due to overheating and a strange skipping feeling when accelerating. First mechanic said head gaskets needed to be replaced, I wasn't surprised since I have about 142k miles on it and it has been leaking oil, quoted between $1800 and $2000. I took it to another shop, recommended by a friend, and they agreed the gaskets needed to be replaced and there was also a misfire due to the spark plugs. This shop quoted me at $2200-2600 for the head gaskets, spark plugs, all wires and timing belt, all other engine gaskets, thermostat, engine oil and coolant. I still owe a good bit on this car (parents bought on the fly from a less than stellar used lot and now it is my problem), and my thinking is I do not want to bring on more debt by attempting to trade this one in and go for a new car. My question is, do I go with the second mechanic that wants to basically rebuild to top of my engine, or would I be ok limiting the repairs to the head gaskets and spark plugs?
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I have a 03 5.4 F150 SCrew... The intake was leaking on the passenger side (water outlet tube meets plastic).
Putting in the Dorman replacement and noticed that the front cylinder drivers side (#5) had a decent amount of coolant in it.. None of the others did. I've drained the coolant already and was wondering should I just put this back together and see?
The water outlet crossing has a hole right next to this cylinder and I can't see any cracks and not sure if the gaskets were leaking under it.
Seems like if the head gasket was blown I would see it in more cylinders? It never smoked or run bad before I got this leak... Drove it maybe 10 miles with it leaking out onto Cyl#1. Ran fine, never missed.
I just don't want to put this back together if the head gasket is blown but I don't know what to do.
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I have a 91 Ranger V6 4WD with 150K that has been sitting for 7 years. The last time I drove it (7 years ago) to a mechanic, who diagnosed it with a bad head gasket - leaking coolant and coolant in the oil.
What am I looking at as far as a project: besides redoing the head gasket, what else will I most likely need to do given that its been sitting 7 years?
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I am working on my buddy's 1994 Ranger with a 2.3L I4 that has been going thru a large amount of engine coolant. The trucks has approximately 180,000 miles on it. When I had it parked on concrete I have not seen any signs of coolant on the concrete or any signs of coolant leaking. The next place I checked was inside the cab to see if there was any coolant from the heater core and there was not. The water pump has been replaced a couple of years back. I replaced the spark plugs today and did not see anything on the plugs that I would have thought were signs of coolant in the combustion chambers.
With that being said I have not worked on a vehicle with a leaking head gasket before. Would there be any visible signs on the sparks plugs? If so what would I be looking for? When standing in front of the vehicle with the engine running there is a slight smell of antifreeze being "vaporized". Are there any noted issues with this engine that would cause this? Are there any other things I should check? Could it be a leaking head gasket causing this? If so how can I check for that?
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To all those folks that said I had a head gasket putting pressure into my cooling system and causing it to overheat, you were right. It is a 2003 F250 with 80000 5.4 l. I have had to replace mexhaust manifold bolts on left side (horrible job, couldn't get one out). Back fenders are rusted out, under the extended cab rusted, doors are rusting at the bottom. My friend/mechanic said it was time to get rid of it. I don't really have thousands of $$ for a different one, but also, replacing the head gaskets are in the thousands for a repair bill. I have looked at used 2008 250 4 door and they are 20000+++ sheesh, but a new one is out of the question. Do I get the gasket situation repaired?
It does not act up all the time, some times it never overheats, sometimes it will. Somewhat infrequent ( I had one mechanic look at it and he tried 3 different times, and it did not overheat. Temp gage will peg, coolant resevior will overflow, but is not hot (100 degrees). I dont have the really have the money to put into a newer model, but I am worried about being nickeled and dimed to death after dumping a couple of thousand into a head gasket, plus I suppose I need to have the other side manifold gasket/bolts checked too. It seems like low miles to be having issues, yes I realize all will rust, but this year, as evidnet in our area, was really suspect-able to rust.
Not worried about the body, is it worth it to spend 2500 for head gasket repair, or trade up a couple of years, less miles, etc. My worry is, I already had to fix 1 exhaust manifold gasket, know head gasket to fix a cooling issue, do I cut my losses and move to another truck, or spend the money for repairs. I don't really have money for either but want to make a good decision. Truck has not been abused and has been serviced as scheduled. Had to put on new brakes and rotors, as would expect, and ball joints too. Oil looks fine, no contamination, and coolant is clear. Will the head gasket get worse? As I said before, it is intermittent, but I don't trust it for long trips.
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New truck to me. Truck was advertised with a slow coolant leak. Figured I would trace the leak down and get it repaired no issues. Anyway, working on it this evening I take a close look around the oil filler area and notice the dreaded milkshake color.
I drained the oil out of the truck and the oil actually came out nice and black. Is the headgasket the only area that would cause the oil/coolant mixture? Supposedly the truck has never been overheated.
At any rate, on to find articles on how to pull apart a 4.6L Triton head. I'll see if I'm up to this challenge.
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I have 2012 R with 33,000.00 miles on it. During regular service they detected that I have a coolant leak. They replaced a flange and determined that there was actually a head gasket leak. This is very unusual for such a low mileage. The car is still under extended warranty and they are in the process of replacing the head gasket. They told me today that they have to machine the head since there was some residue due to the coolant leak. This is all done at a VW dealer service.
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I found during an oil change that there is coolant in my oil, I had suspicions of this because of having to add coolant more than I should of had to. There is probably either a crack in my block, head gasket or intake manifold, my question is how can I tell which. I figure that if I preform a compression check it will tell me that I have a cracked block and or a cracked head gasket, what will tell me if I breeched my intake manifold.
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