Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Compressor Spin Even If AC Or Heat Isn't On?
Apr 9, 2017
Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
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I'm not trying to sound like some dumb kid here but it really bothers me that my truck can't spin the tires. I don't go around beating on this thing, but when my friend's 95 jeep cherokee with a bone stock I-6 can roast his tires off, its kind of embarrassing that my 570 ft lb diesel cant even get a chirp on wet ground. I do have a limited slip rear axle, but shouldn't I still be able to spin them at least a little?
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Now first let me start off by saying the trucks is running great great mileage still tons of power no problems, however I have one small complaint it seems since the first oil change with Mobil 1 about five thousand miles , as I'm driving the audible rattle and turbo spin up sound is quite prevalent? It's getting to the point that on certain job site young guys are asking me when did I delete the EGR and whether I used a banks open exhaust system?? what the hell is a banks ?? I have a very good friend with a 2014 that so quiet you can't even hear it.
Will this be normal that it will continue to get louder , I honestly put off buying a diesel for this exact reason I didn't want to listen to a tractor chugging down the road I hear enough of that on my farm with my 3 cylinder tractors. Why are the 14 models so quiet what's so different about the 15 and up?? I know they said it has a larger turbo but it can't just be that ?? and is there anything I can do to quiet it down?? I know I am old, but even I can hear that rattle its getting old fast like me...
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I'm getting ready for the change in weather and noticed that I don't have any heat. A/C blows cold as a blizzard but its cold even when I have it all the way in the heat.
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
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Compressor continually clicks off and on..... No cold air.... Checked freon seems to be full.... Big line never gets cold?
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So the A/C compressor died on my truck. I am looking at replacing it myself and it looks rather tight in there. My labor manual says I have to pull the fan/fan clutch, fan shroud and right inner fender to gain access.
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I recently picked up a 2005 F350 6.0. I got it cheap with a plugged oil cooler, and went in planning to do studs, gaskets, and all the Ford updates just to have it out of the way. When taking it apart, I quickly noticed that the compressor was damaged. Looks to me like some foreign object(s) entered the turbo, would bounce off the wheel, impact the cover, and repeat.
Engine seemed to run great. Turbo spooled quickly and while I wasn't paying close attention, I'd glance when accelerating and it'd be in the neighborhood of 27 PSI. Engine cranks evenly and starts well, so there's no obvious engine damage. I'll inspect the bores closely with the heads off.
So my main question: Assuming no damage elsewhere, Do I need just a wheel? There is some pitting and high spots on the cover, but could it be carefully worked down with the cover removed? Do I just need to get a wheel and a cover? Or just a whole new turbo? Looking for a budget-friendly option to remedy this properly.
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I am looking to mount a viair tank and compressor on my truck, I was thinking underneath on the frame. Have any pics?
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I have a small oil leak that is showing up under my turbo compressor housing. It's starting to show a little in the valley. Not a big leak, just not sure were the source is and would like you opinions and recommendations. I have been cleaning it up every few days, drive it then use a mirror and rag to try and locate the source.
Here are some pics, I hope I took some that are good enough. Unfortunately I cleaned up the oil before the pics, but I circled and marked the location.
Concerned about the turbo, but I don't understand this leak since it's not coming from the center section. The turbo drain pipe is new and it does not seem to be coming from there. The leak is not enough to show a change on the dipstick the last 3-4,000 miles as far as I can tell.
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Strange thing happened yesterday and again today. I have my compressor hooked up to up fitter #3 ,turned it on yesterday to fill the tank back up to 120psi. Before it filled up i shut the truck off to fuel up..but the compressor kept running for a few seconds after the truck was off. and today doing some running around the compressor turned on out of the blue when i was driving..but the switch was off.
The shut off switch (on the compressor itself) turns it on at around 90psi and shuts off at 120, but the thing filled my tank to 180 before i noticed it was on, pulled over to shut the truck off and again it ran for 10-15 seconds after the truck was off. I'm pretty confused. maybe it has something to do with the build up of snow under the truck, we just got 16" two days ago. but still when the up fitter is off shouldn't that cut the power from the accessory hooked up to it?
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Every time my air compressor would shut off I got a loud annoying pop through the radio. Even if the radio was off I would still get the pop. I knew it couldn't be good for all the electronics in the truck so I tried a mod.
Diodes across the relay signal terminals need to be installed in performance carts to protect the electronics. I put one of these diodes on my truck this week. 100% of the pop is gone.
I used this one : ACC-KIT-CSD-1
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So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
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I have a 2004 Excursion Limited with a 6.0 PSD. Recently I have noticed my temp, I have a Scan Gauge II, slowly climbing when I am idling. On the highway it runs anywhere from 175-205 depending on time of year and load I'm pulling. Lately I have noticed it starting to climb while sitting in a parking lot at idle after coming off a steady speed run. Temp goes from about 175 up to about 205 just at idle. It is a slow creep up not a dramatic change. I have checked my coolant levels and it is full. I have made sure the front of the radiator is clear.
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today me and the wife where riding around doing some things before the snow storm. we went to the store and the heat was great but when we came out cranked the truck and all of a sudden no heat at all would just blow cold air. im not trying to go to a dealer and get charged an arm and a leg so where do i start.
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Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
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I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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I have just installed air bags on my 2015 F350 DRW and looking for a location for the air compressor and control unit for the wireless manifold.
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AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
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