Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Code P2290 - Start But No Power
Oct 2, 2015
Long story behind it but finally got my scanner working right and checked the suggested systems for p2290.
IPR was 77+ on start up dropped to around 31 at idle
FMP is in the 46.5 to 47.5 range
SYC was at 1 and occasionally at 1.5
ICP was at 550-650 during startup and quickly ramped up to 1150 then settled into around 850 at idle.
The only thing that I'm not sure of is the IPR being 31 at idle, is that what it should be. The others I think are within normal operating parameters.
The truck starts but has no power. Can barely go up a slight hill on my street. Seems like it's going to be fine but as soon as I apply a little gas it just falls off.
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I just did a bunch of work on my 6.0. Here's a list- head gaskets, arp studs, new heads, 2 new injectors, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, water pump, and all new injector o-rings. After messing around with a bent pushrod, cylinder 5 code and and replacing injectors the truck runs excellent. After driving it a bit I get a code "P2290 injector control pressure too low". The truck runs great with no low power, stalls, or hard start cold or hot. I do puff black smoke but that's because of the sct tuner on performance tune.
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My 05 excursion died on me a couple weeks ago. First it threw a p2290 code for low injection control pressure. It did this a few months ago and had no problems. Cleared code and did not come back until now. So I cleared the code. Drove a few more miles and lost all boost pressure. Still fires up and runs. It does run a bit rough but only a little bit.
I replaced the oil cooler, did egr delete, and put an IPR remote oil cooler and full flow coolant filter on it few months ago. Since it died i pulled the ipr valve and it looked good. I put a new screen o-rings, and wiring pigtail on it since it was out. Put back together and still no boost. I really did not figure that would fix the boost issue but i wanted to make sure the screen was not clogged or torn.
Truck will fire up cold and warm with no problem and run. The hose from the map sensor to manifold is good and i put new clamps on it.
2005 6.0 with 95,000 miles.
ICP duty cycle = 0.29
map kpa = 102
Injection control pressure = 5.91 MPA
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I have a 2007 F250 6.0 L with 116000 miles. I have never done any modifications or changed anything on the truck. Now that the weather is starting to warm up I've noticed that once the truck is at operating temperature it starts to chug and sometimes even die while driving and while its doing this the truck has no power. It does not seem to do it when its cold. Here is a picture of my gauges KOEO operating temp at idle...
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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Earlier this week, I had the p1260 pop up. Then while driving to the beach, I had the p2290 pop up. I do not actually have a check engine light on, but used my torque app to find the codes. I have found a oil leak on the driver side coming from somewhere. I have a mishimoto thermostat coming in next week. I will try to collect parts needed for this repair. From my understanding, it's a hpop leak and the adrenaline and stc fitting should be my next move.
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I was working out here on a site north of OKC and the truck has been running great all day. I shut it off to do the job and 20 mins later it will not start. I pulled the codes P2291 low ICP. One thing I noticed is that I cant hear the lift pump running when I turn the key on. I even drained the bowl on it and still can't hear anything. So I'm thinking bad lift pump or something.
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I drove the truck Sunday to 3 different places, parked it around 3:00 pm. Went to take it to work the next morning and it just cranked with no start. I pulled the codes as I have an edge insight. I got a P2614 code so I figured it was the cam sensor. We after some reading to what everyone had to say I checked to see if I had RPM when I got home and I did so that put me back to having no clue. I took as many readings as I could to see if any one might see something that I am not.
ICP psi 1280 cranking 23 key on
IPR 41% cranking 14 key on
IPW ms 0.00 cranking and key on
Fuel Pressure 63.1 cranking
ICP voltage 1.6 cranking .3 key on
Mass Air flow 8.3-10.7 cranking 0.00 key on
Engine RPM 166-205 cranking
FICM 47.0-47.5
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So I was have a problem the other day with code p2285 did some more checking and found an hpo system leak. Bad injector o ring. I have fixed that. But now when I got it all put back together and went to start it up now have no crank at all, the wrench light is coming on, when I hook up my scangauge it will not connect (so I can't get any readings or codes) I have checked all the fuses that have to do the the ignition system.
They all seem fine. I can get it to crank if I jump the starter wire to the battery. I really need to get this figured out my mini Cooper is waiting for a new clutch to get here and with my truck down I can't get to my job sites next week. I don't know of its just a coincidence or not but while trying to get he truck to start my batteries got drained so got them charged and one was bad (it's less then a year old).
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So my 04 f350 was running fine good power and everything till I shut it off a couple days ago and now when it is cold it fires right up but when the truck warms up it just cranks and cranks .... only code I throwing is p2285
Key on engine off
Ipr-14.8
Icp-0
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine running
Ipr-33.5
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp-875
I thought I fixed it before but I was sadly mistaken replaced the ICP and IPR...
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Can a leaking Y Pipe throw a P0299? Dealership says that is my problem. My MAP at idle is 14.4 EBP is 17 - 18. At 60mph MAP is 20 EBP is 26-28. Boost is 10-20 .. Truck drives great no apparent issue. P0299 only code and appears when cold first start of day. If I clear it it goes away for the rest of the day and only comes back occasionally. Twice in 5 days only at cold start. 2005 F350, 100% stock, Ford filters all. Scan guage 2 for readings....
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The last couple days the truck has been a hard start in the morning. about 28 deg F. I thought the glow plugs were getting weak or a couple of them were out.
Hooked up my AE and pulled codes, one of them was P0261 # 1 inj. Truck is fully warmed up and is running fine. Did a koer glow plug test and it came back ok. Power balance looks good now.
Probably looked different when I finally got it started this morning. Took 3 cranks to get her going and it sounded like crap till it got a bit warmer.
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So the truck wont start, no crank no nothing all lights work etc. I am getting the icp code. I replaced the icp and the pigtail about a year or so ago what should I be looking at?my icp voltage is .22 volts with the koeoff. While trying to crank it I get no change in voltage. My ipr is at 14.8 and the ficim is at 47. Also when I unplug the sensor it still does nothing...
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i have a 2007 f350 6.0 and it was running fine. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start. it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I changed the oil, repaired the FICM and still got nothing. Then i took a generic scanner and got the code p2285. I replace the ICP but still no start. I have also changed both batteries. I'm not getting any codes right now either. What is going on?It has around 229,000 miles
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Truck has performed flawlessly during that time period. Early build 2003 CC SB 4wd King Ranch truck 94,000 miles I purchased new in 2003. Good batteries. Bone stock except for superchips tune.
First sign of trouble: Two weeks ago CEL came on, P2285 Injector Control Pressure Circuit Low, as soon as truck was started after sitting unused for about a month. Bought new sensor, haven't installed it yet (early model sensor located under turbo on rear of engine and a real pain to change). Truck still started fine and ran fine. Dreading the ICP sensor install, I continued to drive the truck. Drove truck 5 miles to get tractor fuel. Got fuel, started truck and drove away. Got 200ft and truck died. I changed secondary filter under hood, turned key on and let pump cycle about 4 times. Truck started. Cleared codes. No longer have CEL. Drove 5 miles home, shut truck off and no start.
Troubleshooting: Changed primary filter under truck. Really cruddy (probably 80,000 mi on it). I cleaned inside filter housing thoroughly. I had to cycle pump KOEO about 6 times before it started. Shut off and immediately tried to start. No start. Ran pump KOEO about 30 seconds. Started. Shut off and same result. I then drove truck 4 miles driving both normal and WOT. No problems, no smoke, no CEL, ran perfectly normal. Shut off, no start until cycling pump KOEO for about 30 seconds. No codes set.
I then removed cap from secondary filter and checked for trash. Fuel and bowl were clean. I did notice fuel drained completely from bowl in about 5 minutes. I reinstalled filter and put pressure gauge on housing.
Fuel pressure readings: KOEO 55psi after about 3 seconds. Engine running 55psi. Turn key off and pressure instantly drops to 25psi, then bleeds off to zero over about a 3 minute time period. Does this seem normal?
Questions: Could the clogged fuel filters cause the p2285 code to set? Could the HPOP system have developed a leak and cause these symptoms?
Could an injector leak cause these symptoms and engine still run ok?
Action Plan: Install new ICP sensor. Do bubble test to check for injector compression leak. Install Blue Spring mod. Waiting on parts. Possibly buy scanner which will read HPOP output etc. Any recommendations here?
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2004 F350 Lariat 6.0 Crew Cab 6spd... I just bought this truck a month or so ago has been a great running truck since. Before I got it it had headgaskets done, egr valve replaced, and new injectors installed.
Yesterday I shut it off and was setting up my scangauge and doing few other things and noticed I ran the batteries down to 7 volts. So I unhooked them and charged them seperately and cleaned the posts. Now today it won't start. Voltage shows 12.3 FICM logic and main both show 12v and FICM shows 48.5 and doesn't lower when cranking. CMP/CKP shows its not syncing and I am throwing a cmp sensor code. Its had the code since I got it and I've cleared it but always comes back. I've read its rare for a cmp sensor to go bad so I'm wondering if it sounds more like the wiring just seems strange its first time it wouldn't start and hasn't had any other problems.
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2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
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I got a 2006 F250 6.0 that won't start. It turns over perfectly. What I've done so far was change oil and filter, along with fuel filters. All fuses and relays are fine. I payed for the scan gauge 2 and monitored FICM SYNC, FICM voltage, ICP, AND IPR. Every thing checks out besides ICP. The ICP is reading under 400. So I unplugged the ICP. Still no start.
I decided to spray some starter fluid in the intake and turn her over. Boom starts right up and runs fine. I even drove her around for about 20 min. I get home and shut off the truck. wait a few minutes and nothing dead again. So ICP is low but the truck runs fine after some initial support from starter fluid. What I need to do next? I don't want to have to take it into the shop for something stupid I could do myself.
Also the code its throwing at me is P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit
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Long crank to start hot and cold. Acts like missing when its cold tho and when it warms up it runs ok but it will set code weafher warm or cold and u can turn it out with scan tool and drive and it wont come back till restarted again...
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Which is, Injector Control Pressure Too Low. First filter change on this truck. Purged the truck six times. No start. Purged it six more times. The truck started momentary. I've been purging for the last two hours. Now I have the code. What next?
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Earlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.
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