Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Clicking From Door Locks / CD Player Says Initializing / No Heat From Vents
Feb 13, 2016
This is the it's always something post. Alternator rebuilt to 185. Batteries tested by AAA. When I went into the truck tonight the door locks made a clicking sound like the battery was going dead. Truck fired right up at 0 degrees.
I just installed WARN locking hubs and now I only have a defroster blower that works. Is there anything else besides a vacuum leak that might cause that?
6 CD Player has had problems loading and unloading for a few years but now it just says initializing and goes right back to radio.
I am really regretting doing the right thing two weeks ago and not letting this truck burn when it caught on fire on the Turnpike.
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My truck would not open door locks for like ten minutes or do anything. then all off sudden it worked again its this twice...
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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Driving today I noticed a hot smell, it went away shortly after. When I got home I noticed the electric door locks no longer function. I guess this will be a test of my 3rd party warranty!
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Power door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
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I noticed a couple weeks ago after starting the truck and turning on the a/c that nothing was coming out of the vents. I found it odd when after driving a few miles the a/c kicked in and started blowing cold air. Today I needed to put on the defrost and same thing, nothing came out of the vents. I drove around for a while hoping it would kick in just like the a/c did but nothing. I did check the fuses and relay. When you turn the control either to heat or a/c you can hear a clicking sound under the hood. It's trying to engage but nothing is coming out of the vents.
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on my 2002 lariat.. Crew Cab dually. 7.3.. it will go into programming mode after 8 cycles.. Door locks actuate, but fob wont program. I checked the fobs and they are sending signals. What could be problem?
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I have a 2003 6.0l f250 disel and when I am driving and get up to around 45 mph it will shift and start to shake the whole truck and even if you mash the throttle RPMs won't move and will not gain speed until you let off the throttle and then re engage but it will continue to do this and I cannot seem to figure out what is wrong.
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I tried the methods that I could find on youtube but with no luck.... I do not have the option to change the settings in the message center either...
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I'm getting ready for the change in weather and noticed that I don't have any heat. A/C blows cold as a blizzard but its cold even when I have it all the way in the heat.
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
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My buddy's '05 will not blow out of the dash vents, you can make the a/c blow out the defrost or the floor but no dash. Vacuum pump is working great, rarely ever kicks on and doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere in the system that I can tell yet. Pulling a vacuum on the red line will make it start blowing out the vents so the door is functioning.
I thought maybe I had narrowed it down to the ATC solenoid and manifold (Ford part #5c3z-19d611-aa) not working properly but found that the F-150 guys having problems with the o-rings on the back of the control head. Seems they replace the 4 o-rings and all is well, cheap easy fix. Are the units on the diesel set up that way too?
A quick search for EATC problems on the diesels didn't bring up much, seems they don't tend to fail. He's wanting to sell it and asked if I could try and fix the problem. It's been about a year since I last looked at it, so my recollection might be a bit foggy.
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I recently installed an egr delete and ever since, my vents have been stuck to the upper dash no matter which setting I put on. The vent will push the air conditioning, regular air and heat all the same. I have checked the fuses and they are all good.
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So, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
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I have a 2004 Excursion Limited with a 6.0 PSD. Recently I have noticed my temp, I have a Scan Gauge II, slowly climbing when I am idling. On the highway it runs anywhere from 175-205 depending on time of year and load I'm pulling. Lately I have noticed it starting to climb while sitting in a parking lot at idle after coming off a steady speed run. Temp goes from about 175 up to about 205 just at idle. It is a slow creep up not a dramatic change. I have checked my coolant levels and it is full. I have made sure the front of the radiator is clear.
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today me and the wife where riding around doing some things before the snow storm. we went to the store and the heat was great but when we came out cranked the truck and all of a sudden no heat at all would just blow cold air. im not trying to go to a dealer and get charged an arm and a leg so where do i start.
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Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
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Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
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No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
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How to figure out what caused my rear seats to lose heat?
No heat, no illumination on the buttons
Fuse looks good
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