Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Clicking / Chirping Noise - Engine Start Overheating
Jun 30, 2015
I have used this forum to look up everything I've needed to since I bought my 05 F250 FX4 6.0 brand new. I was pulling our brand new camper in 100* heat. I began to hear a clicking from the truck from the engine compartment that would be right by the turbo. My engine started overheating, but I had no smoke (black or white). The engine cooled down after I was done climbing the hills, but I had feathering from by the air cleaner and the clicking/chirping was still present.
I pulled over to let the truck cool and checked my coolant reservoir. While pulling over, I lost accelerator pedal responsiveness. The turbo was also engaging a lot. I pulled over. Put the truck in park, but left it idling. As I was looking around under the hood, the truck died. I have not been able to start it. (This all happened Saturday). The truck is 20 miles from home, and I've been out tinkering every day. Here is what I know:
1) I have 48 volts to the FICM.
2) I have tried to start it early in the morning and in the evening when temperatures were low.
3) When I crank, I do get oil pressure from the instrument cluster.
4) The oil level is at the correct markings on the dip stick.
5) Using my scanguage II, I have verified an IPR reading of 14.8. As I crank, it goes up to 84.7. My ICP reading is all over the place. It always gets to above 500, yet it with the key off - engine off, I get a reading higher than zero. With the key-on I go from 300 to 500 and to over 1000 with out the think even hinting at starting.
6) I have oil in the oil filter housing.
7) I have fuel in the upper fuel filter housing bowl.
8)The batteries and alternator have all passed load testing.
9)I tried to start the truck with the ICP disconnected, and didn't have any luck.
10) I have no codes set or pending.
I am at a loss. I don't want to start throwing $$ at various parts.
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I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
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So my 11' F350 is over heating when the engine RPM's are below about 1300 whether the truck is moving or not. If I let it idle for 2-5 minutes I can watch the temp gauge go to red and an engine over temp message appears. I noticed that if I rev the engine to > 1300 RPM it cools back down.
This appears to be a water pump going bad, any other thoughts? Are there instructions for changing the water pump here on the forum?
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04 excursion 6.0 auto. New batteries a month ago. New alternator (New Bosch) 6 months ago. Charging system shows 12-13 volts on scan gauge with engine off, 14 with engine running. Drops to 10 or 11 while actually engaging starter.
Every once in a while, often when the engine is hot (in fact I can't ever remember this happening when it's cold) the solenoid clicks like it would when the battery is dead. So far, it does this while it's actually engaging the starter, so I hear the solenoid clicking under the hood while I hear the whir of the starter under the floor board.
Never had this happen before. Not sure what part is trying to tell me it's on its way out? Heat soaked starters are harder to start, or less powerful, or something, right?
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My buddy has a 2011 250 and is having some weird issues with a clicking noise. It started out when you put the truck in gear (D or R) and touch the gas it would click. Seems to be coming from the middle to rear part of the truck. Now it clicks when he's driving. This all started after he got 35's and a leveling kit. It's taller springs in the front and added a block in the rear. It has less than 15k on it.
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I posted a few threads about the P04DB code over the past several months. Last month while on vacation it came back and this time I was getting an engine light. So I finally got around to taking it in. The A/C blower was also making a clicking noise so I thought I would take care of both of those. At 41k and 42 months in service, the factory drive train warranty covered the CCV sensor replacement. The fan blower had to be replaced. So if getting that P04DB past 3/36, it is covered under the 5/60.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 Turbo Diesel I recently purchased. I am hearing a noise when accelerating from a stop. The only time I'm hearing it is when the window is down. The noise sounds like someone is tapping an aluminum pop can. It is easily reproducible as well. I decided to get under the truck and have my wife toggle the transmission from park to reverse. They noise does not occur unless one foot is placed on the brake and the accelerator is lightly pressed. (My wife had the opportunity to run me over and claim it as an accident but lucky me she decided not too). Below is a video. I had a hard time locating the noise. It sounds like it may be coming from the exhaust or drive shaft. The drive shaft does not spin when toggling from reverse to drive but the ticking noise can be simulated and heard when lightly pressing the gas while holding the brake. Something need lubed somewhere?
Clicking noise - YouTube ....
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Title says it all. Chirping sounds almost like belt noise but appears to be coming underneath the vehicle (and from further back than the drivers seat). Goes away as soon as I turn off tow haul (which provides engine braking). A quick visual inspection finds nothing amiss. Trucks runs and drives normally with or without tow haul.
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
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I have a 2006 f350 PSD 6.0l that blew the turbo a few months back. Has 102k miles. I had a large truck diesel mechanic near where it blew up replace the turbo. Everything seemed to be fine but started noticing a chirping sound that would start at 2500 rpm but only with a load like pulling a trailer or going up steep grade. I have looked everywhere online to try to find something similar with no luck. The problem is getting worse and I need to find out what it is. Now the noise has gotten worse and it sputters after each chirp. It is now between 2100 and 2750. The more I push it on that rpm range the more it will sputter. If I push it enough that it down shifts, it all goes away and drives fine although seems like less power..
I am running the stock program and have changed the fuel filters, batteries, pulled off and looked at everything coming and going to the turbo and just can't find anything. I'm not sure if there are some other gauges I should be looking at while driving but I haven't found any that look like they show anything while it's sputtering and making the noise. Also I feel like it does not have the power it used to have before the turbo blew and was changed.
I also added a clip of the exhaust. I put the 5" turbo back AFE. I'm not sure it's sounding quite right. Seems to hiss a lot more than I thought it should, Don't know if it's related to my problem.
In the video I'm hauling a 14' dump trailer with very little weight in it. 2006 f350 lowres - YouTube....
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My truck has a new HPOP, Water pump, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, and t stat. For a while it would only overheat when pulling a load or just pushing the truck hard. now that i have tuned my truck to street from SCT it overheats only when idling with ac on for a long period of time. turn on the heat and the temp jumps back down. i have full gauges and can do diagnostics but am not sure what to look for. My guess is a clogged radiator but that seems unlikely. My radiator dose have a small leak at the gasket could this cause it?
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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I just installed the Donaldson B085011 filter last night. I understand the swoosh noise when shifting is normal. But, I noticed a chirpping when coasting. I first suspected suspension parts maybe but after reading on here could it be surge? I've seen some videos of what surge sounds like and it does sound like that but most people say it only happens under load and I'm hearing it just coasting down my farm market road to a stop sign without hauling anything. I'm researching billet compressor wheels now. Am I on the right trail to resolve this?
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Just noticed a loud squealing sound coming from the engine area before I start the truck, but with the key in the on position. I'll try to get a video the next time it happens. I assume it's something starting/warming up, but it's louder than anything I've ever noticed. It lasts probably 20 seconds.
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I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
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After replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
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Early build 6.0 (2003) starts fine in CT winter weather as long as its plugged in, HOWEVER, will not start after engine has been running! It just started doing this a week or so ago and after plowing all day yesterday, it just wont start after the engine is up to operating temp. It will start on a shot of ether but I only did that once to get it home.... Other than that, the truck runs great! I changed the oil today, checked the ficm (48V) and the injectors were all done less than a year ago. The only code I get every once in a while is Cyl 1 injector circuit low and that goes away on its own. I'm not really sure where to start.....
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While driving home last night my truck started to overheat, the temp jumped from where its been running at lately (around 210) to 240, I stopped and took it easy getting home. This morning I sprayed down the radiator to clean out any mud that may have gotten in it from field work at the office (its always going through some pretty deep stuff). It ran fine for about an hour then it started to over heat again, I got it home and did a complete radiator flush and then did a test drive. It still overheated so I decided to try something, I released the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap partially and drove it around again, this time it didn't overheat, put the cap back on and the temp jumped right back up to 240.
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I just bought a used 2007 f250 with the 6.0 power stroke. The truck has approx. 160,000 miles on it. He is having a issue with the truck overheating when it is cold out. When the air temp is above 30 degrees or so, he doesn't have a issue. So,my he overheating only occurs when driving down the highway in low temperatures. It can idle in the cold fine.
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