Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Checking Oil Level - Napkin Not Wet But Dipstick Is?
Apr 29, 2015
I know checking your oil level is a pretty easy thing but I am having a serious issue right now. I checked my oil and my dipstick has oil on it but it isn't leaving the napkin wet. Like there is oil on the dip stick but it just doesn't seem right. Nothing on the ground were I stopped at before I got home. How long will it run without causing damage?
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I know that when the engine oil level is low a screen will pop up saying to replace the oil.
Is there a way to check the oil level without having to use the dip stick?
On my old HCH it would display the oil life on a side toggle display.
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When checking the oil I am having difficulties determing the level. It is difficult to determine an actual line of the oil level. Oil is smeared above the dimples of the dipstick. I know it is not two inches above the top dimple. I have two other vehicles in the family and it is very easy to tell the level. After driving how long should I wait for the oil to settle into the pan? How to determine the level on the dipstick. A friend of mine to said to check to see if the lower dimple is filled with oil.
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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I know this may seem like a really dumb question, but I was checking the oil on my 2008 prius today and noticed I get different readings on the front and reverse side of the dipstick. One side I have a halfway mark between the 2 marks, flip it over to the backside and I see my oil level is full. So I'm not really sure what the correct reading is.
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How do you tell if there is water fuel drain plug check area ? Fuel always looks the same to me.
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I didn't realize the 6.7 had two places that you need to monitor your coolant level. I've kept an eye on my coolant reservoir for the rad due to radiator failures reported but just today noticed there was another one for the intercooler. Mine was quite low. I'm sure most of you knew it was there but for those that didn't, keep that baby topped up I can't imagine having a hot intercooler is good.
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Is there any way to check your level of the power steering fluid on a 2013 xlt 5.0,
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So on my 2007 F250 My transmission dipstick is incredibly loose. I looked in the engine bay and it is not bolted to the block as it should be and I feel like it may not be entirely seated where it should be, if it is at all. There is a whole lot of wiggle room for, but I can't see anything to put it back in place.
I've done some searching and have yet to find a whole lot of anything on how to insert it back into its space from the engine bay, is it even reasonably doable?
Haven't asked a dealer what their price is to fix it, but I'm sure it will be astronomical so I'd rather try to remedy this on my own if possible, though I am currently at school so my access to tools and work space is relatively limited.
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Did my first oil change with Rotella T6. I drained, replaced filter, filled with 13 quarts new. Started engine, let it idle about a minute, turned off, checked level and everything was good. Then I drove about 3 or 4 miles just to make sure everything sounded ok, and when I got back home checked level one more time. After driving, the oil level was still fine, no leaks detected anywhere, but there was smoke coming out of the dipstick hole when I pulled the dipstick. Is this normal?
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My engine oil level is reading three inches above the full mark on the dip stick. Do you think there could be diesel fuel or water in the oil system? Notice that the dip stick is not that easy to read. Could this be related to my poor fuel mileage? It can't be doing my engine any good.
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I recently noticed a small bead of coolant on the driver's side of my tie rod coupled with low primary coolant level, so I took it to the dealer expecting to face a radiator issue (50k miles). Instead they said that the lower radiator hose was leaking and recommended replacement. Thinking that we were still headed down the radiator path, I had them do the job.
Upon inspecting the removed hose, I could find no obvious fault, so I inquired further. They clarified that it was the seal which had failed (I guess replacing the entire hose is the fix for this?), that it was contaminants that build up in the coolant which attack the seals, and that I should expect it to happen again if I don't flush the coolant every 10,000 miles (yes, ten thousand).
I asked if he meant to say that I should check the 'coolant additive level' every 10k (instead of 15k) and he again stated that a full flush was necessary every 10k miles and that it was a "maintenance intensive engine." This can't be right.
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I have noticed that the tailgate doesn't sit level when opened, the cables are too short for it to horizontal. The rear of the gate is 1-1/2" higher than the front. The cables need to be about a 1/2" longer for it to sit right.
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2012 6.7 .... Noticed my coolant level in the primary tank was low. Thought it was totally empty but it had about a half inch left in it. Topped it off and also needed about a quarter inch in the secondary. I would say about a half gallon between the two. Truck was at about 36k. Has 37.5 on it now and haven't noticed any loss. Never smelled anything, no signs of any leakage. Oil looks fine. Is this 'normal'? Owners manual says to check and add. Never had this with a gasser or any of my tractors over the past 30 years. This is my first light diesel.
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I now have about 39k miles on 2011. Along the way I think I have added six 2.5gal jugs of DEF. About 1k miles ago I got the low DEF notice and added a 2.5gal jug and am already back down to 250 miles of DEF! I don't see any signs of a leak with the engine running or not. Dropped it off at the dealership this eve for an AM service appointment.
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OK, I've had this truck one month now, and I like it. I think a full-blown analog DEF gauge (a la Dodge) is silly - it doesn't change that much. But I would like to go into a menu somewhere and simply be able to get a reading (90% remaining, 77% remaining, 15% remaining, etc., etc.) From what I understand the 'system check' function will tell you if the level is below half, or just about empty, and nothing else.
Finally, the DPF. Why can't we see EGT on the "gauge" screen which shows tranny and oil temps? Why can't it tell us what % the DPF is filled? When a passive regen is happening? And at the very least, when an active regen is finished?
As a side question, can the high idle control (SEIC) be actuated in any way other than the upfitter switches, which my truck does not have? I understand RAM trucks can press and hold the cruise control or something to activate it.
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About a week after my wreck I got the Parking brake light and the message brake fluid level low. The fluid level is fine and I read some other threads where people said the vacuum system was connected somehow. I knew the ESOF didn't work so I replaced the broken line and nothing changed, except the ESOF works now.
Anyway I can't for the life of me find a replacement sensor, part number or anything.
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What option level has remote start as standard?
Or is it an add on option?
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Installed a 65 Gal Titan Tank the other day. I Finally got a chance to fill her up all the way.. well as much as i could.
My Level sensor is not functioning and I was only able to put in a total of 160 Liters when it should have been right around 246L.
My question is this : I need to syphon my tank now. Is there anything preventing me from doing that or will a 1/2 hose work?
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In the last year I've had a NOX sensor fault (dealer repaired) and a DEF heater fault (I replaced). I'm now getting an EGT sensor fail. Every fault is with the same system.
I'm also realizing that while I'm getting the exhaust system cleaning message, my DEF level is not being depleted.
All the dealership wants to do is change out fault codes but I think the true issue is elsewhere.
2011 F250 SD FX4 6.7L (stock)
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Like the title says, I want to raise the front of my 07 F350 about 2.5 inches to get it closer to level with the rear with out throwing the alignment out of wack if that's possible. Maybe some blocks to go on the front coils? or will I need new front coils that are a bit longer?
'm talking about the FRONT of my F350.
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