Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Charging Line In 7 Pin Connector For Trailer Batteries
May 25, 2015
I have both a hydraulic dump trailer with two 12v batteries and an RV trailer with two 6v batteries to supply 12v. Both trailer's batteries are wired to be charged from the tow vehicle if the TV is equipped with a charge line.
Does the OEM 7 pin connector on a 2005 Ford 6.0 F250 CC 4X4 have a charging line on it? If so which terminal / pin is it?
What gauge of wire is it and how much amperage will it deliver to the connector? For testing, when is it hot? When the truck is running only? When the key is on? Is it hot all of the time?
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I ve been noticing that the alternator isn't charging correctly, or at least it seems like it. We drive short trips sometimes two times a day, a mile or less. One day, night actually, I noticed it started to not turn over with it's usual enthusiastic sound. When the batteries get discharged to a certain point, the voltage at idle will be less than 12 volts. If I rev the engine for a bit, the volts jump up, but at idle it drops back to 12 or below. Seems to me that it should be at least 12v or above if the batteries are discharged, and more towards 12.5ishV if the batteries are fully charged.
After I put it on a 6A charger overnight, the voltage upon starting is above 12, sometimes over 13. But if the batteries start to dwindle down from short trips, the voltage drops to 12 or below at idle.
I did install the smaller pulley a few years back, and that worked massively. I couldn't get 12V at idle before installing the smaller pulley. But now it seems like I'm back to that same situation before installing the smaller pulley.
So, I m guessing that a alternator bench test is in my future? The batteries are fairly new, tho they have been down to nothing at least twice from boneheaded moves by yours truely!
And, I'm speculating that this charging situation contributed to the recent FICM replacement that I went thru.
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Just returned from an 8500 mile travel trailer trip with my 2012 F150 with EcoBoost. Couldn't be happier with how the truck performed. Did discover, however, that my 7-pin connector does NOT charge trailer battery while driving. Wasn't a problem this trip, but could be an issue when dry camping (no electrical hookup). Is it a big deal to get my connector to charge trailer battery while driving?
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My trailers lights aren't working at all- so frustrated right now!! I've checked all the fuses and those are good, I've got no power back to the 7 pin connector...
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03 f350 7.3L. Have no power for the trailer running lights at the connector end. No power when the end is split and no power at the next connector above the spare tire. I have power at the fuse (38) and the fuse is good. What is the best connection to check next? Is there a common culprit that might cause this problem somewhere? I know 3 more connectors are in the frame by the fuel tank but pretty much lose track of which one might have the wire for the trailer.
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My batteries go dead over night, had them checked but they say there good, can't figure out what's causing them to die.
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Do all New trucks come with the factory clearance light plug-in-connector and if so, where would it be located? The reason I ask, is I'm considering adding the cab clearance lights to my 15 F350. Really would like the factory lights but I hear Recon makes some similar.
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My 2014 350 DRW has a battery problem......If it sets for a couple hours, it won't start. With a jump from a very small battery box, it starts right up. I charged it last week for 4 hours and still when in OKC it would need to be jumped at each restart. Do I have one of the batteries going bad.....
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I didn't drive my truck for one day and the batteries are died. This is the second time this has happen. That is a pretty fast drain time. THe truck only has 2500 miles on it. And I;m talking the batteries a dead dead. I hate having to take the truck to the shop. Just a big inconvenience. And it only happens about three weeks apart. I bet that would be pretty had to find the problem.
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About how long do batteries hold up in this truck? I ask because in my 06 6.0 it was an annual event 2 batteries and an alternator.
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If I'm giving a jump:
Assume I hook positive and negative cables to the respective terminals of one of the two batteries. The alternative would be hooking positive cable to one battery and negative cable to the other battery, or does that make 24 volts? I'm also assuming if it is just the one battery, it does not matter which one you jump from?
If I'm receiving a jump:
I assume positive cable to positive post of one battery and negative cable to a good ground under the hood somewhere? Again, does it matter which battery I use? I wonder where a good ground is on this crowded diesel engine and aluminum body. Front radiator supports?
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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I have a 2000 watt inverter and I want to connect it to my 2011 F250 Super Duty. Which battery do I connect it too. This will only be used every once in awhile.
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Been having a on/off problem with my trailer lights. Some times the right hand side does not work, them it starts working. I thought it was my trailer until I rented a bobcat this weekend. They couldn't get the right side lights to work.
I stopped by my Ford dealer and a service tech came out and checked out my pigtail. All checked ok. It seems odd that both trailers would not work on the right side. Two different types of trailers. One is my RV, the other was a flat bed for hauling the bobcat.
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Is there a way to check to see battery health with Dashboss? I know I can check charging system, but is there a way to monitor if the batteries themselves are going south on me?
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Hooked up the toyhauler Friday and before we were off of our street I got the "Wiring Fault on Trailer", brakes on trailer worked, got out and verified the lights were working so we proceeded on.
When we got to the destination the manual says that if the fault stays on when disconnected it is an issue on the truck side, it is still on when the trailer is disconnected.
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Borrowed a buddys trailer that had wiring issues. I ended up blowing a mini fues & maxi fuse in my truck. 06 F350 CC ... Replaced both fuses in the truck and had park lights on the truck but now dont get any lights on any trailers. All factory plugs 7pin & 4 pin. I get turn signals and brake lights on the trailers but that is all. If the fuses are good were should I start looking for problems? or is there more fuses I may be missing. I have metered all the fuses under the dash aswell as under hood all check out. Where to go next ???
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My trailer wiring is not working, at least from what I can tell. Embarrassingly, I know this because the little brake light I have in my trailer hitch no longer lights up. I've tried different bulbs and a different unit, so it's definitely the wiring. I do not have access to a trailer right now, so unfortunately that's all I have to go on. It's plugged into the 4 pin jack. Is this something I should be going to the dealer for, or more like a blown/loose fuse or something?
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0. I had a flickering Battery lt on the dash last week so I replaced the Alternator. People recommended I upgrade to the 2005 140 amp alt from my stock 110. I have a single alt system. So I did, today it died on way to work. Batteries were drained. Had new alt checked and its fine. So All I have is a wiring diagram from 99-2002 but it shows the plug on the alt with 2 wires, Lt grn/red from switched ign and Org/Lt Blu which goes to batteries. Org/Lt blu has 12v but Lt green/Red has nothing with ign sw on. I did check fuse 45 in Central J box and have power there. I did notice I have no battery Lt on dash when you turn Ign sw on, and never got the Lt this morning when it died. What Im confused about is do I have a PCM? my diagrams that only go up to 2002 model show it for a 2 alt sys but not for a single alt. I should have power on Lt Grn/red with ign sw on correct? Everyone said 2005 alt was plug and play, the elec connector is now pointed down, where it was pointed up on the orig alt, look to be wired the same.
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I just bought the batteries I was asking about in this posting. Bought them at auto zone on my lunch hour today, they swapped them out right there in the lot, no problems. Watched carefully to make sure terminals were not crossed, etc. When I came out of work a few hours later, the #20 fuse for door locks was blown. I chalked it up to the battery change, and put a new fuse back when I got home. I come out an hour later to leave, and the fuse is blown again. I have not replaced it again, need to go get more of the proper amp rating.
No other changes to the truck other than the battery replacement. And that's the only anomaly. No other problems, nothing. Getting ready to head cross-country on a skiing trip, this Friday, so there really is no time to get to the dealer to get this looked at.
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I have a 2006 F250. Past two winters my batteries have died. Last yr., bought 2 new batteries and a new alternator. This winter, battries have been replaced twice. I only drive the truck maybe once a week, about 5 miles total. I live in Indiana and we have had many sub zero temps this yr. Its been in the shop all week, the mechanic states that they are finding an extremely small draw but cannot find where it is coming from. The mechanic is wondering if I am driving it enough. Any thoughts on this? Also my batteries came from auto zone, the mechanics thought it was bad that I had bought them from auto zone.....not sure if that should even be a factor....
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