I have a 04 F250 6.0L ,The center bolt that holds the a/c clutch to the compressor. I'm assuming that bolt needs to be tight, correct? Mine was loose when I looked at it last night. My a/c squeals for a while trying to engage. Also, is that bolt right or left hand threads? Can that clutch be replaced without removing the compressor?
View 9 RepliesThe clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
View 12 RepliesSearched with no results. What is the correct bolt torque for transmission pan bolts on a 2012 F350 6.7L?
View 14 Replies2006 F350 4X4 .. How in the heck do you get to it? I have that massive heat shield in the way and can't get a shot at even those bolts? One bolt left to get out then I can start going back together.
View 10 RepliesNeed to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
View 1 RepliesOn 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
I am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket.
View 12 RepliesI've experienced a fuel leak, I've checked all over, and the only thing I've came up with so far, was maybe its coming from the banjo bolt going into the front of the driver side head.. I cant really get to it good enough to tell though..
View 6 RepliesGot a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
So on my 2007 F250 My transmission dipstick is incredibly loose. I looked in the engine bay and it is not bolted to the block as it should be and I feel like it may not be entirely seated where it should be, if it is at all. There is a whole lot of wiggle room for, but I can't see anything to put it back in place.
I've done some searching and have yet to find a whole lot of anything on how to insert it back into its space from the engine bay, is it even reasonably doable?
Haven't asked a dealer what their price is to fix it, but I'm sure it will be astronomical so I'd rather try to remedy this on my own if possible, though I am currently at school so my access to tools and work space is relatively limited.
2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
View 14 RepliesCompressor continually clicks off and on..... No cold air.... Checked freon seems to be full.... Big line never gets cold?
View 10 RepliesSo the A/C compressor died on my truck. I am looking at replacing it myself and it looks rather tight in there. My labor manual says I have to pull the fan/fan clutch, fan shroud and right inner fender to gain access.
View 14 RepliesHave a rattle of the latch on their center console door? For the last few weeks I've had the rattle I thought was the cup holders but, today I found the culprit. Its the latch hook, the part that locks into the center console. Its somewhat loose. Every time it rattles and my wife is in the car she gives me that look.
How to open the latch cover? I don't see any screws and I really don't want to experiment on a new truck. I have to take it to the dealer to fix the reverse camera but I haven't had much luck with Ford dealers addressing rattles.
What is the secret to getting the rear center caps off a Dually Without scratching the hell out of them with the tire tool?
View 12 RepliesSo I just changed the oil on my truck I had a ford motorcraft filter on there and replaced it with a Fram filter ( only because that's what was on the shelf at the big W store ) I drove it to town and back once ( 35 miles round trip ) ...
I was going to add a trickle charger to my truck as It will be sitting for a while and I was laying under the front of the truck trying to fish the power cord down and I looked back and see I had Oil spray going down the center of my truck . So I thought dam my filters not tight as when I looked at it , had oil streaks coming down it. So I checked it was tight , would not move.
So I wiped if off with a rag and it looks to me as if the filter is leaking at the top seam . were the filter is crimped . There's not way I can take it off and take it back to the store. a filter that is oil soaked . I am going to replace it but before I do I am going to see if I can get the leak on video
Convert center console to a refrigerator? Seems like a pretty easy thing to do if you could find a 12v cooling element sold separately outside one of those portable 12v refrigerators. I've seen the OEM Ford kits to turn the console into a cooler by using ice, but I'd like to be able to cool via a 12v cooling element instead.
View 11 RepliesA couple of weeks ago, had a weird thing happen. When turning left at slow speed there was a click sound that came from the upper part of the steering column (similar to the sound you got with the indicators on in the old super duties when turning and it would go over the clockspring). It hasn't repeated the noise since.
Anyways, a week or so after this, I happened to try to use the buttons for my message center to reset my odo, which I rarely use. Didn't work. In fact all of the 5 buttons associated with the message center on the left side of my steering wheel are not working, but the cruise control buttons are. The buttons on the right side of the steering wheel are also working fine.
I am not sure if the noise in the steering column is related (but it has me suspicious...), or just coincidental, but wondered on peoples thoughts to diagnose. I pulled off the cover over the steering column, all the wires in and out of the clock spring look fine, I haven't pulled the switch yet (need to look at the service manual to make sure I don't break it as I do it), but wanted to see what was the diagnosis.