Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cannot Get Over 40 MPH When Pulling Out Of A Stop Sign
Apr 17, 2016
A couple months back I blew an EGR cooler. My mechanic replaced it and oil cooler, when I got the truck back it was using coolant and on cold days below 35 degrees it wont start without a little shot of ether. I took it back and mechanic found a pinched o ring.T he coolant problem is ok but cold starts not. Now today truck was running fine then as I was pulling out of a stop sign I couldnt get over 40 mph, I pulled over and then tried to go but no throttle response,then died and wouldn't restart .I have no way of scanning, no dash lights came on. I am wondering if this is related another o ring or gasket,hpop ,fuel problem??? just replaced all the injectors and ficm a little over a year ago.where should I start?
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So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
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Have a 2004 F250 crew cab with the notorious 6.0L.. ive noticed what i believe is my tranny or maybe torque converter.? What happens is when i back out the drive way and the go into drive, i hear and feel a rough loud clink down under even when im at a stop sign.. I am a first time truck and diesel owner due to my field of work. Also it has a rought time starting in the mornings or anytime the truck is completely cold. Then after it warms up it behaves like it should. also ill get on the throttle and when i come to a stop, the idle is rough and slowly comes back to normal. ...???
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Trying to troubleshoot a very intermittent (has happened on two different occasions during the last 1,000 miles) hesitation from a stop-light. I've been recording engine parameters (Torque application) on both instances as these have been during longer trips after a period of highway driving. 2004 Excursion, 112K miles.
This feels kind of like severe turbo hesitation (4 to 10 seconds trying to start out before it kicks in) but I don't think that's it. The turbo is a new PowerMax turbo replaced 5 months ago. VGT readings seem pretty normal. The EGR valve is new -- the first instance was with the old and the second was with the new. I've also recently replaced the EGR and Oil coolers (before this).
Here's what's interesting in the captured data though... Normally when I coast into a stop-light the indicated engine load stabilizes at about 40-50% and VGT moves to about 65% to 70% at idle. The two different times this happened (actually multiple times at stop-signs/light close to each other over 5 minutes or so for both of these), when I have coasted to the stop, the engine load increases from low values during coast-down (0% during freeway coast-down or 19-30% during other coast) up to 99.6% (or other similar high values) at idle and VGT seems to be full closed at 85%.
There is absolutely no response to the throttle in this situation for 5-10 seconds. I've either been goosing the throttle a bit or putting it neutral and revving it up first to get things going again. When it finally catches and starts accelerating with power, indicated engine load drops to 50-60% again and VGT opens up to 40-60% or so. None of the other parameters I've been capturing seem to read strangely during this that I recognize. No issues observed during cruise and power seems good. No pending DTCs or engine light.
Here's what the data points I'm capturing (once each second):
Boost
Calibration Input Volts
ECT
EOT
Fan RPM
FICM main volts
Fuel Injector pulse width
ICP
ICP Volts
IPR Duty cycle
RPM
Engine Load
MAP
Trans Temp
VGT Duty Cycle
EBP
EGR Commanded
EGR Error
Added today but not captured during these issues yet:
IAT
IAT2
Baro
Accel Pedal Position
Mass Airflow Rate
Mass Fuel Desired
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The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
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After replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
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Was trying to give back to FTE, all have been useful. So I figure I would post a problem solver. Had a nice oil leak traced to cam sensor o ring. All back together now crank no start.
Truck is half in and out of the garage, torque pro isn't pulling any codes. I did accidentally pull my alternator cable out of the connector, luckily had one to replace.
Did I wreck the sensor taking it out? Will have to try and pull the beast out tonight.
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2011 ford f350, 200,000 miles. I was getting an antifreeze spray on the windshield while pulling and going up a hill. It was from exhaust pressure going into the coolant system. It was building over 16 psi and blowing out the degas bottle.
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A Little Background, my FICM wasn't bad per se but it would dip below 45 volts when the outside temp was around freezing. I pulled it and sent it for repair at the same time the Atlas 40 tune was loaded into the FICM.
First few days of driving mileage was better, truck ran great. All of a sudden one day pulling into the driveway it randomly shutoff. Two occasions since it has acted goofy at started, bucking a little a low throttle. Mileage has returned to how it was before I had the FICM fixed and ATLAS tune applied. To this point I had no codes at all.
Now today it randomly throws P0341 - Camshaft sensor out of range.
So heres the question - do I replace the sensor or try to get at the harness for inspection? Out of range would usually mean the sensor itself is failing while open circuit is usually wiring related. I know its uncommon for this particular sensor to fail but i'm not sure which direction to go.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L Powerstroke. While towing my RV this weekend in 96 degree weather, it appeared that my transmission started to whine after several minutes of pulling some large hills. I was in tow/haul mode. It did not appear that I was loosing power however the sound was very concerning. The sound went away after leveling off, or switching out of tow/haul mode. The sound coincidentally appeared as I approached the top of the hills which ranged from 1 to 3 miles in length.
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Got stuck, noticed when in four wheel drive only the front passenger side and rear passenger side was pulling. Is that normal? Or should both fronts be pulling?
2011 f350 dually 4x4 6.7.....
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I have an 06 crew short bed 4x4 238k miles ... It just started out of nowhere pulling from side to side. I got home and as i made the turn onto my street I felt the whole front end shift as I was turning almost like a knot in the steering i popped my head under and saw a greasy gear box everything else looks ok.
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The thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
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After my recent cooling system upgrade and power steering pump/HP hose replacement I am still hearing and feeling the power steering whine. I flushed the fluid and used Mercon V ATF fluid. I jacked the front end up with tires off the ground and cycled the steering lock to lock 100 times or more now and the whine does not stop. Do I need to put a vacuum on the system and try to purge it that way? There was no whine before but I just replaced the pump while I had room with everything out of the way and replaced the high pressure line because the fitting was leaking at the pump. This is very irritating because I thought replacing the pump would be beneficial.
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So I am not sure exactly what is going on with my truck. It is a 2004 F250 has a 6.0 L. Sometimes when I take off from a stop the truck has no power and blows some black smoke. Then the turbo kicks in and all is fine. It comes and goes when it pleases no matter the temperature. What started happening is when I drive it a steady pace on the highway sometimes the turbo gets quieter and louder and quieter and louder sometimes when it gets quieter I see a little bit of black coming out of the tailpipe. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Also sometimes when I let off the gas the truck sounds like it's trying to laugh at me like a wastegate is fluttering.
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I have rain sensitive wipers completely dry wipers wont stop?
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Garage tells me tranny is working well. The problem seems to be worse when engine is cold. When pulling away from a stop, sounds like a toaster is being shaken under the hood with a loss of power...leaving 2nd into 3rd. Are there any other engine parts i should be testing?
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I am changing fuel filters for the first time. I started by draining the DFCM into a quart container, but after that filled up 6 times I switched to a bucket. So far I have drained over 2 gallons and it shows no signs of stopping. Initially the truck was on a slight incline. That's the way I have always done fuel filters, with the tank lower than the filter. After the first gallon came out, I rolled the truck down to level ground.
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There's a lot to love about the new diesel trucks, but the idiot bells and chimes are driving me nuts! I don't need to be reminded that my key is in the ignition, my brake is engaged, my belt is disconnected or my truck is in reverse. How can I disable all these incredibly irritating chimes and gongs? Man, I sure miss the simple idiot features of the early 80's. They were so easy to eliminate with one wire snip... This bothers us enough to make us regret buying the truck, especially when we're running lots of short errands, because we get to go through all the chime rituals every few minutes. We're not getting used to it.
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My 2012 f250 is been acting weird, usually the truck is boosting while on gear when I'm at a stop (around 0.40) I think that's normal on a 6.7 because it's always done it, but since yesterday I noticed it sounds different and it's not on boost anymore it just vacuums while on gear at a stop (around -0.25) I'm thinking it's the wastegate solenoid but I'm not 100% sure, and the truck doesn't boost as fast as before but it drives fine and I'm actually getting better gas mileage since it doesn't boost as before, what it could be? It's tuned and deleted....
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2005 6.0L... Driving to work today, doing about 70mph looked down at the gauges and the tach was reading just above 1k the whole time. Even when I accelerated hard.
Got off the highway and came to a stop light and the tach went below zero (almost rested on top of the boost gauge) light turns green goes up to about 1k but no higher even though I stepped into it a bit.
Got to work and turned the truck off and then turned it back on and the tack started working again.
No mods to the truck other then a stereo system attached to the factory stereo wiring harness. I called the stealership and of course they want the truck to look at. I am curious if it is going to work or not on the way home.
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