Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Bypass Oil Filter?
Feb 27, 2017
I had pretty much ruled out getting a bypass oil filter because I've read multiple times that the HEUI injectors of a 6.0 liter shears the oil regardless of filtration so that you shouldn't run extended oil change intervals even with the extra filtration. I'm wondering though if the cleaner oil would benefit the lifters and injectors within the regular oil change intervals, and if what I read before is correct about the shearing and not running extended oil change intervals. If I could run to say 7500 miles and it was better for the lifters and injectors than not running a bypass and changing oil at 5000 miles, then I might say it would justify it. I hear more and more about lifters in the 6.0 and want to everything I can to keep them operable.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I just replaced my factory oil cooler again, and my bypass oil filter came loose spraying 8 quarts of oil all over under the hood.
This is the second time it has done this. Both times my wife was driving so i don't know how it was running prior to this.
Now i think my oil cooler seal to the block is blown again! Just like the last time my bypass oil filter came loose.
Could this be a symptom of another problem?
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IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
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Opinions of the bypass filtration? I've heard some opinions that since the HUEI injectors shear the oil so badly that there is no benefit to the bypass filtration since you can't run extended intervals. I asked a reputable shop that pretty much all drive and maintain 6.0's and build parts for them, and they said it reduces the chances of stiction, improves lifter lubrication and thus lifespan, and can actually increase the intervals. Does that sound legit and justify the kit if I plan to own it until it dies?
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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OK what is the trick to changing the oil filter on the 6.7 without making a mess. My last truck, which was another brand, if I would let the truck sit for a couple of hours, I could get the filter loose, put a zip lock bag around the filter, & remove the filter without any drips. With the 6.7, even if I let the truck sit overnite, it seems like the oil doesn't drain from above the filter, & as soon as it comes loose my hand gets a bath. Any tricks to changing the oil filter.
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Ok so the speakership wants 200 bucks to replace and the filter alone is 100 bucks. Found some at auto zone for 65 and 85 or so. How often do you change your filter and where do you buy them?
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Can I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
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Can I replace my n/g oil filter that is defective w/o draining oil? I did oil change and filter is leaking, bad gasket. If I remove oil filter will it only drain what is in filter or entire engine?
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Within the last month I've had 2 cracked fuel filters the filter up by the engine...
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I pulled my air filter for inspection last weekend. The 6.7L airbox is segmented into two parts - One part is very large and contains the pleated paper air filter, as well as the air intake in the base. The other part is small and contains a half-section of the pleated filter, with a fine foam filter below. However, the foam extends out through a sizable hole in the bottom of the small compartment and runs down outside of the box nearly to the base of the entire air box (held on by some plastic straps).
What is the purpose of the foam and "secondary" air intake? Why not simply use one compartment with the paper air filter?
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New to me 2006 F350 6.0 dually. Going to change oil and filter as well as the transmission fluid.
Should I replace the transmission filter on the Auto I have or just have Jiffy Lube do their thing?
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I use motor craft filters on all my fords but I'm considering jumping ship on my 6.7l... Here's why:
Even with a small punch that is just shy of the total length of the filter, I still get a boat load of oil leaking out the side of the filter when I unscrew it. I'm pretty sure the anti drain back valve is still holding oil in the filter mount...which is what it is supposed to do.
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How many miles typically getting out of air filters? I kept watching the air filter gauge and never saw it changing as the miles added up. I'm at 22k miles now and finally opened it up and looked at it and decided it was time for the first change even though the gauge was not indicating it needed to be.
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Shot in HD as are all my vids, view in YouTube and force a 720p view to see better detail.
(Tap the title bar at the top of the video box; at YouTube tap the three vertical dots at the top right; select the quality gear icon; select 720p).
Over at TDS I did pictorials, some of which are in my TMT Facebook page.
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I spoke with a Ford diesel tech yesterday that said that he doesn't like coolant filters because if you don't change them frequently they will degrade and pieces of filter medium will then clog the oil cooler. If this is true, then that would completely negate the purpose of the coolant filter. I'm hopeful that it is flawed thinking as I am using a coolant filter system and would hate to find that it was a mistake.
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Well I finally had time to change out my composite oil pan to the metal one. Nothing was wrong with the old one but Ive seen the composite pans get hit by a rock and crack so I decide to get the metal one. It didnt take long once I had the oil drained and its very easy to get to. Once i had the old pan off I did find two piece of sludge stuck to the oil pickup screen, they had a sliver of aluminum in them. My oil reports have been coming back with high aluminum content so I am not really sure what to think being my motor had 33k miles on it now.
I also changed out the fuel filter and when I dropped the frame mounted filter I found about a teaspoon of rust in it. I'm not one to run my truck down to E but I admit I did so twice since the last filter change. Since I found the fuel filter kit for 60 buck(ford dealer wanted $140) I think I will move my fuel filter changes to 10k miles instead of 15k. Last but not least I also added SPE 6.7 Full Lock Diff Kit which allows the locked rear end to stay engaged past 20 mph. It was a simple 10 min installation with just a few wires and easy directions to follow
New oil pan
Composite pan
Old pan off and view of oil pickup
Two pieces of sludge that came off oil pickup screen
New pan on
Rust in the bottom
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While driving from SD to Chicago today 2 warnings popped up at the same time saying to change the oil and fuel filters. Had both done 2500 miles ago. Am I right that the Dealer just didn't reset these? I thought these were measured by miles and driving habits.
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I got fuel running dn from top fuel filter it looks like an filter hasn't been changed in a long while what could have happen?
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I was going to change the fuel filter on my truck yesterday, but couldn't figure out how the guard comes off. It has a bolt but it also has a rivet in it and looks like its all one piece so Id have to drill the rivet to remove. I tried to just spin the housing off.
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