Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brakes Normal Under Light Braking But Weak During Fast Stop


Mar 17, 2017

My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.

Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.

I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:

1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.

2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.

3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.

It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.

I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.

It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Check Engine Light That Came On / EGR Volts Weak

Truck had a check engine light that came on. Plugged in scanner while I was still running it, said egr volts were weak, i just cleaned it yesterday.. and earlier today reset the check engine light once but then drove about 30 miles with no reoccurrence of light. Now i pulled over, shut off truck unplugged egr and reconnected. Went back to start my truck and nothing at all. Its like I am trying to start it in park.....been here for about 3 hrs now I've checked fuses nothing is blown. I am just sitting here freezing trying to fig out anything i can on line....... Its a 2006 f350 6.0 ty

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Normal To Stop Regen When It Gets To 25% Or Should It Be Stopping At 0%

I know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Weak HPOP / High Pressure Oil Leak?

My 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....

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Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1995 F250 Truck Does Not Stop Fast Enough When Hit The Brakes

My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced

1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders

Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Alternator Warning Light And Lose Power Steering Soon After Brakes Got Stiff

I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.

For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.

Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...

For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Tachometer Went Below Zero When Got Off The Highway And Came To A Stop Light

2005 6.0L... Driving to work today, doing about 70mph looked down at the gauges and the tach was reading just above 1k the whole time. Even when I accelerated hard.

Got off the highway and came to a stop light and the tach went below zero (almost rested on top of the boost gauge) light turns green goes up to about 1k but no higher even though I stepped into it a bit.

Got to work and turned the truck off and then turned it back on and the tack started working again.

No mods to the truck other then a stereo system attached to the factory stereo wiring harness. I called the stealership and of course they want the truck to look at. I am curious if it is going to work or not on the way home.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Misfire / Chugging Usually At A Stop Light?

I've got an '04 6.0 that's recently developed an engine performance issue and I was hoping to get some leads on what to chase down this weekend. The truck has 75,000 miles on it and has been trouble-free since new when it comes to the motor. Recently I've noticed that, usually at a stop light, the idle will occasionally get very rough and the normal diesel "clatter" noise becomes rather rough sounding- almost like every other "clatter" disappears if that makes any sense. Up until last night this was happening very infrequently and usually only for a couple of seconds. I wasn't really sure what the issue was then and would rev the truck in neutral and the issue would go away. This has happened a handful of times in the last month or so.

I drive a company car all week and the truck only gets used in the evenings and on the weekends, and last night my wife and I drove it to dinner. The truck cranked and started normally and was operating smoothly until we got out of our neighborhood (about a mile of driving), then the rough running condition described above surfaced and continued throughout the 7 or 8 mile drive. This was the first time that it ran like this for more than a few seconds. The truck was running bad enough that you could feel the misfire or 'chugging' at speed. When the truck would shift into overdrive and the torque converter went into full lock-up, you could really feel this as the engine was lugging. I tried to keep the truck out of overdrive because it was shaking the truck pretty badly. When we came out of the restaurant I thought maybe the issue would be gone but it did it all the way home as well. Throughout both drives the Check Engine Light did not come on.

When I got home I got my DiabloSport Predator because I remembered it has a code scanner in it. I have never checked for codes before so I do not know if these are fresh codes, but there is a P0282 Cyl 8 Injector Circuit Low and a P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete in there.

While I was in the driveway with the engine idling badly for a few minutes, the issue completely went away and the truck smoothed out for a few minutes. It was like someone flipped a switch and the truck instantly ran properly. After a couple of minutes however, the issue instantly returned. I tried to clear the codes with the Predator but they will not go away. I am not sure how solid of a scan tool the Predator is????

I did a lot of searching on here last night because this is bugging me, and the symptoms I saw on here about the ICP sensor make total sense based on what I am experiencing. People were describing to a 'T' what I am experiencing. However, I do not have an ICP sensor code and when I searched for the P0282 that I do have I read about FICM issues here.

The rundown on the truck- '04 F-250 CC 4x4, truck was bought 10-03 and I THINK I remember the build date as 9/03 (maybe 8/03). Automatic transmission, DiabloSport Predator with 60hp tune, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, everything else stock. Oil was changed about 4,000 miles ago, both fuel filters done about 2,500 miles ago.

A few questions:

Could the ICP be my issue even though there is no code for it? Could the P0282 be coming from an ICP issue?

I've read about early '04 trucks having '03 motors and something about an updated harness for the ICP- could I get more info?

Is my truck part of the affected group with the wire-chafing I read a little about? If so, could that be causing this and what should I look for?

Does the P0282 immediately point to a FICM issue?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - When Idling At A Stop Light It Might Go Down To 95 For A Few Seconds

My 05 has Glowshift gauges on the window pillar. All are analog except the digital fuel pressure gauge. It almost always reads 102 and that can't be right. Sometimes when idling at a stop light it might go down to 95 for a few seconds. Maybe wire grounding out from sensor?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: White Smoke Only When Leaving A Stop Light

Turbo def needed rebuilt, unison ring was worn out. Ton of carbon build up also. Was leaking oil too. Rebuilt it, good to go now.

Egr cooler wasn't leaking and was plugged on the one end. Got the IPR kit installed, nice kit. Re sealed the oil cooler at the same time. CCV re route done.

Here is the kicker. It still SMOKES!!! Only when leaving a stop light. There was quite a bit of oil in the turbo piping. I cleaned that all out. Could it still be oil in the intercooler and it just needs times to get blown out? Or??? I did a power balance test, cylinder contribution test, injector kill test, and etc all passed.

Maybe hook the boat up pull a 6% grade and get all that blown out?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Odometer Is Reading Fast

I recently bought this Ford F250 6 with 117k... I've had it 3 weeks and it is now at 120k... My Odometer is reading Fast. From Tucson to Phoenix it read 302 mi, on my trip monitor it read 102 mi.. I've made this trip many times before and 102 miles is about right. It's a big issue because I get paid by the mile.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cooling Fan Spun Too Fast

My truck was parked at home and hadn't been started for 10 days. When I did start it for the first time, I heard the cooling fan spooling up or down, consistent with the engine rpm. After pulling away from my home I saw the fan speed spool up to near 2,800 rpm during the short period it was locked-in with the engine speed.

While driving out of my neighborhood, and about 1/3 of a mile from my house, the fan returned to normal speed of about 480 rpm. I have the FSS pid displayed on my Scangauge and was able to see the fan speed while hearing it. Now I know what the fan sounds like at a high rpm. It makes quite a roar.

This has never happened before. I've driven the truck a few times since then and it hasn't occurred again. What may have caused this?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Intermittent Hesitation After Stopping At Light / Stop-sign

Trying to troubleshoot a very intermittent (has happened on two different occasions during the last 1,000 miles) hesitation from a stop-light. I've been recording engine parameters (Torque application) on both instances as these have been during longer trips after a period of highway driving. 2004 Excursion, 112K miles.

This feels kind of like severe turbo hesitation (4 to 10 seconds trying to start out before it kicks in) but I don't think that's it. The turbo is a new PowerMax turbo replaced 5 months ago. VGT readings seem pretty normal. The EGR valve is new -- the first instance was with the old and the second was with the new. I've also recently replaced the EGR and Oil coolers (before this).

Here's what's interesting in the captured data though... Normally when I coast into a stop-light the indicated engine load stabilizes at about 40-50% and VGT moves to about 65% to 70% at idle. The two different times this happened (actually multiple times at stop-signs/light close to each other over 5 minutes or so for both of these), when I have coasted to the stop, the engine load increases from low values during coast-down (0% during freeway coast-down or 19-30% during other coast) up to 99.6% (or other similar high values) at idle and VGT seems to be full closed at 85%.

There is absolutely no response to the throttle in this situation for 5-10 seconds. I've either been goosing the throttle a bit or putting it neutral and revving it up first to get things going again. When it finally catches and starts accelerating with power, indicated engine load drops to 50-60% again and VGT opens up to 40-60% or so. None of the other parameters I've been capturing seem to read strangely during this that I recognize. No issues observed during cruise and power seems good. No pending DTCs or engine light.

Here's what the data points I'm capturing (once each second):

Boost
Calibration Input Volts
ECT
EOT
Fan RPM
FICM main volts
Fuel Injector pulse width
ICP
ICP Volts
IPR Duty cycle
RPM
Engine Load
MAP
Trans Temp
VGT Duty Cycle
EBP
EGR Commanded
EGR Error

Added today but not captured during these issues yet:

IAT
IAT2
Baro
Accel Pedal Position
Mass Airflow Rate
Mass Fuel Desired

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F250 - Truck Not Move When Stop At Light Or For Any Reason

I have a 2005 Ford F-250 Powerstroke. At times when stopping at light or for any reason, I give it gas but it does not want to go. It's like it is not even registering that I am pushing the pedal. I shift it into neutral and rev it up then switch it back to drive and it goes and puffs out smoke. What is going on?

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Fast Idle When Cold Remote Start

Fast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.

It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.

And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.

My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Turbo Up To 30 Psi Normal?

My truck is all stock and I am running in performance tune? And my friend the former owner said I need to let her loose about 75 percent of the time I am driving it because it's my DD and I do not tow anything on a regular basis. I do not want to stretch my bolts by unnecessary pushing, I don't know if I'm even pushing it hard but I normally get the turbo up to about 30 psi is that to much?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Died And Coasted To A Stop - Theft Light Blinking / No Start

I was driving home tonight and stopped at stop sign. I took off and truck died and coasted to a stop. I tried to start but all it does is theft light blinks really fast and will not turn motor over. I tried to reset pat by following procedure I found on internet. Still no start. I then unhooked battery cables and left off for 15 minutes then hooked up but still no start and blinking theft light. I also tried spare key and still no start. What else can I do. I had it towed to place that just bulletproof my truck. Truck has been running great. I did not want to leave it on the side off road in the middle of country all night.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Normal ICP Readings?

I have an early 04, I'm not sure if there's a different in pressure over the years. But I'm curious what normal or average readings are. Btw I did replace the icp and pig tail last year. Here is what I have in psi from my sct

Cold start at idle 680 .23v
Warm idle 635 .24v
Cruising 1800rpms about 1500 .32v
WOT about 4200 .78v

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Getting Rear Sway At All - Normal?

I wasn't sure if I should be having any sway at all while pulling our new 30' TT. Dry wieght is 7200lbs, GVW is right at 9500lbs, tongue weight is around 800lbs, and I'm running a Fastway E2 WDH with sway control built in. While towing this weekend, I was experiencing a very slight amount of sway. It wasn't what I considered to be much of an issue but my wife and daughter both asked why the truck felt as if it was moving side to side slightly. When I say slightly, imagine a small glass of water filled about 1/4" from the top. The sway wouldn't have been enough to spill the water, but enough to sway it slightly back and forth. Winds were about 3-8mph hitting me from the north west (in relations to my trucks heading).

I do have some suspension enhancements that might have contributed to the sway. I have roughly increased the rear end by 4" by adding add-a-leafs and F350 blocks. I have Fox 2.0 shocks and a Helwig Bigwig sway bar. Plus I'm running 295 Nitto Trail grapplers , all 4 at 80psi. I've read that the more aggressive tires could also be a contributor.

My question ultimately is: should I be feeling any sway at all? Is a very slight amount of sway normal when pulling a 30' 9500lb rear hitch pull?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Normal To Take Awhile To Warm Up?

It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Horns Are Backwards - Normal?

Decided to try and swap in LED bulbs into the sub par factory headlights and since some engineer somewhere decided it would be easier for me to have to remove the grill and headlights just to change a bulb, I noticed that the dual horn set up had the horns pointing back to the truck. Even worse, right in front of all the fins on the CAC, Raidator, etc. to reduce muffle the sound.

Now I don't know how things are where you live, but generally when I honk at someone, I'm not doing it so I can hear my own horn. The general idea I thought was so that others could hear my horn.

Of course the same engineers in charge of headlight bulb swaps also figured out the wiring for the horns so you can't just loosen the nuts (10 mm) and rotate said horns 180 degrees. You can rotate the driver side horn 180 degrees and call it good, but the factory wiring won't reach the passenger side horn if you rotate it.

You can however remove both horns and use a small screwdriver to unplug the harness that joins the two horns. If you swap the horns right to left and left to right, then you can put the factory wiring back together in a manner that leaves the horn outlets pointing forward towards others.

I can't insert pics into the thread as I describe things. I used to do that but FTE seems to have gotten rid of my gallery so I can't upload to there anymore and then post photos in the thread that way. So now you get them uploaded as attachments at the end of my rambling.

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