Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brake Pedal Hitting Floor?
Feb 7, 2017
On my way into work this morning I had one of those everybody needs to stop NOW moments. Hit the brakes hard, really hard with wheels chirping and all, after i got mostly slowed down the pedal gave way and went to the floor. I let up and pushed again and they were fine, but at that point I didn't need to hit them that hard again. The rest of the way in they worked fine braking normally, and before hand as well.
I'm thinking the master cylinder is going bad. Any tips on diagnosing for sure?
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Ever since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
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Trying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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I have an 04 6.0 psd and if I am stopped in drive with the brake pedal down I can't turn my steering wheel at all. If the truck is in park and my foot off the brake pedal I can turn the steering wheel both ways just fine. When I am driving I don't have any problems with the steering. I have checked the power steering fluid and it is full. This makes it kind of hard when I am trying to pull in and out of parking spots. What could be causing this and what the solution would be to fix it?
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I have an ABS issue. Coming off the free way ramp my abs will engage when I apply the brake peddle. This only happens turning right. doing the same to the left seems to feel something but not as apparent as to the right. I have no ABS light on and no code.
Last year I replaced the left front wheel hub. but didn't have any issues until this. One more thing I was getting a feeling on my brake pedal last week as if my front rotors needed to be replaced. So I did. Rotors and pads. still feel the same. could my rear rotors need replacing as well?
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I have an issue with my 2011 SD. When i press on the brake pedal I get a message saying I have a trailer connected and then when I step on the brake pedal again it says trailer disconnected. This happens every time I touch the brake pedal. I have replaced the trailer connector 7 way plug thinking that was the issue to no avail.
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Your breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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What is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
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The problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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I have a AC Delco 3 1/2 ton that will blead down faster than I could get a jack stand under the truck. Not that I've tried. Just curious where to go from here without wasting more money.
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This is my first winter with my 05 F250 that has the 4wd controls on the floor. I'm just trying to figure out the proper way to put in in and out of 4wd. I did some reading and everyone talks about engaging the hubs, but my truck seems to have automatic hubs because the selector Is not on the outside of the hubs. Am I missing something obvious or am I just reading the wrong things. When I bought it at the end of summer, we tried 4wd out but only for a second and it would grind and be generally unhappy when we were doing it (while driving slow, and complete stop to go to low).
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No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
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My dad is having problems with his truck, brake pedal goes all the way to the floor even after bleeding all the brakes and the master cylinder. The wheel cylinder didn't have clips in it and he fixed it and it hasnt changed. What do we do? Its a 1993 f150 4.9l.....
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I have a 2003 F-150 supercrew 4x4, was having problems with the brake pedal going to the floor, had replaced the front calipers, master cylinder and the brake booster. I have blead everything out including the rear calipers even though I didn`t touch them, the truck stops but the pedal isn't what it used to be, even when the truck is off the pedal has a tendency to go down, there is nothing leaking and not losing fluid, don`t know what else to do?
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I did a complete rebuild of my brake system in April. Drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, hoses, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, proportioner valve and flushed all the lines and refilled with synthetic fluid. I have made five trips from Southern California to Idaho hauling home furnishings, one trip to Oregon and one trip to Northern California since overhauling the brakes with everything working great. Now something strange is happening. The brake pedal goes to the floor with very little resistance. It isn't spongy like there is air in the lines. It just goes to the floor if you push it all the way down.
The truck stops ok but it is really scary with the pedal going down like that. You can feel when the rear brakes come on because there is a little resistance in the pedal when they come on. You can actually lock the rear brakes up and skid the rear tires. If you push the pedal down further the front brakes start coming on and if you push all the way to the floor the truck will nosedive and you will get planted in the windshield.
I wonder if the aftermarket Bronco Graveyard proportioner valve is blowing all the pressure to the rear wheels because it won't do it if you take the vacuum off of the vacuum booster. You have full pedal when the booster is deactivated and all the wheels operate normally with the exception of having to plant both feet on the pedal to stop it.
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2005 f250 240,000 mile has been hard starting a couple of days in the low 20's. Fires and stalls, got it start the first time it acted up but had to long crack with throttle to the floor. A week later would not start at all again fired and stalled. Plugged it in for 2 hours and fired right up. I had the FICM replace at about 150K and all glow plugs at 130K I will check it this weekend. Am I looking at another ficm or something else? Whats the trick to getting them started when they fire and stall. Need to go on a trip and can't plug truck in at airport and temps will be in the teens next week!
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After a recent front brake caliper replacement, the brakes work great except that when moderate pressure is continually applied to the brake pedal, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. While driving down the road, when the brake pedal is depressed, the brakes engage right where you expect them to, and the van stops just fine, even if the stop is extreme. There is no air in the brake lines. The front calipers have been replaced twice, the back brake cylinders replaced, the master cylinder replaced, the RABS valve replaced, all by a certified shop trying to address this issue.
I spoke with the service manager at a local Ford dealer in Seattle and he was aware of the problem and said that there is no solution. He said the brakes will work fine. He couldn't explain to me however, why this happens. If the van is not running, the brake pedal holds firm, so I assume the problem has something to do with either the ABS system or the power assist, but I can't say for sure. I can live with this since the van stops great. What is mechanically going on that allows the brake pedal to go to the floor even though the brakes are fully engaged after the pedal is depressed say a third to a half way down to the floor.
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