Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brake Fluid Filter In Reservoir
Jun 16, 2016
In my brake fluid reservoir I have a little blue filter that looks like an upside down bottle cap. the bottom of it has a fine screen so as you pour fluid in it filters. Is this a standard feature or did the previous owner add this? Where I can get a replacement as this one has a hole in it. I accidentally got it with a screw driver.
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I have a new *to me* 2005 F250 and last night I noticed there is a leak around the brake fluid reservoir where it connects to the frame of the truck. Everything seems to be in good order not sure exactly whats causing the leak. It only when driving and for a short while after shutting the truck down, everything seems to be in good order but still it drips a lot.
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About a week after my wreck I got the Parking brake light and the message brake fluid level low. The fluid level is fine and I read some other threads where people said the vacuum system was connected somehow. I knew the ESOF didn't work so I replaced the broken line and nothing changed, except the ESOF works now.
Anyway I can't for the life of me find a replacement sensor, part number or anything.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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2002 camry: my boyfriend just told me he accidentally added power steering fluid to the brake reservoir a couple monthes ago....while i floored it on highway, i only reached 40, when let off gas, car came to a quick stop. later i jacked up rear and was able to turn back tires to rule out e-brake being stuck,when car is in nuetral and pushed (forward or backward) it comes to a stop whithin a foot or so ( it seemed like the brakes were being depressed) possible transmission or brake issue?
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I did not run the truck for 5 months and the engine will not crank. I charged the batteries but when I turn the key nothing happen, I hear the glow plug system going but nothing else, starter does not click at all.
One thing that scares me is that there is no coolant left in the reservoir and I am scared that it went in the engine. I did have to add coolant last summer.
How can I first test the starter? Can I turn the engine by hand? If I push the truck, does the engine turn and can I tow it without damaging the engine if it is hydrolocked?
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Have been working on military diesels for years. I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0. I am currently waiting for a new oil cooler as I have oil coming from my coolant reservoir and no coolant in my crank. My question is I have been having my engine light coming on and off intermittently since deleting my EGR cooler.
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I've gone through every possible step in diagnosing myself but can't seem to figure it out. I do not have access to shop air to do an air test. Vehicle history that I know of: Has updated STC fitting, looks to be a reman hpop. I have tested the LPOP with the oil filter housing, fills quite fast, although no pressure registers while cranking on the gauge. When I opened the HPOP case to take a look, I found the reservoir dry. What can cause the LPOP to not feed the HPOP? I will be updating everything. The truck has relatively low KMs sitting at only 163,000.
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Early 70's Ford truck. The brake MC fluid is filled but not overfilled, and doesn't leak at all when the truck is parked. It can sit there for a month and never leak a drop, parked. But when I drive the truck, even just around the block, then park, and look inside the engine compartment immediately the brake MC is dripping brake fluid. It appears the leaking mode is by the fluid somehow jumping up and coming over the top edge of the MC when the truck is in motion or when the brakes are applied. All my diy'er years of replacing brake master cylinders on Ford Galaxies, VW Rabbits, Corollas, and this truck, I've never seen this kind of weird brake problem before. On this MC design it seems there's sort of a rubber baffle inside the lid of the MC, and that's present and accounted for.
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Traveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
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I have never noticed before but today I noticed the fluid inside the brake reservoir was bubbling or splashing around , whichever.What would cause this. I did just finish up on an intake manifold gasket replacement job. Drove for the first time today and that's when i noticed the 'bubbles'.
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The 2003 Ex. Made it back home last week after a couple years at college. .. registration sticker expired last June! Drivers side mirror "taped" on. Rear bumper cover torn in half w/ a few screws holding it on.
Busted out foglight & small tear in bumper cover above it.
Brake light on - noticed fluid low & cap not seated correctly. One of the tabs that hold the cap in place is broken... new reservoir under $20 at rockauto. Looking for a write up or better to replace entire master cylinder?
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1968 C-850 Super Duty. Cannot find the brake fluid reservoir on this Hahn Firetruck.
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I'm new to the diesel scene and I'm having trouble here i just replaced the head gaskets and did the head studs, also the EGR delete with oil cooler done all by me at home because I'm low on cash and the truck was pouring coolant through the turbo before due to overheating and bad egr and blown head gaskets i didn't have the heads checked before i installed them because I'm broke now and I need my truck but it wont start now and continues to spit and smoke coolant out the reservoir.
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I bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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OK what is the trick to changing the oil filter on the 6.7 without making a mess. My last truck, which was another brand, if I would let the truck sit for a couple of hours, I could get the filter loose, put a zip lock bag around the filter, & remove the filter without any drips. With the 6.7, even if I let the truck sit overnite, it seems like the oil doesn't drain from above the filter, & as soon as it comes loose my hand gets a bath. Any tricks to changing the oil filter.
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I had pretty much ruled out getting a bypass oil filter because I've read multiple times that the HEUI injectors of a 6.0 liter shears the oil regardless of filtration so that you shouldn't run extended oil change intervals even with the extra filtration. I'm wondering though if the cleaner oil would benefit the lifters and injectors within the regular oil change intervals, and if what I read before is correct about the shearing and not running extended oil change intervals. If I could run to say 7500 miles and it was better for the lifters and injectors than not running a bypass and changing oil at 5000 miles, then I might say it would justify it. I hear more and more about lifters in the 6.0 and want to everything I can to keep them operable.
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Ok so the speakership wants 200 bucks to replace and the filter alone is 100 bucks. Found some at auto zone for 65 and 85 or so. How often do you change your filter and where do you buy them?
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My brake fluid reservoir is real flimsy. I was checking fluids and noticed when I touched it, It felt like it was going to fall off.
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