Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brake Fluid Level Sensor
Nov 20, 2016
About a week after my wreck I got the Parking brake light and the message brake fluid level low. The fluid level is fine and I read some other threads where people said the vacuum system was connected somehow. I knew the ESOF didn't work so I replaced the broken line and nothing changed, except the ESOF works now.
Anyway I can't for the life of me find a replacement sensor, part number or anything.
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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Installed a 65 Gal Titan Tank the other day. I Finally got a chance to fill her up all the way.. well as much as i could.
My Level sensor is not functioning and I was only able to put in a total of 160 Liters when it should have been right around 246L.
My question is this : I need to syphon my tank now. Is there anything preventing me from doing that or will a 1/2 hose work?
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In my brake fluid reservoir I have a little blue filter that looks like an upside down bottle cap. the bottom of it has a fine screen so as you pour fluid in it filters. Is this a standard feature or did the previous owner add this? Where I can get a replacement as this one has a hole in it. I accidentally got it with a screw driver.
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I have a new *to me* 2005 F250 and last night I noticed there is a leak around the brake fluid reservoir where it connects to the frame of the truck. Everything seems to be in good order not sure exactly whats causing the leak. It only when driving and for a short while after shutting the truck down, everything seems to be in good order but still it drips a lot.
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Stopped after a hard pull and noticed I had coolant dripping off the front sensor on the Brake Master cylinder. Coolant level was down in the Degas bottle. Searched everywhere for the source of the leak, and couldn't see anything. Today the drip had stopped, but when I squeezed the rear heater return hose under the Degas bottle it appeared to have a wet spot form.
I'm thinking I have a very tiny pin hole, and plan on pressurizing the system to see if I can determine for sure this is where it is. Before I do though, where this high pressure leak might be coming from? Degas bottle and cap is less than a year old. Doesn't appear to be any signs of leaks around the clamps. That rear heater hose.
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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My engine oil level is reading three inches above the full mark on the dip stick. Do you think there could be diesel fuel or water in the oil system? Notice that the dip stick is not that easy to read. Could this be related to my poor fuel mileage? It can't be doing my engine any good.
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I recently noticed a small bead of coolant on the driver's side of my tie rod coupled with low primary coolant level, so I took it to the dealer expecting to face a radiator issue (50k miles). Instead they said that the lower radiator hose was leaking and recommended replacement. Thinking that we were still headed down the radiator path, I had them do the job.
Upon inspecting the removed hose, I could find no obvious fault, so I inquired further. They clarified that it was the seal which had failed (I guess replacing the entire hose is the fix for this?), that it was contaminants that build up in the coolant which attack the seals, and that I should expect it to happen again if I don't flush the coolant every 10,000 miles (yes, ten thousand).
I asked if he meant to say that I should check the 'coolant additive level' every 10k (instead of 15k) and he again stated that a full flush was necessary every 10k miles and that it was a "maintenance intensive engine." This can't be right.
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I have noticed that the tailgate doesn't sit level when opened, the cables are too short for it to horizontal. The rear of the gate is 1-1/2" higher than the front. The cables need to be about a 1/2" longer for it to sit right.
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2012 6.7 .... Noticed my coolant level in the primary tank was low. Thought it was totally empty but it had about a half inch left in it. Topped it off and also needed about a quarter inch in the secondary. I would say about a half gallon between the two. Truck was at about 36k. Has 37.5 on it now and haven't noticed any loss. Never smelled anything, no signs of any leakage. Oil looks fine. Is this 'normal'? Owners manual says to check and add. Never had this with a gasser or any of my tractors over the past 30 years. This is my first light diesel.
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I now have about 39k miles on 2011. Along the way I think I have added six 2.5gal jugs of DEF. About 1k miles ago I got the low DEF notice and added a 2.5gal jug and am already back down to 250 miles of DEF! I don't see any signs of a leak with the engine running or not. Dropped it off at the dealership this eve for an AM service appointment.
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I know checking your oil level is a pretty easy thing but I am having a serious issue right now. I checked my oil and my dipstick has oil on it but it isn't leaving the napkin wet. Like there is oil on the dip stick but it just doesn't seem right. Nothing on the ground were I stopped at before I got home. How long will it run without causing damage?
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OK, I've had this truck one month now, and I like it. I think a full-blown analog DEF gauge (a la Dodge) is silly - it doesn't change that much. But I would like to go into a menu somewhere and simply be able to get a reading (90% remaining, 77% remaining, 15% remaining, etc., etc.) From what I understand the 'system check' function will tell you if the level is below half, or just about empty, and nothing else.
Finally, the DPF. Why can't we see EGT on the "gauge" screen which shows tranny and oil temps? Why can't it tell us what % the DPF is filled? When a passive regen is happening? And at the very least, when an active regen is finished?
As a side question, can the high idle control (SEIC) be actuated in any way other than the upfitter switches, which my truck does not have? I understand RAM trucks can press and hold the cruise control or something to activate it.
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What option level has remote start as standard?
Or is it an add on option?
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I've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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In the last year I've had a NOX sensor fault (dealer repaired) and a DEF heater fault (I replaced). I'm now getting an EGT sensor fail. Every fault is with the same system.
I'm also realizing that while I'm getting the exhaust system cleaning message, my DEF level is not being depleted.
All the dealership wants to do is change out fault codes but I think the true issue is elsewhere.
2011 F250 SD FX4 6.7L (stock)
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Like the title says, I want to raise the front of my 07 F350 about 2.5 inches to get it closer to level with the rear with out throwing the alignment out of wack if that's possible. Maybe some blocks to go on the front coils? or will I need new front coils that are a bit longer?
'm talking about the FRONT of my F350.
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The backlight for my fuel level and oil pressure dash gauges are out. Would that require a simple bulb replacement or if there is something more difficult to replace, i.e. entire panel? The red needles illuminate, it's just the gauges themselves that are dark. The truck is my 05 Super Duty in the siggy.
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I started to feel the brakes get spongy. So I pulled the master cylinder forward and turned the 7mm about a half turn. Also noticed the brake fluid level low. I topped it off. Drove down a steep hill....red dash brake light comes on.....plow truck stopped at the base of hill with on coming car. Used emergency brake.
The down side is that I don't have a dry area to pump and check where the leak is. The up side is I have a 2nd car to drive (yaris).....the truck only has 45k miles on it. Where is that area that is prone to leakage on these trucks....... 2004 heritage 4.2 v6 with stick shift.... only 45k miles ....
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