Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Body Mounts Completely Went Out?
Jan 16, 2016
So since I bought this truck a few weeks back I noticed it rode alittle "rougher" than some of the other trucks I test drove. But for the life of me I could not find anything suspension wise so I crawled under and looked else where to find this......
I'm ordering new mounts from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories I've read good and bad things about using after market poly bushings, and I'm just not wanting to take the risk. I want it to ride like factory. There are a total of 8 mounts, just the rears are going to run $150.
Also on a side note, I'm thinking of swapping out the exhaust. The downpipe is a full 4' and its hitting in alot of places. Do most of you run the 3.5" DP like MBRP makes?
Passenger far rear Top of same one, basically gone Here you can actually see where the shell has been hitting the frame bracket The middle ones look ok but are pretty dry rotted Drivers far rear is completely gone top and bottom The exhaust pipe is whacking the cross member because the hanger isn't even being used
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I cannot locate a picture of where the manual 4wd shifter mounts up to the transmission.
I am finishing up 4wd'ing my F550, but am not exactly sure how the shifter bolts up. Can someone take their boot and bezel off and take a couple photos of how the shifter mounts to the 5R100W by any chanc?
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I need to replace the body mounts in my Ex. How do you do it?
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So my 2013 is making a strange noise that seems to be coming from the front end when turning and going over a bump. While riding with the Service Writer, we also felt that the noise could be coming from the rear of the truck. I think it's two seperate issues, he mentioned something about the rear end noise being "body shift". So two questions:
1. What a "clunking noise" would be coming from around the steering column.
2. What the heck is "body shift"?
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The touchscreen for radio, navigation, etc. stopped working. Completely locked up. My truck is a 14 with less then 3000 miles.
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Was driving the last week and happened to look down and notice the display for my climate controls was completely black. They were still running at whatever I had them last set at but couldn't change anything or turn the system off. Pulled into a parking lot, turned the truck off then started it again and everything was working fine.
Couple days later, was driving down the road again, glanced down and now my climate display, stereo display and odometer display were all black but once again everything was still functioning, just couldn't change anything. Turned my wipers on to check those, heard a little click, and all the displays popped back on like normal???? Wipers worked just fine too.
I'm assuming a short somewhere but wouldn't even know where to start to look or if it's even within my limited skill set to try and track down.
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First time ever. It has 175K on it. Ran fine yesterday. Went out this morning and it almost started, then stopped firing. It was facing down hill, so I thought possibly it wasn't getting the proper volume of oil, so I checked it and had to added 2 quarts to get it up to the proper level. This did not work.
I do have one question: Does the Water in Fuel light stay on until it starts? After turning it over again, it wanted to start at first, then stopped firing completely, but while cranking the WiF light goes off. Does this mean that there is no water in the fuel?
I m keeping it on the charger to make sure the batteries are up to snuff when I try it again. I only crank it for about 15 seconds before I let it rest. I don't have a code reader but I do have a ScanGuage2.
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I have a late model 2004 F-350 6.0 powerstroke. 182K miles. Auto Transmission
What happened. Condensed version
Left house, drove out to highway, got on highway. Everything feels normal.
About 1 mile of going 70mph, I notice I can no longer accelerate. after 1/2 mile, I begin loosing speed, and engine will not rev past 1000 rpm. I eventually pull over (another mile), put in neutral and will not rev past 1000. put in drive and start to idle to highway exit. it gets about another .5 mile and begin going up a hill when it completely dies. Will not restart.
No prior issues with the truck. Full tank of fuel.
What I have tested so far. Ficm 48.5 volts cranking. Icp .225V KOEO, .875V Cranking. LPOP is registering pressure on the dash. No Fault codes.
I have gotten it to start twice now, one time it allowed me to rev to 750 rpm, where i used 4 low to make it onto a trailer. second time would not rev at all. idling at 250-300 rpm.
That same night as it died, I drained the transmission pan/ TP filter and filled with 8.5 Quarts of Mercon LV. This is the first time I have done this since purchasing @ 161K miles. Everything seemed normal, no leaks present.
Also my buddy showed me how to enter the dash test mode and we cycled through these. Not sure if this is relevant.
So, What do I test next? I don't think its HPOP issue since the ICP is reading .875 volts at crank. I did unplug the ICP and it still would not start. I don't think its the injector side of the ficm because they buzz as normal with koeo, but this is a possibility as I don't have equipment to test. Egr valve is clean for age of truck.
Would it be possible that the Mercon LV knocked crud loose in the transmission causing it to fail/seize? would siezed tranny cause the engine to behave in this manner?
Fuel bowl on top of the engine was full of fuel. I have not pressure tested it yet as I can hear the pump running during key on.
could i have a bad crank or cam sensor?
Multi-injector failure?
Bad Icp with HPO failure?
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Iv heard a few things about changing the valve body. I tow a trailer so was wondering on pros and cons of changing this. And also what brands are recommended.
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Just tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
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Keywords: Diesel fuel, tank capacity, 26 gallons, fuel tank, capacity, false advertisement.
On my 2012 F250 with 19k miles I have NEVER been able to fill tank with more than 22.4 gallons of diesel fuel. That was the day I ran out of diesel going to fill up thinking I had 26 gallons. Once the light comes on I'm filling up, I have every tank fill DOCUMENTED with (date/cost/gals/trip/$per gal).
Talked to local dealer Raleigh, NC , their explanation was fuel pickup was raised to prevent contaminates from getting into injectors. They advertise 26 gallons, should be able to access 26 gallons.
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I've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
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Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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My truck threw a CEL after the first start today. The CTS reports it twice. I noticed it about two minutes after start.
P02E1 - Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Performance
The air box gauge is green and it doesn't reset when I push it so that appears to be fine.
The one thing I can easily notice is the sound of the turbo. Typically when I stop and park, the turbo spools up, then down, then spools again and gives a sigh of relief and it's then silent. It's not doing that currently.
Now, I can hear it constantly when parked and it spools down after I turn off the engine, even two minutes later. That is not normal for my truck when I wait for the above to finish its routine. When I start the truck, the turbo immediately spools to where I can hear it which is also not normal, as if it's building 0.5 psi. I realize that's funny to say on a turbo diesel but I know the sounds of my truck. The EGT's are fine, EOT, ECT, TFT are fine and I can build boost when driving without issue. I took the drive to work easy this morning so the highest I noticed was 10 psi.
I restarted the truck after a 20 minute drive to the office and it didn't clear the CEL. The CTS squawked four times when it woke up the second time but it didn't show me which PID it was upset about.
I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the CAI and this is something downstream of there. EGR related? I haven't opened the air box yet, at work and in dress clothes so that'll need to wait. My past four or five regenerations all started between 1.94 and 1.97 soot gpl. That is also not normal and is something I have been keeping my eyes on. Currently the DPF is at 2.10 so it has made it further. Normal behavior (post emissions flash) is above 2.54 soot gpl for an AR.
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2007 6.0 6 speed, 187,000 miles. The other day started truck, had been running about 20 minutes before. Started fine, go to drive, chugging white smoke, smelled like unburnt diesel, baby truck home, seemed to run ok at low rpm, truck warmed up and ran fine. But I also noticed turbo boost was acting funny. Truck ran fine next few days. Then this morning, started cold fine, started to drive it and same chugging white smoke, it quit by the time j got to the end of my driveway, but drove to work, it quit smoking, ran pretty smooth, but will not build any boost. Truck is bone stock except for exhaust, it's straight piped. Ok. So this eve I borrowed my dads edge cts, here's all the engine codes:
P0069
P0269
P0299
P2262
P2269
The last one is water in fuel, since it started this crap I did notice it was right after it came on in the dash. I'm trying to figure out where to start....
On another note. VGT duty shows 85% at idle ?
Ficm voltage is constant 48 volts
Newer batteries
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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