Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Blows Smoke / Stinks And Smells Like Something Is Burning For About 15 Minutes
Apr 7, 2016
So I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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2005 F250, 6.0, 60K miles, recently (within last 1K miles) had ARP studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler installed. Shortly after (5-6 weeks later) I noticed blue smoke under any load (taking off from red light, backing up) but not at idle or startup. Was using the "Performance" SCT canned tune after the stud install, but had the "65HP Tow" canned tune installed when I first noticed the smoke and now back to stock after noticed the smoke as a precaution. Everything else original except FICM, filters and batteries and use 5w40 Mobil 1 since new.
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Last week I noticed I was having to refill coolant in my excursion more than I should. I hae a mechanic friend now trying to diagnose the problem. he said he doesnt think its the water pump and there's no white smoke. Are there common leaking places for the coolant on 6.0s he should be looking for?
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I have a 2006 f350 with 75k on it, has a mild sct towing tune, and 4' turbo abck dual exhaust. It recently started blowing whiteish smoke, so i did an EGR cooler and valve delete kit, and it stoppe dsmoking for a while.. coinsidence?
It has recently started again, at idle there is no smoke, and taking off slow from a stop, it doesnt ALWAYS smoke. but leaving a dead stop, if i get right into it, it billows whiteish smoke, and if im cruising, romp on it, let off it, then get on it again it will smoke.
Ive been told fuel pressure, injectors, turbo seal etc. when i had the down pipe off, no sticky black residue was present, so im counting out turbo seal (for now). I purchased the blue spring upgrade for fuel pressure, because i was told its not getting the right amount of fuel, once i get that ill throw it in and see if it fixes it.
whats yall's opinion? is it worth have it checked for a failed injector? as i said, no EGR in the truck, no loss of coolant either, oil is clean. It does seem a little sluggish at times off the line now as well.
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I have looked through every post and idea possible with no remedy for my no start condition. I have tried everything that I am capable of doing without diagnostic computers and other specialized tools. A little history of what happened. While idling in the parking lot for a few minutes, truck all of the sudden start running rough, and acts like it is going to quit. Hurried out of the parking lot to make sure that I made it home, but the the truck would only get up to about 25 MPH, but I finally made it home(about 3-4 miles).
NOW, the truck won't start at all, but just cranks. Some more detail about how it cranks. It cranks fast, I separated the batteries by disconnecting the grounds on each, and made sure both are charged. Batteries are only 3 months old from Ford Dealership. As the engine cranks, oil pressure registers after a little while, (longer the first time for some reason), and as soon as oil pressure shows up on the dash indicator, black smoke starts coming out of the exhaust. The engine is trying to start a little bit, but it mostly just cranks.
Things that I've done: Changed fuel filters, Motorcraft (new orings). At first the pump was pumping large bubbles through the line up into the upper fuel filter, but after sitting it appears that it is not pumping bubbles anymore, and I cycled the Key more than 10 times. Did the bubble test while upper filter was removed. Unplugged ICP sensor. Pulled EGR, installed new one. Pulled oil filter and made sure that oil is pumping.
Checked FICM voltage, with key on Injectors buzzing, also engine cranking for quite a while. Never dropped below 48.5 V. Pulled FICM just incase and performed repair procedure, still same volts and no start. Coolant level is good. Checked oil level. unplugged EGR. Checked filter Minder. checked for chafing on FICM harness. Unplugged MAF. Checked FICM relay operation, Fuses all around. I need this truck to run.
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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I've had my 2001 Ford Ranger for almost a year now 240,000 miles, almost no problems until now. It doesn't overheat, but smoke is coming from the hood and smells like burning oil EVERYTIME I start it up & drive it. I don't think its a head gasket problem, but I could be wrong.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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Only had happened a few times in the last month. I start the car and it idles okay. drive down the road and then come to s stop and there's some blue smoke. It smells like burning oil. it only has happens 2 times in the last 2 months. only when its really cold it has happend. If I rev it when its happening I can see a big plume of bluish smoke and it smells like burning oil. after i drive after that no more smoke.
car has 95k on it
never been chipped
car has full turbo back and intake
car does not burn any oil between oil changes. oil stays at the same level.
did break an oil pan about 4 months ago. when I replaced it no signs on sludge.
turbo boosts fine
Car has had a rough idle for a long time. only when its a cold start and only last about 20 seconds. When I boost it or redline the car which is very rare no smoke at all. I have always kept the oil more on the high side of full. I usually fill it right to the high mark on the dip stick.
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I have a 2006 SAAB 9-2X, that I just bough used with 116k. The car rides great and I am really enjoying it. The one problem is that there is an intermittent smell of burning. Some days its strong, some days there is no smell at all. It is really weird. I took it to my mechanic for its inspection and he passed it and said that the care looked great. I havent seen a leak, the check engine light is not on and there is no smoke.
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I am not sure what is going on with my car. I have a 1998 saturn sc2 and this morning it started smoking from the tailpipe. The oil is black but the smoke smells like something is burning......
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Drove 40 miles took half hour then back in the truck and drove to lunch. When I got out of the truck you could smell burning. Opened the hood but there was nothing to see. Coolant level in the plastic hold tank good checked oil level, okay. No sign of smoke but the smell was real. Went in had lunch and came out and nothing. no smell nothing. Drove fifty miles home and nothing every thing working perfect and no smell. Oil temp. 197 to 203 all the way home.
Only thing that was done on truck was last Tuesday Ford did oil change.
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My A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
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For the past several months I have been noticing a mildew smell in my truck. Today it seems much more noticeable than ever. I have no leaks that I know of. Back in the first part of the summer we had very heavy rains and flooding here and I was in the middle of it, stuck in my truck overnight due to flooding. During that time I never noticed any leaks.
A couple of months ago I saw that there was about a half inch of water in the bottom of my glove compartment. (It's dry today.) I didn't find any wet spots in the carpet underneath. I thought maybe that some AC condensation had gotten in there somehow.
This morning as I was leaving for work, the smell was very noticeable and when I turned on the defroster I could definitely smell it coming out of the vents. What could be the cause?
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I just recently purchased my 06 Ford F-250 it's got the 6.0 in it once I made a 6hr trip I've noticed once you warm it up and ride a little bit kill it let set for 30min or better and crank it up it blows white smoke for a min or two than on the way to work this morning my heater.
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My 2006, King Ranch, 4x4, 6.0's air conditioner only blows from the defrost vent. I have done some research on here, but haven't seen anything that identifies as a common problem. I did however, notice that this problem is stemming from a vacuum issue.
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So, I pretty unimpressed with the air in my 2011 SC 250. I keep the climate at about 69, and seems like is work about half as good as my 2010 F150 with climate did. When idling it blows almost warm, only cools when the RPMs are up there. My F150 seemed to be the same no matter what.
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On Friday my turn shaft broke, 70 mph on the highway. As soon as it broke burned oil like a freight train, I know seal in the turbo. Bought brand new Garrett turbo installed last night. Let idle for 5 minuets and went and drove it and it burns oil once I get on it. Drove it for about 3 miles comes and goes? I did break a piece of the turbo vane off 1/4 inch by 1/4. The truck runs fine no knocks or misses. Could this just be oil left over or is there something else I should be looking for?
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