Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Blown Upper Radiator Hose And EOT Temps
Oct 3, 2016
This weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
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After chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
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Noticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
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I have an 03 super duty with the 6.0, came back from vacation with my 5th wheel in tow. Lost the upper turbo hose twice on way home. Managed to get it rigged and made it home and parked it. a week later went to uncouple and move the truck and had some very strange issues. Started fine but could barely make it up driveway (no trailer at this point). No power, felt like when turbo hose came off. Got it moved and checked turbo hose and all was good?? Went out a couple days later and no start.
Checked all relative fuses and relays and all checked good. Jumped starter solenoid and starter worked fine. turned key on and jumped quick connect on right side of engine compartment to battery and it fired right up and ran. Jiggled shifter around in park and neutral and nothing. BTW I always here the relay clicking and swapped with one of the others just to be sure, same thing. After looking on the internet for a day and a half thought maybe a NSS in the tranny but I think I have the 5R110 that does not apply??
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Just had to replace radiator at 38k on my 2012 SD. Now I have another leak at 41k. Looks like it's wherever the lower radiator hose leads. Kind of a weird junction. I don't think it's coming from above there, but not sure. It's the primary dgas bottle that was low. The radiator was covered under my ESP. We'll have to see what's up with this one. Been eying a denim blue SD at dealer, thinking this is going to talk me out of it though. Not especially happy right now.
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Recently I had a radiator hose split while traveling. The EOT got up to 250 degrees before I could pull over and stop the truck. I flushed the cooling system with water, replaced the thermostat, and added Ford Gold coolant as per the recommendations in the Tech folder. My oil temps are higher now than prior to this incident. Unloaded on a flat road my deltas are about 10 to 12 degrees @ 60 mph.
My water temp will stay around 190 to 195 degrees while my EOT have reached 212-215. I pulled a small utility trailer and saw a delta of 17 degrees this was at about 75 mph. Typically unloaded I would only see a delta of about 8 degrees and this was at 80mph. My question is do you think a EOT of 250 would burn the oil, I had Shell Rotella T5 5W40 in the engine. Would it be possible that the oil cooler is partially plugged from this temp?
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So i cant figure out how to remove the radiator side of the upper radiator hose. I pulled out the pin but i cant remove the hose.
Do I just pull it straight out? Or do I twist and pull? I dont want to break the connection.
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1992 3.0L V-6 RANGER
New thermostat
New Water Pump
I noticed the other day that the Upper radiator hose gets Sucked Flat when RPM is higher than Idle BAD it completely collapses IDK how it can circulate the coolant very well in this Condition. If the hoses have ever been changed But the Upper hose Really gets sucked flat. I've seen this a few times on vehicles that have been shutdown But they have always expanded upon startup and are fine....
The Lower Looks Fairly Old and only partly collapses under higher RPM.... I am going to change the Upper hose at a Minimum as its really Bad and probably a lot older than I am thinking and really Soft. I am just wondering if the radiator could be plugged up causing some of this.. Or anything else I should check into????
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
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I blew some hose in my engine and radiator fluid was spraying out of it like crazy. It's on a 1999 f150 4.6 on the passenger side near the rear of the engine but about even with the top of the engine...
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Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
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I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
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I have a new(and flushed) oil cooler and new thermostat and my coolant and oil temps never go above 190. They are always within 3 degrees at most but is this actually losing fuel mileage? I thought these were good numbers, could be wrong though.
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Last year while towing my fifth wheel to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon my oil temp went to 260 degrees several times. The outside temps were 95 degrees at the start and it is a long steep climb with a heavy load. Each time I pulled over for a bit, as I couldn't remember at what temp that plastic thing inside the oil filter melted. Each time it cooled off fairly quickly but it really stressed me out. So how hot can the oil get. I am using Rotella T-6 and my temp different is only 12-15 unloaded. Could I allow 280 for 15 minutes or so?
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I am looking for some insight on an issue before I lose sleep over head gaskets. Headed out today in the truck, and no heat whatsoever. Im thinking maybe a vacuum issue, but 4wd (esof) and all vents move just fine. About 10 miles in I over heated at 236 ect. After cracking the coolant cap there was no coolant. I havent actively monitored it but last i checked was fine.
The exhaust does not smell sweet and I see no puddles or any evidence of coolant splatter before today when i refilled it today. There was some tonight but im thinking that's from me spilling some today. Egr is also blocked off. I need the truck soon for plowing so need this resolved asap.
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New 6.0 owner having some issues. I have read just about everything I can find on the ECT/EOT problem.
208K on it, its been studded, running a full banks system. Factory size tires. Since buying it I have drained and flushed with distilled 4 times before new ELC coolant (system looks very clean, no debris found at all), T6 oil change and cleaned the air filter.
I am having a large delta on ECT and EOT. Here's some data from today's run. There is a lot of it. Readings from every minute.
Ambient Temp 118 today, took it for a run up the highway cruised north at 65 mph and back south at 75mph. I was driving on Saturday at 75mph and got the wrench light for excessive delta with 232 degree EOT.
45mph on the way to the Freeway- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
65mph after accelerating lightly- ECT 197.6, EOT 216.4
10 miles later, flat 65mph cruise set, it maintained a reasonable temp hold and reached max of ECT 199.4, EOT 218.7
After 2 minutes of coasting down off-ramp and sitting at a light- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
after reaching 75MPH moderately- ECT 201.2, EOT 216.5
1 mile later, holding 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 220.2
2 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 224.6
3 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 225.2
4 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 226.4
5 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 227.3
6 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 228.2
7 miles at 75mph- ECT 206.6, EOT 228.5
8 miles at 75mph - ECT 208.4, EOT 231.0
At this point I dropped cruised and coasted to the next exit, a mile down.
After coasting to exit and sitting for a minute- ECT 201.2, EOT 221.0
After a mile at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 221.6
2 miles at 45mph, lightly on throttle- ECT 204.8, EOT 221.0
After idling stopped for a few minutes- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.8
Driving again lightly at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 211.5
Am I just ignoring the obvious oil cooler issue or is this a water pump, etc? I changed out the thermostat again for another motorcraft unit after Saturdays hot run. I swear it did not run this hot when I got it... but I question if they were running nearly 100% water in the system. What EGR cooler there is, if there is a way to tell without disassembly?
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It's been pretty smooth sailing since I installed my BPD oil cooler a couple months ago, oil temps are great now. However, in the last month or so, since the outside temps have gotten hot, I'm noticing that my coolant temps seem to be a little higher than they should. I put a new Ford thermostat in it back in the fall when I flushed the coolant system and refilled with EC1 coolant. The temps I'm seeing range from 206 up to 222 and I have seen as high as 230 when I was going up a long grade on a hot day. This is not towing.
The fan does kick on like it should, or at least I think its working properly. When the temp gets to 210-212 I can hear the fan a little, when the temp gets to 219 I can really hear the fan. It usually cools it back down pretty quick unless I'm headed up a long grade. Am I wrong in thinking these temps are too high for a 192 degree stat? My worst fear of course is head gaskets even though I don't have any other HG symptoms. No coolant loss, no puking. What other things should I check first? A new thermostat would be easy enough but I don't know if that would be the issue or not.
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I have a 2007 F250 with the 6.0. Towing up a long hill my truck went into limp mode. I didn't have gauges at the time so I didn't know what my temps were. I now have gauges. I know that the coolant and Oil temps should not be more than 10-15* apart, but what is the max temp that oil should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill? Also, what is the max temp that coolant should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill?
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I was towing the 5er (about 15000#), across Southern Mn and SD today going right into a 20-25 mph wind in upper 90 temps, saw 228 on the oil temp and 199 on the tranny temp. When tow need to see for warmest temps and at what point you start to get concerned...
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Took a trip today that was 3 hours there and 3 hours back. Truck ran normal on the way there (eot about 202 and ect about 196-198), but on the way back truck ran a little hotter than normal (ect as high as 214 eot stayed within 2-3* plus or minus ect). Fan did kick on every time I hit ect of 212 and would drop it down to 196-198 and oil temp would drop at the same rate.
Truck is stock 190k miles with a bulletproof egr cooler and coolant filter. Oil cooler probably has about 20k on it. (4th one on this truck- since I like changing them out as much as the rest of us). I checked coolant level when I got home and I might've added a pint to get to bottom of sticker. I'm not sure it wasn't a pint low when I did last flush and cooler replacement.
No puking and I can't find any leaks. I pulled egr valve and no moisture in manifold just a worm out o ring that'll I'll replace. I can't find any leaks. Where to check that I haven't? I don't feel like I'm losing coolant because I wasn't really low. My fan never failed to kick on when I hit 212 or stopped at a red light. No moisture in manifold so I'm not thinking losing coolant due to head gasket. Maybe radiator looks ok but tomorrow I will blow out any bugs to make sure.
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