Thought for sure that would fix my fan speed, but nope. Replaced blower control module, Still only blows on the highest setting. Didn't try running it on auto, but that's what it did on manually turning the speed up. What else could it be?
View 9 RepliesMy 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
View 1 RepliesMy A/C has been making a loud noise for a couple months now ,only when I put the A/C on the highest setting. I was LONG overdue for a cabin air filter change so I bought a new one and while I was down there I looked inside the blower motor and here's what I saw... It is now blowing fine and not making a noise . Sprayed some Ozium New Car spray on the new cabin air filter and my car is smelling great now !
View 4 RepliesI'm just curries as to the highest millage on a 6.7. I have a 2011 and only 36,000. My 7.3 had near 300,000 when I sold her and the engine was still running strong. Wondering if the 6.7 has that same longevity.
View 14 RepliesWell my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
View 9 RepliesI don't know if its a coincidence but it rained hard all weekend and went to work this morning to find out the blower motor only on 4(high). I checked the plug going into blower motor and it looks dry and clean. is there a common occurrence with this? What to look for?
View 14 RepliesMy 2006, King Ranch, 4x4, 6.0's air conditioner only blows from the defrost vent. I have done some research on here, but haven't seen anything that identifies as a common problem. I did however, notice that this problem is stemming from a vacuum issue.
View 10 RepliesSo, I pretty unimpressed with the air in my 2011 SC 250. I keep the climate at about 69, and seems like is work about half as good as my 2010 F150 with climate did. When idling it blows almost warm, only cools when the RPMs are up there. My F150 seemed to be the same no matter what.
View 14 RepliesInstalling STs on my mk6 tomorrow. Doing it in a steep driveway. want to be on the highest setting when I leave. regular v1 st coil over.
View 1 RepliesTraveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
The fan in my 2011 Matrix is only blowing on the highest setting (4), heat and air is ok. Is this a fuse issue?
View 6 RepliesI'm having an issue with my heater/fan. When I started her up this morning, I noticed my heater (and fan for that matter) only work on the highest setting (4). It still blows hot, and runs at normal temp, but none of the vents are functional unless its blasting!
View 13 RepliesI have a lariat (auto climate control) and I just finished reassembling the engine and I noticed that the AC blower goes on full whenever you turn the key on.
According to the AC panel it seems to be off. Where should I start looking? AC is very important here... its already regularly over 100 degrees here.
Had just got done filling up with diesel, drove 1/4 mile and truck just died. Tried to start it and nothing. No power to edge tuner either. Fuse #22 20a under steering column blown (engine control). Replaced and keeps blowing. not sure what is causing it. Just another wrench to throw in my wedding week!
View 13 RepliesSo I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
I got a new 2011 Subaru Legacy a few months ago and now that the weather is starting to get warm again I am finding that the AC really sucks!! Even on the highest settings it doesn't get above a cool breeze in the car. I grew up with an older legacy and the AC was awesome so is this just with the new Subarus or have I gotten another lemon?
View 5 RepliesJust got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
I have a 2006 f350 with 75k on it, has a mild sct towing tune, and 4' turbo abck dual exhaust. It recently started blowing whiteish smoke, so i did an EGR cooler and valve delete kit, and it stoppe dsmoking for a while.. coinsidence?
It has recently started again, at idle there is no smoke, and taking off slow from a stop, it doesnt ALWAYS smoke. but leaving a dead stop, if i get right into it, it billows whiteish smoke, and if im cruising, romp on it, let off it, then get on it again it will smoke.
Ive been told fuel pressure, injectors, turbo seal etc. when i had the down pipe off, no sticky black residue was present, so im counting out turbo seal (for now). I purchased the blue spring upgrade for fuel pressure, because i was told its not getting the right amount of fuel, once i get that ill throw it in and see if it fixes it.
whats yall's opinion? is it worth have it checked for a failed injector? as i said, no EGR in the truck, no loss of coolant either, oil is clean. It does seem a little sluggish at times off the line now as well.
I have looked through every post and idea possible with no remedy for my no start condition. I have tried everything that I am capable of doing without diagnostic computers and other specialized tools. A little history of what happened. While idling in the parking lot for a few minutes, truck all of the sudden start running rough, and acts like it is going to quit. Hurried out of the parking lot to make sure that I made it home, but the the truck would only get up to about 25 MPH, but I finally made it home(about 3-4 miles).
NOW, the truck won't start at all, but just cranks. Some more detail about how it cranks. It cranks fast, I separated the batteries by disconnecting the grounds on each, and made sure both are charged. Batteries are only 3 months old from Ford Dealership. As the engine cranks, oil pressure registers after a little while, (longer the first time for some reason), and as soon as oil pressure shows up on the dash indicator, black smoke starts coming out of the exhaust. The engine is trying to start a little bit, but it mostly just cranks.
Things that I've done: Changed fuel filters, Motorcraft (new orings). At first the pump was pumping large bubbles through the line up into the upper fuel filter, but after sitting it appears that it is not pumping bubbles anymore, and I cycled the Key more than 10 times. Did the bubble test while upper filter was removed. Unplugged ICP sensor. Pulled EGR, installed new one. Pulled oil filter and made sure that oil is pumping.
Checked FICM voltage, with key on Injectors buzzing, also engine cranking for quite a while. Never dropped below 48.5 V. Pulled FICM just incase and performed repair procedure, still same volts and no start. Coolant level is good. Checked oil level. unplugged EGR. Checked filter Minder. checked for chafing on FICM harness. Unplugged MAF. Checked FICM relay operation, Fuses all around. I need this truck to run.
I own a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Just recently while I was driving (in 15 degree icy conditions!) my heater, which was blowing on setting 2, stopping blowing air. I tried messing around with it, and found out that it won't blow any air on settings 1,2,or 3. It does, however, blow air on setting 4, but that is accompanied by a slight strange noise/vibrating of the dash. The coolant level looks fine and I haven't spotted any leaks anywhere that might indicate that it's the heating core. I thought it might be the resistor.
View 4 RepliesI have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
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