my egr delete j pipe orings give me trouble and i replaced but broke a bolt, now i think that big donut oring is leaking, i was reading you can put a 3/4 freeze plug in to eliminate any coolant into the intake, where does the freeze plug go,front cover or intake and does coolant still pass thru the j pipe?
View 7 RepliesSeen a coolant leak near the back of the block? I did an oil change and noticed coolant on the bell housing.
View 7 RepliesWhat the coolant temp should be around after plugging in the block heater overnight? Not looking for an exact measurement since this can be affected by OAT and the length of time it has been plugged in. But when it's -15 to -20F this weekend I was wondering what to expect.
View 13 RepliesI just replaced the oil/egr cooler, stand pipes and dummy plugs along with all suggested upgrades, just filled with oil hooked up batteries and while filing with coolant it started gushing out from under the intake in front. I think I see an o-ring pushed out.. I hope I can lift the intake without removing the turbo!!!
View 1 RepliesIs this common? No coolant in the oil-YET........
Any way to fix it without pulling the cover?
I didn't have time to trouble shoot but heres my problem. I plugged my 2016 6.7L in last night and when I checked it this morning the block was still ice cold. I didn't have time to investigate but i did make sure i had power up to the truck. And i noticed there's a connector just after the truck plug as well.
View 14 RepliesDoes the block heater come with some kind of a cord? I found the Box Link stuff under the back seat finally, the dealer said the block heater should be under there too? But it aint there?
View 6 RepliesHas actually removed the block plug (from where ever it is) and installed a heating rod...I'm fairly mechanical, just not sure of the steps or tools needed.
View 14 RepliesDon't drive the truck but once a week but since its gotten colder here than usual is been harder to start when cold. Of-course I go thru the glow plug wait and then it kinda stumbles when its about to start. I do it again and most of the time is starts but seems rough for a few seconds. Once the truck is warm, no more problems starting.
I'm wondering if I have a glow plug gone bad and that cylinder is not warming up for me. Today I plugged in the block heater for maybe 2 hours and it started first time. Also, if just leave the block heater plugged in for long periods of time.. would it get to hot?? and wonder how expensive that is, most heater are costly to run. I have a timer but just wondering.
My truck threw a CEL after the first start today. The CTS reports it twice. I noticed it about two minutes after start.
P02E1 - Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Performance
The air box gauge is green and it doesn't reset when I push it so that appears to be fine.
The one thing I can easily notice is the sound of the turbo. Typically when I stop and park, the turbo spools up, then down, then spools again and gives a sigh of relief and it's then silent. It's not doing that currently.
Now, I can hear it constantly when parked and it spools down after I turn off the engine, even two minutes later. That is not normal for my truck when I wait for the above to finish its routine. When I start the truck, the turbo immediately spools to where I can hear it which is also not normal, as if it's building 0.5 psi. I realize that's funny to say on a turbo diesel but I know the sounds of my truck. The EGT's are fine, EOT, ECT, TFT are fine and I can build boost when driving without issue. I took the drive to work easy this morning so the highest I noticed was 10 psi.
I restarted the truck after a 20 minute drive to the office and it didn't clear the CEL. The CTS squawked four times when it woke up the second time but it didn't show me which PID it was upset about.
I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the CAI and this is something downstream of there. EGR related? I haven't opened the air box yet, at work and in dress clothes so that'll need to wait. My past four or five regenerations all started between 1.94 and 1.97 soot gpl. That is also not normal and is something I have been keeping my eyes on. Currently the DPF is at 2.10 so it has made it further. Normal behavior (post emissions flash) is above 2.54 soot gpl for an AR.
Well, I swapped a 2011 F250 SC for an F350 CC and I really enjoy driving it. 300 miles on the clock. My old 250 had the block heater and the pigtail to plug it in was low in front of the radiator. This truck also has the block heater, but I cannot find the pigtail to plug it in. In 2016 where Ford hid it at?
View 14 RepliesOk, is it possible to blow a fuze if the block heater is still plugged in when starting? Almost did this the other day and wondered if its possible to cause a short or something.
View 6 RepliesI am doing heads studs and gaskets on the truck. I forgot to remove the stand pipe and started to lift the head off the truck with the engine jack. Well i bent the stand pipe and the port to the bock was a little loose. Tightened it back down and it seems ok. Could I have damaged anything by doing that? how is that all connected to the high pressure oil pump? I just want to make sure i didnt damage anything by doing that and since im already here I would rather make a fix instead of needed to tear down again.
View 5 RepliesI have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
View 14 RepliesWhere the air intake for the cabin air conditioning system is? The past several trucks I've owned had a cabin air filter which I replaced annually. They get filthy and I can see why this dirt should not get into the evaporator coil. It will reduce air flow and here in Texas we need all the air flow we can get (106 today). It shouldn't be too hard to improvise a filter to wrap over the intake (for a cheap fix).
View 3 RepliesWell got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
I was chasing down a P2074 CEL and thought it was a stressed wiring harness connection on the MAF.
Took it to the Ford house and they chased it for 2 days, believing it was the MAF and air filter. They told me that air filter was allowing to much air in. My thoughts was, that is was what MAF is for, to regulate the fuel based on how much air was going in.
I just found out that they are stating that an AFE dry air filter contributed to a cracked intake manifold because the aftermarket air filter made the intake get too hot.
Anyways, I've been doing a lot of work on my 6.0 2004 Ford Excursion lately, and recently installed my Sinister Diesel intercooler pipes and intake elbow, and had to remove my throttle body completely to do so. I know that the 2004 models throw codes when removed, and that's what I'm here for. Mine isn't dogged down and actually runs even smoother with my new piping and intake, but I want to get rid of this code.
Is there any tune out there that can erase it? For some reason my Edge Insight CTS2 sees the code, but my SCT X4 flash tuner doesn't see the P0488 code. I know people have discussed this topic several times, but after hours of reading through posts I never found any solution to this. All I need is a way to delete the code because I don't like having my CTS2 with a trouble code for something I did on purpose!
I understand that exhaust runs through the EGR. what I don't know is:
Does the EGR valve control the amount of exhaust into the air intake?
If so, does only the amount of exhaust let through the valve go through the EGR?
if so, if the EGR valve is closed then no exhaust will go through the EGR?
I I have a pretty good o ring leak where the egr cooler meets with the intake. My question is can i replace the o ring without removing​ the intake. If so what is the process.
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