getting ready to do a cooling system flush per the instructions Cheezit posted a while back, which say "refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section." I think I can figure out the drain and fill but how do you bleed the system?
View 14 RepliesI heard that you could place a flat screwdriver between the upper radiator hose and the end of radiator. Is this procedure really work?
View 10 RepliesAlrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
Turns out I've lost nearly all of the coolant from my secondary cooling system and am trying to diagnose the problem.
Things I noticed:
-All of the hoses appear to be in good condition.
-Coolant is dripping from the center of the engine bay.
-After inspecting the turbo area, it appears the valley below the turbo is wet.
The intake manifold is still on the truck, so I haven't been able to get a better look. Is there anything else near the area I am describing that has coolant? My guess is the turbo water inlet?
Perhaps this : Coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel - YouTube...
I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
View 5 RepliesI just installed a new water pump and thermostat on my truck, and now hardly any heat? I let the truck run for almost an hour without the radiator cap on. And I added coolant back up to the full level. I took it for an almost 100 mile ride and the temp level hardly even moved off of cold? And it is hardley even blowing warm air with the heater on hi.
View 8 RepliesUnder normal driving, my cooling fan rarely comes on. The truck runs ECT 194 to 200 and EOT about 7-8 degrees warmer. On grades in the mountains, not towing, it will cycle on if the ECT gets to 210, cools it down and cycles again if needed. My question is, under similar conditions, what does your truck do? When towing my 5th wheel, about 13k, when its 90 degrees plus, at between 60 and 65mph on level ground, my ECT runs 210 and the fan comes on to around 1400rpm and cools it back down to about 204.
When the ECT gets back to 210, the fan does the same. On uphill grades, I see as much as 220 ECT. When this happens the fan comes on at around 2500rpm and cools it down to about 199 pretty quickly. I have a new oil cooler so my oil always follows and on my last trip I never saw more than EOT of 225 on the longest, steepest grade. The reason I ask is to see if this seems normal. My mech keeps mentioning that if my fan is cycling it may be head gaskets. But, I don't have any other head gasket symptoms. I think it seems pretty normal. If the fan doesn't come on and cool the engine when its working this hard, then what is it for? What does your truck do under similar conditions?
The 2011 Platinum's "black" interior is really chocolate in color. This just killed a potential sale today. But I did drive it and it didn't dissapoint. Probably out of my price range,but if money wasn't and object, probably would go for the loaded blk. 4x4 Platinum.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 6.0 Exc. I have installed an external "Bullet Proof" oil cooler, and essentially all of the "bullet proofing" accessories with the exception of head studs. I also have installed a Mishimoto oil cooler, as the OEM cooler had a crack in the upper tank, My particular problem is that the cooling fan does not kick on (audibly) until about 230 deg or so. It quickly cools to about 215, and the fan kicks off (audibly). On the long uphills here in AZ, it will repeat this process, sometimes getting as high as 240deg.
(As monitored by my EDGE tuner) I have utilized the blue-wire-to-ground trick noted elsewhere, manually turning the fan on myself, and that works great. What I'm asking, is what sensor sends coolant temp to the ECU, ( and where is it located in the cooling system) which in turn determines how much to turn the cooling fan on? What typical level the sensor sends to the ECU to control the fan? I would like to put together a circuit that "fools" the ECU into turning the fan full "on" at about 210 deg, and stays on until the coolant temp reaches 195 or so. I would like to check that sensor first, and make sure it is working correctly before I try to band aid a fix.
My truck was parked at home and hadn't been started for 10 days. When I did start it for the first time, I heard the cooling fan spooling up or down, consistent with the engine rpm. After pulling away from my home I saw the fan speed spool up to near 2,800 rpm during the short period it was locked-in with the engine speed.
While driving out of my neighborhood, and about 1/3 of a mile from my house, the fan returned to normal speed of about 480 rpm. I have the FSS pid displayed on my Scangauge and was able to see the fan speed while hearing it. Now I know what the fan sounds like at a high rpm. It makes quite a roar.
This has never happened before. I've driven the truck a few times since then and it hasn't occurred again. What may have caused this?
Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
2006 F350 6.0 throwing code P0480 and I'm having a hard time figuring anything out pertaining to my truck. Trying to figure out what exactly it is and how to fix it myself.
View 3 RepliesI currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
My engine cooling fan came on when I first started the truck, was reading of 2k on torque app, ECT was appx 100* with the EOT a little cooler after about 5-10 minutes things went to normal around 600 rpm. It did not happen anymore during the drive, I was seeing about 192* ECT and 198-200 EOT. I let her set for 2 days and took her to town and the fan was at normal RPM's, Is there any problems or is that normal?
View 9 RepliesI noticed my A/C hasn't been up to par. It's not bad when driving but just ok when idling. So today I changed the orfice tube and the accumulator. Vacuumed the sys. down and charged it up, 2 lbs 10 oz. It is worse! the compressor kicks on and off constantly only cooling to 80 degrees.
I noticed the high goes right up to 350 then the compressor shuts off .... 7 seconds later, back on and up to 350lbs and off again. I think the high-pressure switch is shutting the compressor off before anything goes kaboom but why isn't my fan cooling the condenser down? my FSS shows no increase in fan speed. Sitting at 450.
I think I'm going to cool the condenser down with a hose now to see if that works. If so, That would be telling me the fan isn't doing it's job correct?
I'm sure there is something on this somewhere but can't seem to find. Getting ready to change injector o rings and see where people say to drive it 200 miles to get it running right again. Well, I am in the process of a conversion and have no tags or insurance on the truck. Trying to fix issues before I spend that money on it because don't know how much I am going to have to put in it to fix the issue's.
Is there a way to bleed out the air so I don't have to drive it 200 miles? Also, how long will it smoke after the injector change to see if it is actually fixed? I know I should probably see a big difference is ICP,IPR and such. Already know it has leaks in the turbo up pipes which will have to be dealt with too.
Sunday I received the dreaded DEF system fault message on my 2012 CC SRW SB FX4 with 7800 miles on it. Warned me that speed will be reduced to 50 MPH in 50 miles. I have a CTS Insight, so I checked for DTC's. First one was P2200 - NOx sensor circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), the second one was P204F - Reductant system performance (Bank 1).
After 50 miles it warned me that speed would be reduced to 50 MPH on next restart. Sure enough, Monday morning speed was limited to 50. I took it to the dealer, but I should have left it running. When the service guy started it, the fault had cleared and it no longer showed the P2200 NOx sensor code, although the P204f code was still there.
My question is, why in the world would Ford make it so that the code is cleared if the fault goes away, especially after putting you through the 50 MPH limit scenario?
Dealer did a reflash and said its OK now, but I'm not so sure. My trucks build date is 10/6/11. I read TSB 11-11-13 which states the NOx sensor module should be replaced for P2200 on trucks built before 10/11/11. Is that only for a persistent P2200?
Noticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
View 8 RepliesHere is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
View 13 RepliesIt is a 1994 Ranger XLT, Regular cab, two wheel drive, manual transmission and I think it has rear ABS. A front brake line blew which drain the master cylinder. Also a couple of pieces of brake line at the rear had to be replace along with the rear wheel cylinders. After installing the new brake system components we were trying to bleed the system. After reading the repair manual I had it said that vehicles with rear ABS you are to bleed the ABS module before bleeding the rest of the system. There is a module where the book described it (driver's side inside the frame rail) with brake line running to it. I am assuming this is the rear ABS module? I didn't see anything that looked like a bleeder on the module. Where to look? Also when I open the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinder no brake fluid came out.
View 14 Replies