Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Bang Noise When Speed Up While Driving
Aug 13, 2017
While driving I went to speed up and heard a bang. I lost all drive. I have no movement in any gear. I got the truck home and looked around. Trans fluid looked and smelled ok. I couldn't move the rear drive shaft by hand with engine in neutral. I drained the transfer case and that fluid looked fine also. What it could be or what else to look for. The truck is a 2006 f350 with 6.0 and 185,000 miles. Up to this point I had no trans issues.
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My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
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I've mentioned in the recent passed a vibration I have and thinking it may be one of my hub bearings. Now I really can't tell if it's that or something else as it feels like powertrain when accelerating but at speed feels like I'm driving on gravel?? The vibration is a tight one if that makes sense..it's bugging me to death.
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38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
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I have recently bought a 04 f250 6.0, and it has the intake thumping noise that varies speed with idle... I was told it could be a broken rocker, a bent push rod, or a broken roller... I am not that much experienced with diesels. I've spoken to the dealership, and they don't wanna fix it, they said it wouldnt hurt it to drive it like that, but the noise bothers the hell out of me, and everyone notices it. so i wanna get it fixed. I am hoping its just a rocker. if it is just a rocker how deep am i in? truck has 240xxx miles on it, and runs perfect other than that noise.
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2012 F250. 15k miles. It's intermittent, speed related, some sort of resonance or harmonic. WoooOOMMmm....woooOoMm, maybe every two seconds at 70 mph. Worn out tires once made a similar sound on a car I owned. This was severe inner wear on the rears. I'm not sure whether it's new or something I just never noticed; it's subtle.
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I have a weird rubbing/squeak noise from what it sounds like the rear. It occurs only after ive been driving for about an hour then it never goes away. Thought it was the pads so I put all new ones on. Maybe a bearing of some sort. I'm totally going nuts over this and cant pinpoint it!
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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I have an 03 Excursion with 220,000 on the clock. Started getting harder starts randomly about a month ago, maybe a little more, pulled codes got p2290. Reset everything, changed the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, eventually the ICP sensor itself and rebuilt the IPR with new screen kit and rings. Hard start went away for about a week but ICP pressure was dropping drastically during hard throttle or even trying to go up a good sized hill. I had a bypass oil filtration kit on and noticed that the connection on top of the oil filter housing was weeping at idle and leaking enough at throttle to possibly cause an issue. Replaced with new OEM filter cap and fill cap, and ended up with a no start and low ICP pressure.
Got it started today after a long crank (15+ seconds), ICP and IPR at idle both warm and cold are mid 600's and low 20's (I can get actuals if needed). After reaching operating temp starts fine after shut off (both immediate and after sitting for 20 minutes). I picked up a selection of parts and tools including an ICP air test tool. Also grabbed a hpop gasket kit and the updated O-rings for the whole system. Live scanning wise I have an Edge CTS and also an SCT x4 that I can use.
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Saturday while moving some items for the inlaws my truck, while moving at slow speed, reduced power to the point where it almost stalled, anti lock brakes were growling, right rear tire was dragging the brakes skidding the tire. maybe ten seconds then ran normal. got to stop sign and made a right turn and at about 30 mph started doing the same on and off for maybe 30 seconds. All the time Advance Track light blinking 3 times then pause, and repeating.
Stopped in a parking lot for a couple mins, did not shut off but drove the rest of the way home normally. At home we could smell brakes cooking, right rear brake disk was very hot. Drove to dealer Sunday morn with Advance Track over-ridden and ran normal. What would happen at highway speeds or towing my fiver? Bet they cant reproduce the prob, left no code etc. You know what that means.... I will update later.
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What makes a 6.0 or 7.3 "clack"? I am not experienced enough with internals of a diesel to understand it.
Reason I ask, is my 6.0 is clackier than ANY other 6.0 or 7.3 that I have encountered. I mean it really cackles. Injector timing?
the engine was "bulletproofed" and (as the seller stated to me) was "flashed with a custom designed tune made by a Powerstroke specialist"... to which I have no further information on. This I assume was done for longevity and not performance.
Its quiet on the highway, but in town and stop-starts or low-speed acceleration it is crazy crackly.
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I was taking a trip the other day and needed to pass some slow traffic and found that the engine quit making power at around 95 mph. From 45 to 95 comes fast. Not good to have power stop when passing.
I know it is not safe to be driving our trucks at around 100 mph, but for a short burst to pass traffic, it is more dangerous to have the engine quit making power while you are trying to pass.
We purchased our truck new in 2012 so since I just found out about the problem, I have not had the truck up to 95 before now.
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So my fan speed sensor popped up on Torque. I almost never hear the engine fan in the first place. But once in a while I do. I've only ever heard it when I'm laden with enough weight to really strain the engine. It sounds like a freight train when it does kick on. Should I be worried? I've done the EGR delete. New oil cooler. 4" straight pipe from turbo to just behind the cab. 130k on the works. 6spd manual.
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I have a 2012 F350 I keep the hubs in auto all the time. In the winter I just flip the switch to 4 high when I hit snow conditions. I know to shift in or out I need to be below 55mph. How fast can I safely drive in 4 high on the interstate? I drive hundreds of miles at a time in the winter. Some times if the roads clear I will cruise at 70-80mph. This is a question of mechanical safety on truck components not driving safety.
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I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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I have an oscillation in the steering wheel at speed in a turn. Feels like the pump is trying to straighten the wheel then gives up then trys again then gives up etc etc..... The oscillation is slow so its not like the wheel is shaking or about to fall off. The faster you go the more pronounced it is the tighter the turn the more pronounced it is. Doesnt matter left or right. Seems like its there at any speed but just gets worse the faster you go.
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I've been searching and searching but I just cant find out the location of the Transmission Speed sensor, It would be the one that controls your speedo and Transmission pressure? Is it located on top of the rear differential?
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2005 6.0l - codes are P0261 Cylinder 1 injector circuit low. PO263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/balance and PO270 cylinder 4 circuit low. Ficm still reads 48 plus or minus .5. What is really puzzling is how changing the oil cooler and the EGR cooler would create these problems. Did I screw up the injector harness. Vehicle does not smoke either white or black. Low idle miss and at 55 it chugs once up to speed. Don't want to go Ford if I can avoid them. Whats going on.
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2012 6.7l CC SB SRW 4x4.
Truck has 9700 miles on it, bought it in December of 2012. Twice in the last week, when at about 60 mph on a flat road, maintaining speed with virtually no wind, there is a slow, gradual shudder from the rear wheels. Both times the truck has been on cruise control and if I add power, the truck does not accelerate and the shudder continues to increase. If pull power either by brake or canceling cruise, it stops and the truck performs as expected.
I have yet to have the time to reproduce this. My only hope is if the dealer is already aware. I plan on trying to reproduce it at some point with hopes of having something tangible for the dealer.
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I have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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