Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: BPD Remote Oil Cooler Hose Leak
Jul 19, 2017
2 1/2 years ago I installed a BPD remote oil cooler with BPD filter. The stock oil cooler was clogging up for the second time and didnt want to chance it. The BPD oil cooler works great. I have never seen high oil temps in any driving condition. Last week I was replacing the hubs and seals on the front of the excursion and noticed the oil was leaking from the 90 at the end of the hose oil filter location. I called BPD and sent them a picture. The 90 is corroded and is failing. They said something about a 2 year warranty but because of the rust they would not send one out for free. I purchased a new hose and the other 90 that goes right after it.
They recommended that I spray it with undercoating or something. I live in upstate NY and deal with a lot of salt on the roads in winter. I do keep the truck clean in winter as much a possible. I am posting this so if there are any others in similar situation you should do something to prevent that 90 from rusting like mine did. If I had known this when we installed it prob would not be replacing it now. Will be replacing it tonight or tomorrow. BPD said I will need a 1 1/4 crow foot or remove the turbo to get to the other end of the hose. Not posting this to bash on BPD just sharing so any others can prevent this part from rusting out.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 and almost 175,000. On vacation right now and noticed when I came out of a store that there was a puddle of water under the passengers side. Chalked it up to AC defrost. The second time I was not running AC and puddle again.
Felt and smelt of it...antifreeze. Just put in all new Zerex G05 and a new degas tank because when working on it I noticed a pin hole in the base before we left. I replaced the EGR cooler and hose from Sinister about 3 plus years ago.
Would the EGR cooler hose be leaking? I've noticed that white residue on top of the intake around the where the hose is. What would cause this, Heat, wear and tare....my luck ?
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My orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? I have decent tools.
I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.
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I am sure some of use around the forums have seen some of Diesel Tech Ron's videos, well in this video he is installing one of Bulletproof Diesel's remote Oil Coolers on a 6.0
Bulletproof Diesel's remote mounted oil cooler install on a 6.0 Powerstroke - YouTube
I like the idea of these if you ever have to do any work on the Oil cooler or replace it it would make it pretty quick and you don't have top spend a day tearing the engine apart
I haven't hear of too many people having issues with remote coolers set up's like this. Maybe there are some remote oil coloer owners that have em that can shed some light on how they have worked so far on their 6.0's ...
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I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
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I I have a pretty good o ring leak where the egr cooler meets with the intake. My question is can i replace the o ring without removing​ the intake. If so what is the process.
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I am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
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Can I change these out to hydraulic hoses with clamps that are rated for the fluid. Mine are rusted and starting to leak.
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Had a coolant leak I finally traced to the rubber hose on an egr delete (previous owner installed, not sure of brand). Looks like the jackwagon who installed it cranked the clamps way too tight and they eventually split the hose. I have a piece of heater hose that looks like the right diameter and cut to size should fit fine. I guess I am just looking for some reassurance that it would be ok to use in that situation...
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Just had to replace radiator at 38k on my 2012 SD. Now I have another leak at 41k. Looks like it's wherever the lower radiator hose leads. Kind of a weird junction. I don't think it's coming from above there, but not sure. It's the primary dgas bottle that was low. The radiator was covered under my ESP. We'll have to see what's up with this one. Been eying a denim blue SD at dealer, thinking this is going to talk me out of it though. Not especially happy right now.
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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The oil cooler mounted above the oil filter on my 2002 Explorer 4.0L V6 has a major coolant leak on one of the external line/hose bib elbow. I've googled Explorer oil coolers and I've searched this forum with no luck. Can you bypass it without any problems mechanically or electronically (throwing error codes)? I have already purchased a new cooler and the lower oil cooler line. I'm just wondering if I should return the parts and bypass it. If I go through the replacement, I noticed the cooler is mounted by a pass through threaded tube with a hex head molded into it for fastening/loosening purposes. What size hex head socket it is?
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What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
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Just found out that my EGR cooler is bad. How big of a job is this/how much down time if a compatent tech is doin the job?
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I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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I have a leak in my inter-cooler system. I have replaced all the hoses. Is there a reason I should not pressure test the system with 20psi? 2001 F350 7.3 turbo
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my mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
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My 2011 has 62k miles and has been throwing P0401 codes, which results in losing power. I assume the EGR cooler is clogged. So I went to the dealership to see if it's covered, and was told there's no warranty coverage.
I would rather blockoff the EGR cooler than repair it. I would also like the extra performance from a tuner like the MiniMaxx. I do prefer the stock exhaust and not real excited about the drone/smell that comes with deleted DPF.
Will I have issues if it's tuned with the EGR blocked off, and stock exhaust? Or am I better off doing a full delete at this point?
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Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
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