Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: At Low Idle Fan Running Like 230 Rpm Causing ECT To Rise?
May 15, 2017
So at low idle my fan is running like 230rpm according to torque pro. I think this is causimg my ect to rise when at idle. It's usually 192-194* but if I'm idling in traffic or just In general (after it's been running a while) it climbs to 195.8, 197, 199.2, 201, 203, 204.8. Haven't seen it get higher than the 204. Now once I get moving again it will lower back down. I can see where I have flow into the degas not to mention the water pump is new. Could my low fan speed be my issue? I believe it should be more around 500rpm at low idle.
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Last week I took my first long drive since taking in my truck for its 24000km service. Also first real drive on my new toyo m/t 275/70/18 ( same size as stock michelins )
About 1 hour into the drive, My exhaust regened, then slightly after I hit ( not held ) the ok button and it reset my trip. Which was strange as you need to hold it down to reset. But the bar just kept going. Then suddenly I went from 12.8 l /100 to 19 l / 100. Or converted it about 18-19 mpg to 14. After stopping and resetting the truck, it resumed 12.8 at 110 kmph.
Then today coming back on a 4-hour drive doing anywhere from 100 - 130 kmph ( 60 - 80 mph ) I could not get it to move off 13.8 l / 100 km. more then + or - .3
Is a 6 mpg difference normal for adding mudders? Or is my truck glitching or plugged somewhere.
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In your experience, what issues have you seen that caused intermittent rough running at idle, but did not throw a code. I have monitored (with numerous scanners/gauges) this 6.0, but cannot get a code or see any of the sensors out of spec.
At Hot idle:
IPR: 24.2
ICP: 640
ICV: 0.90
MAP: 14.7
MAF Volts: 1.5
EOT/ECT Deltas within 10 and Avg ECT=192, EOT=199
EGR Valve cleaned and EGR demanded = EGR Measured
Vehicle will run rough after long runs or towing. Cylinder Balance test showed all injectors on. What could be the cause?
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 with sct livewire, arp studs&gaskets, oil cooler, blue spring mod, sinister egr cooler and it had been giving me some real troubles lately. Started off as a code for injector #8 so I replaced that and while I was in there I rebuilt the oil rail with new nipple cups and orings, replaced standpipe and dummy plug in that bay(also updated the arc fitting less than a year ago), new exhaust back pressure sensor tube because it was right plugged with carbon, and a new egr valve because that was right packed with carbon as well, all backed together and torqued to spec from the Haynes manual and the truck still sounds like its missing at an idle with some light smoke(just smells like unburnt fuel). From there I went to test the ficm which is also only a couple years old and it seems to stay at a constant 48v so at this point...
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I have a 05 6.0l. Egr deleted. And my truck has a rough idle and power loss. Ive tested the ipr and the icp and they are reading at specs. I've also replaced the Hpop about 1500 miles ago. It has a real rough idle until it's at running temp. And it has power loss, I'll be driving down road and theres no where near has much power has there should be. And the idle will jump between 1500 rpm and 2000rpm.
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So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.
When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.
Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.
I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.
The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code....
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2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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I just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
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Previous owner of my truck installed a front leveling kit (2" aluminum shims under the coil spring seats) and was told by a dealer that it definitely lead to the wear and tear on the front end, specifically the track bar and track bar ball joints. They also stated it causing the truck to still pull to the left even when aligned because the geometry was off. My truck has 56k miles on it.
I was informed of this after months of trying to correct the death wobble. After 4 alignments at NTB, I took it to the dealer for diagnoses. I paid them to do the labor of replacing the track bar, but elected to remove the leveling spacers myself. Came out in about 45 mins, but had to purchase the shorter stock seat bolt from the dealer which was only available as a package with the coil spring seat...
Truck now rides better and seems perfectly aligned, before it pulled hard to the left. Wish I would have known about this earlier...
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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I am having a problem with a 6.7. The truck has 9900 miles on it. It has a dpf delete, egr delete, Spartan tuner and a snow stage 3 kit. The truck lopes at idle but once throttle is applied it levels out but still runs a little rough. Its keeps saying its in reduce engine power no matter how many times I clear the code. If I clear the code it will come back in 2 seconds with out cranking the truck or anything. Rail pressure is telling me 31090 psi and not changing running or not. I have changed rail pressure sensor, and pressure control valve with no result. The green and violet 5 volt reference that feeds those sensors is only putting out 1.2 volts. Put a new pcm in it still the same and now has quit running totally. The codes are P0193, P0335,and P06A6.
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I added LED lights to illuminate the running boards on my Lariat. Did this about 15 months ago and all was fine until this week and I noticed they weren't coming on any longer. Both sides are out of commission. The running board lights on each side are wired to the respective plug for the running board lights on each side. The interior lights that are on the same circuit work fine (fuse #12 in the passenger side fuse box).
So I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why both sides have gone out at the same time but the fuse is ok. It's winter here and my truck doesn't completely in the garage so I'm hoping to limit my time lying under the truck out in the cold, on a wet floor! I thought there might be another fuse in the engine compartment fuse box but there isn't, at least according to the manual.
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I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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Early build 6.0 (2003) starts fine in CT winter weather as long as its plugged in, HOWEVER, will not start after engine has been running! It just started doing this a week or so ago and after plowing all day yesterday, it just wont start after the engine is up to operating temp. It will start on a shot of ether but I only did that once to get it home.... Other than that, the truck runs great! I changed the oil today, checked the ficm (48V) and the injectors were all done less than a year ago. The only code I get every once in a while is Cyl 1 injector circuit low and that goes away on its own. I'm not really sure where to start.....
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So the other day while towing my 5er my temp alarm on my CTS went off at 220. I let off and it cooled down, but not where it usually runs. Unloaded it will run at 200 where it usually runs at 180 or less. Its an 06 EGR deleted, coolant filter, studs, the works. Water pump? Thermostat? Coolant level is ok.
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Dies while driving down the road and usually will restart with no problems.Seems to happen more often when it gets hot out. IPR/ICP are good.It took a long time to start once also. I'm leaning toward fuel pump but ?
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Finally, you can get EGT's with the Torque app!
I had to reinstall Torque on my new phone and EGT1 was in the predefined set of PID's for Ford. Launch Torque, the go to Settings, Manage extra PIDs/Sensors, Menu, Add perdifined set, select "Ford (Incl PowerStroke)". I believe it's getting data from EGT11 that is between the turbo and the DOC.
I included a graph that shows the truck running empty at 50-55 MPH, ambient air temp. ~50F and the EGT's are around 430F, at 60-65. They are 480-500F. If one of guys/gals with the Edge Insight/H&S/other tuner would be kind enough to confirm those numbers are correct.
This was on a 2 lane highway following a couple of old rock haulers, then I passed 'em.
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I recently noticed on my truck that my oil temp was running high, I would go down the interstate at 75 mph and the oil temp would get up to 215-218 while my coolant temp would sit around 192-196. So, I took it into the shop and was told it was most likely a bad oil cooler and had it replaced 2 years ago when I had my injectors and gaskets replaced along with my egr deleted. So, got the truck yesterday, going 60mph down the highway, truck ran an oil temp of 192 and the coolant at 188. Was great, but later on once I got to the interstate going my 75 mph, The oil temp jumped to 209 and my coolant sat at 192. Not sure what the deal is, was told the oil cooler was replaced and wanted some input on what else I could be looking at. I currently have 5w40 synthetic oil running in it. I have an EDGE CTS tuner on it and tuned it back to stock mode, but oil temp still jumps up to 209 and coolant remains around 190-192.
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