Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Air Filter Minder Light On Faintly All The Time
Oct 18, 2016
New 2005 6.0 Excursion owner here. The air filter minder light is coming on faintly all the time, whether or not the harness is plugged into the minder or not. The indicator on the minder itself shows that the filter is fine. I did a search on here and didn't find anything of relevance about this. Here is a picture with the light on bright in test mode, then dim as it is driving. The PO had it looked at and they thought they would have to remove the dash to dig deeper into it. The speedometer doesn't seem super accurate, either. It is definitely within 5 miles or so. I did the gauge test mode with the reset button, but it didn't seem to make any difference. Sounds like I might need to lube the speedometer cable based on other threads. Can I kill two birds with one stone with the dash removed and tackle both of these?
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Having problems with motor craft oil filter leaks. Every time I change my oil the filter ends up leaking. This has happened three times.
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Still chasing a surge for some time while cold, mainly. While hot and cruising 65 mph the turbo still surges faintly.. but today was a different story, very fast and high surging from the turbo only, while on overdrive as usual. It calmed down as i dropped the boost a bit but it was quick swings of about 3-5 psi which is quite bad for what it had been doing which was manageable.
Short of taking off the turbo, I took out the VGT solenoid and it had some oil burnt on the end, cleaned that up and pushed the plunger in all the way a few times and it 'seemed' to have worked greatly, until today.
I pulled some other numbers;
KOEO
Map 13.7
EBP 14.1
Baro 28.2
Cold Idle
Map 14.0
EBP 16.5
Baro 28.2
When cold, mainly below 130F the RPM gauge itself will surge or hesitate around 1700-2000 RPM. Any higher or lower it will be smoother I suppose....
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I am at 34,600 miles and had the oil changed yesterday afternoon. My son picked the truck up for me and on his way home the "drive to clean exhaust message" came on with the "check engine light" at the same time. I get home from work, re-check owners manual and no mention of the check engine light coming on with the drive to clean message.
I called my service rep and he says drive it as per owners manual, so I head out drive about 45 miles, averaging 60 mph nothing changes, both lights/messages are still on. Truck seems to be running fine and the last cleaning exhaust message was Sunday and I believe I was out long enough for it to do its job. It will go into the shop tomorrow, but was looking for thoughts from the the rest of you pros before I go.
I mention the oil change only because after the last oil change at around 30,000 miles I drive to work 2 days after and my water pump starts leaking.. coincidence I know.. but getting freaked out as I approach 36000 miles..Truck is a 2011 and I bought it new in Jan of 11.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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my 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
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Changed fuel filters today. Now my water in fuel light is coming on. But the truck is not running any different no sputtering or anything. ????? Could this be human error
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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OK what is the trick to changing the oil filter on the 6.7 without making a mess. My last truck, which was another brand, if I would let the truck sit for a couple of hours, I could get the filter loose, put a zip lock bag around the filter, & remove the filter without any drips. With the 6.7, even if I let the truck sit overnite, it seems like the oil doesn't drain from above the filter, & as soon as it comes loose my hand gets a bath. Any tricks to changing the oil filter.
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I had pretty much ruled out getting a bypass oil filter because I've read multiple times that the HEUI injectors of a 6.0 liter shears the oil regardless of filtration so that you shouldn't run extended oil change intervals even with the extra filtration. I'm wondering though if the cleaner oil would benefit the lifters and injectors within the regular oil change intervals, and if what I read before is correct about the shearing and not running extended oil change intervals. If I could run to say 7500 miles and it was better for the lifters and injectors than not running a bypass and changing oil at 5000 miles, then I might say it would justify it. I hear more and more about lifters in the 6.0 and want to everything I can to keep them operable.
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Ok so the speakership wants 200 bucks to replace and the filter alone is 100 bucks. Found some at auto zone for 65 and 85 or so. How often do you change your filter and where do you buy them?
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Can I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
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Can I replace my n/g oil filter that is defective w/o draining oil? I did oil change and filter is leaking, bad gasket. If I remove oil filter will it only drain what is in filter or entire engine?
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Within the last month I've had 2 cracked fuel filters the filter up by the engine...
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I pulled my air filter for inspection last weekend. The 6.7L airbox is segmented into two parts - One part is very large and contains the pleated paper air filter, as well as the air intake in the base. The other part is small and contains a half-section of the pleated filter, with a fine foam filter below. However, the foam extends out through a sizable hole in the bottom of the small compartment and runs down outside of the box nearly to the base of the entire air box (held on by some plastic straps).
What is the purpose of the foam and "secondary" air intake? Why not simply use one compartment with the paper air filter?
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New to me 2006 F350 6.0 dually. Going to change oil and filter as well as the transmission fluid.
Should I replace the transmission filter on the Auto I have or just have Jiffy Lube do their thing?
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I use motor craft filters on all my fords but I'm considering jumping ship on my 6.7l... Here's why:
Even with a small punch that is just shy of the total length of the filter, I still get a boat load of oil leaking out the side of the filter when I unscrew it. I'm pretty sure the anti drain back valve is still holding oil in the filter mount...which is what it is supposed to do.
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How many miles typically getting out of air filters? I kept watching the air filter gauge and never saw it changing as the miles added up. I'm at 22k miles now and finally opened it up and looked at it and decided it was time for the first change even though the gauge was not indicating it needed to be.
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Shot in HD as are all my vids, view in YouTube and force a 720p view to see better detail.
(Tap the title bar at the top of the video box; at YouTube tap the three vertical dots at the top right; select the quality gear icon; select 720p).
Over at TDS I did pictorials, some of which are in my TMT Facebook page.
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I spoke with a Ford diesel tech yesterday that said that he doesn't like coolant filters because if you don't change them frequently they will degrade and pieces of filter medium will then clog the oil cooler. If this is true, then that would completely negate the purpose of the coolant filter. I'm hopeful that it is flawed thinking as I am using a coolant filter system and would hate to find that it was a mistake.
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Well I finally had time to change out my composite oil pan to the metal one. Nothing was wrong with the old one but Ive seen the composite pans get hit by a rock and crack so I decide to get the metal one. It didnt take long once I had the oil drained and its very easy to get to. Once i had the old pan off I did find two piece of sludge stuck to the oil pickup screen, they had a sliver of aluminum in them. My oil reports have been coming back with high aluminum content so I am not really sure what to think being my motor had 33k miles on it now.
I also changed out the fuel filter and when I dropped the frame mounted filter I found about a teaspoon of rust in it. I'm not one to run my truck down to E but I admit I did so twice since the last filter change. Since I found the fuel filter kit for 60 buck(ford dealer wanted $140) I think I will move my fuel filter changes to 10k miles instead of 15k. Last but not least I also added SPE 6.7 Full Lock Diff Kit which allows the locked rear end to stay engaged past 20 mph. It was a simple 10 min installation with just a few wires and easy directions to follow
New oil pan
Composite pan
Old pan off and view of oil pickup
Two pieces of sludge that came off oil pickup screen
New pan on
Rust in the bottom
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