My 2006, King Ranch, 4x4, 6.0's air conditioner only blows from the defrost vent. I have done some research on here, but haven't seen anything that identifies as a common problem. I did however, notice that this problem is stemming from a vacuum issue.
View 10 RepliesMy 99' started o blow air only through the defrost vent today, and won't go through any of the other vents. I think this happens when your vacuum pump goes bad or there is a leak, correct? If so, how can I test these to figure out the problem.
View 2 RepliesWhen going down the road, the air blows threw the defrost and on the down hill it comes back to the vent.
View 14 RepliesI've got a couple different problems. The first one is that no matter what setting I have it on, air only blows out of the defrost vent.. Why this is happening? or is there already a thread about this? i saw a thread for this same problem, but it was for 2nd gen explorers.
The second problem I have is that there always seems to be air blowing from some where on the passenger side, unless i am accelerating. I can't seem to find where it is coming from but it makes a really annoying noise.
It is the 4.6L, AWD. not sure if that matters or not though.
My 01 ac has worked just fine up until today. I got in this morning to leave the house and the air was only coming out of the defrost vents. I tried playing with the controls to get it to switch but couldn't. I assume its a vacuum leak, but where do I need to start looking?
View 14 RepliesDefrost not working. Looking for the vacuum pump so I can troubleshoot it. Where to find it in the engine bay and trouble shooting it other than listening to whether it's on or not when engaging 4x4?
View 14 RepliesReplaced the vacuum solenoid.. Thought that would fix the ac blowing threw the defrost when I switch to 4x4, but didn't fix the issue, 4x4 works great. There is another little diaphragm that has a vacuum line to it that opens and closes, could this be causing the air to go defrost? I'm going to go to a buddies house and test for leaks this Saturday, just trying to get a jump on it...
View 1 RepliesHave 06 super duty . Heater air blowing only on defrost. 4wheel drive. Is this a vacuum problem or some type of sensor or control problem?
View 2 RepliesWe just got back from our first trip towing our 5'er. One of the things we encountered was the sun glare coming off the chromed air vent ring bezels. I am probably going to have them powder coated to stop the reflection. How to take the rings off the truck?
View 2 RepliesNo matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
View 8 RepliesLast night we had some serious rain and I went through a pretty deep water puddle at speed. I didn't see it until I was right on top of it. This morning I see a vent line of some sort hanging under the truck. The end is attached to the real axle on the left side and on the other end is a plastic connector. I have searched high and low and can not see where this connects to.
View 6 RepliesSo, I pretty unimpressed with the air in my 2011 SC 250. I keep the climate at about 69, and seems like is work about half as good as my 2010 F150 with climate did. When idling it blows almost warm, only cools when the RPMs are up there. My F150 seemed to be the same no matter what.
View 14 RepliesTraveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
Thought for sure that would fix my fan speed, but nope. Replaced blower control module, Still only blows on the highest setting. Didn't try running it on auto, but that's what it did on manually turning the speed up. What else could it be?
View 9 RepliesHad just got done filling up with diesel, drove 1/4 mile and truck just died. Tried to start it and nothing. No power to edge tuner either. Fuse #22 20a under steering column blown (engine control). Replaced and keeps blowing. not sure what is causing it. Just another wrench to throw in my wedding week!
View 13 RepliesSo I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
I have a 2006 f350 with 75k on it, has a mild sct towing tune, and 4' turbo abck dual exhaust. It recently started blowing whiteish smoke, so i did an EGR cooler and valve delete kit, and it stoppe dsmoking for a while.. coinsidence?
It has recently started again, at idle there is no smoke, and taking off slow from a stop, it doesnt ALWAYS smoke. but leaving a dead stop, if i get right into it, it billows whiteish smoke, and if im cruising, romp on it, let off it, then get on it again it will smoke.
Ive been told fuel pressure, injectors, turbo seal etc. when i had the down pipe off, no sticky black residue was present, so im counting out turbo seal (for now). I purchased the blue spring upgrade for fuel pressure, because i was told its not getting the right amount of fuel, once i get that ill throw it in and see if it fixes it.
whats yall's opinion? is it worth have it checked for a failed injector? as i said, no EGR in the truck, no loss of coolant either, oil is clean. It does seem a little sluggish at times off the line now as well.
I have looked through every post and idea possible with no remedy for my no start condition. I have tried everything that I am capable of doing without diagnostic computers and other specialized tools. A little history of what happened. While idling in the parking lot for a few minutes, truck all of the sudden start running rough, and acts like it is going to quit. Hurried out of the parking lot to make sure that I made it home, but the the truck would only get up to about 25 MPH, but I finally made it home(about 3-4 miles).
NOW, the truck won't start at all, but just cranks. Some more detail about how it cranks. It cranks fast, I separated the batteries by disconnecting the grounds on each, and made sure both are charged. Batteries are only 3 months old from Ford Dealership. As the engine cranks, oil pressure registers after a little while, (longer the first time for some reason), and as soon as oil pressure shows up on the dash indicator, black smoke starts coming out of the exhaust. The engine is trying to start a little bit, but it mostly just cranks.
Things that I've done: Changed fuel filters, Motorcraft (new orings). At first the pump was pumping large bubbles through the line up into the upper fuel filter, but after sitting it appears that it is not pumping bubbles anymore, and I cycled the Key more than 10 times. Did the bubble test while upper filter was removed. Unplugged ICP sensor. Pulled EGR, installed new one. Pulled oil filter and made sure that oil is pumping.
Checked FICM voltage, with key on Injectors buzzing, also engine cranking for quite a while. Never dropped below 48.5 V. Pulled FICM just incase and performed repair procedure, still same volts and no start. Coolant level is good. Checked oil level. unplugged EGR. Checked filter Minder. checked for chafing on FICM harness. Unplugged MAF. Checked FICM relay operation, Fuses all around. I need this truck to run.
I have a 2010 ford focus with 153,000 miles. Recently my wife and I went on vacation and the car was idle for two weeks. When the car was driven, the air conditioner only blows hot air. I had someone check the Freon level and it was good. Why this might have happened?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Taurus which I bought in the Winter and didn't check the air conditioner. It only blows hot air on any setting, some settings blow more hot air than others. I will have to pay to remove the dash to find out. Here's the weird part, last summer the coolant was a little low and I was stuck in a drive thru line. I watched the temperature go up until, lo and behold, the air conditioner kicked in and blew frigid air! It came on and worked twice more that day. I filled up the coolant and it hasn't worked since.
View 5 RepliesI have a Buick park avenue 1998, 3.8L V6 engine. the problem is: The ac vent on the driver's side blows cold air but on the passenger side blows EXTREMELY hot air. no matter how cold or hot you set the ac it blows at the same temperature on both sides. Florida heat is setting in and my passengers are melting. I am really hopping that is not something to bad and that I can fix it myself. Tip: this started happening after i had the alternator and the battery replaced.
View 1 Replies