Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: AC Blower Stuck On Full?
May 29, 2017
I have a lariat (auto climate control) and I just finished reassembling the engine and I noticed that the AC blower goes on full whenever you turn the key on.
According to the AC panel it seems to be off. Where should I start looking? AC is very important here... its already regularly over 100 degrees here.
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Well besides the pyro breaking friday BEFORE live tuning,and the exhaust leak I gained on the way to Texas(not inpart of the pyro not working). Now the fuel gauge is stuck on full. It looks good,200+ miles and still on full. Could it be the gauge,or possibly just the sending unit? Maybe a fuse?
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My truck gave me the message that "DEF under 1/2 full", so since we are on the road, I stopped by a dealer and picked up 5 gallons of motorcraft DEF. I did not want to get the countdown message in an unfamiliar area and have to look for it. While going out site-seeing, I forgot and left it in the back seat of the truck for about 8 hours in the heat of the day. I know you are supposed to store it under 86 degrees or so. Now, did I just ruin 5 unopened gallons or is it still safe to use?
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I have a 2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0L Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 signal rear wheels Ford tow package. After market options Bully dog power put and outlook controller.
Next the problems When they started and order pleas stay with me.
I purchased a goose neck horse trailer and after hooking it up, plugin in the tight and break round plug I found that the trailer lights did not work. I inspected the plug on my truck I found that the wires were cut next to the plug so I purchased a after market plug and swapped the two out and the lights worked. Excepted the right turn signal did not work.
I thought I was good and then the problems started during the six hour trip home at night my turn lights and break lights ceased to work on my truck and trailer the running lights and head lights work on both. After I returned home I looked for shorts and bad fuses I never found any.
After that I started to accumulate problems.
The Outlook controller would occasionally loose signal and turn off and on and the door ajar is on all the time. After that the I had the oil filter fail and pieces of it went through the IPR screen causing the IPR to fail I know its unrelated but it is. After having a no start condition and replacing the IPR all my gauges would go peg to peg when trying to start. I put a long hard charge on the batteries and got them to a full charge of 12.6CV and had no problem starting any more. I did find at the time I hooked up the charger is that one of the batteries blew off one of the cell covers.
But what happened next.
The truck lost full electrical systems as in the 4x4 switch quit working, the power locks quit working, door chimes quit, the transmission would not shift into overdrive and the tow light flash and now the Outlook Controller flashes on and off so bad I can hardly get the codes off it. The auto headlight quit.
Most of the things I could reset by un plugging fuses and relays to get them to work.
OK the now, I changed the batteries today with new ones and found out the old ones were only at 75% and that fixed some of the problems. The problems I still have is the transmission, turn signals, break lights and Outlook flashing on and off. By the way the Outlook is plugged in the systems plug under the dash.
These are my codes
P0360 ignition coil j primary (I do not know what this is or where I can find it.)
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient (Is this the EGR cooler I did a EGR Delete by puting freeze plugs in both ends)
P0603 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error ( I have no clue about this, this started when I lost the IPR durring all that cranking.)
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So I started to NM from fort worth texas with my 33" camper blew my CAC pipe four times. Finally got there. In the morning it took longer than expected to start. When it did white smoke. That was replaced with black smoke under full throttle.
I went from elevation of 700 to 8000 Ft. Should I care about black smoke? Meaning should I take it to Ford and get a rental car to get it looked at for our trip home.
96 degrees towing at 70mph with lots of climbing mountains.
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Just got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
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The DEF low caution is on and counting down the miles to go but the DEF tank is full. The caution goes away for a start or two then comes back. She's a 2015 F250 with the 6.7L. I love this truck but its starting to really bug me. I don't know if its related but she's been in the shop four times for warranty repairs to the wiring harness in the past couple months. Apparently there were loose connections in a couple of cannon plugs that the've now bypassed which were causing loss of communication between computers...
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Thought for sure that would fix my fan speed, but nope. Replaced blower control module, Still only blows on the highest setting. Didn't try running it on auto, but that's what it did on manually turning the speed up. What else could it be?
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fuel gauge does what it wants? It goes down to half way then goes back to full or sometimes even empty. Not a big deal for me because I have gotten used to it. But I would hate to have my wife in here and she thinks it's good and run out.
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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New 2015 KR. Has 2191 miles on it so far, 69 engine hours and 21 idle hours.
Truck is telling me exhaust fluid is under half full. I thought a full tank of it was supposed to last around 7k miles???
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My fuel gauge acted pretty weird today. When I left my house today it was just above half a tank. I was sitting in traffic quite a bit and then looked down and it was below the e. I knew it wasn't empty so I kept going. Got to work. Went for lunch and it said full drove about 5 mins to eat and it went down to half a tank. What's going on? I am thinking of the fuel sender or wiring?
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I posted a few threads about the P04DB code over the past several months. Last month while on vacation it came back and this time I was getting an engine light. So I finally got around to taking it in. The A/C blower was also making a clicking noise so I thought I would take care of both of those. At 41k and 42 months in service, the factory drive train warranty covered the CCV sensor replacement. The fan blower had to be replaced. So if getting that P04DB past 3/36, it is covered under the 5/60.
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My coolant cap is stuck and won't come off? How can I get it off?
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Yesterday truck starts running like it gas no power and I look and th IPR % is stuck on 89. I finally shut it off started back up and all is well. This sensor was replaced 2 months ago and it's a factory item. What would cause this?
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2004 f350. Trucks starts, runs, normal. But just noticed the gauges are not moving. Speedo stuck at 50, tach is at idle. Lights up just fine.
Have a code for the fuel sender, had that issue for awhile now, but also have u1262.
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I haven't used my gn ball for probably 3 years went to pull it out and flip it over to use it and it is stuck solid. Tried pb blaster trans fluid hammering on it jacking the truck up by it heating it and no go. How to get it out.
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06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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New to me 05 6L. I bought it out of town and they delivered it today, I picked it up and noticed the fuel gauge was way past empty, no fuel warning light or anything on.
So I mistakenly decided the fuel gauge wasn't working right (they just drove it 200 miles) as theres no way the seller would cut it that close on fuel.
I drove it to insurance place did another errand before I got fuel. Shut it off and it wouldn't start again. Tried it a couple times before it clicked it was out of fuel.
Borrowed a truck and went for fuel. Still no start , took the top off fuel filter , nothing in it. Recycled key 10 times still no fuel?
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I was just wondering, is it normal when plowing to get stuck in the snow? Last year I got stuck and had to get pulled out, yesterday I got stuck again and when I have it in 4x4 hi, one front and one rear wheel spins. 4x4 low, the opposite front and opposite rear spin from hi. I want ALL 4 WHEELS TO SPIN! I'd NEVER get stuck if that happened! How do I get that to happen? I hear of a detroit locker. Do you need one for each wheel? I always thought as I was flying past everyone in the snow with a huge smile on my face, that all of my wheels were powered.
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My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
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