Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: ABS Will Engage When Apply The Brake Pedal On Sharp Turn
May 3, 2017
I have an ABS issue. Coming off the free way ramp my abs will engage when I apply the brake peddle. This only happens turning right. doing the same to the left seems to feel something but not as apparent as to the right. I have no ABS light on and no code.
Last year I replaced the left front wheel hub. but didn't have any issues until this. One more thing I was getting a feeling on my brake pedal last week as if my front rotors needed to be replaced. So I did. Rotors and pads. still feel the same. could my rear rotors need replacing as well?
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I have an 04 6.0 psd and if I am stopped in drive with the brake pedal down I can't turn my steering wheel at all. If the truck is in park and my foot off the brake pedal I can turn the steering wheel both ways just fine. When I am driving I don't have any problems with the steering. I have checked the power steering fluid and it is full. This makes it kind of hard when I am trying to pull in and out of parking spots. What could be causing this and what the solution would be to fix it?
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Have 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
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On my way into work this morning I had one of those everybody needs to stop NOW moments. Hit the brakes hard, really hard with wheels chirping and all, after i got mostly slowed down the pedal gave way and went to the floor. I let up and pushed again and they were fine, but at that point I didn't need to hit them that hard again. The rest of the way in they worked fine braking normally, and before hand as well.
I'm thinking the master cylinder is going bad. Any tips on diagnosing for sure?
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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Ever since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
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I have an issue with my 2011 SD. When i press on the brake pedal I get a message saying I have a trailer connected and then when I step on the brake pedal again it says trailer disconnected. This happens every time I touch the brake pedal. I have replaced the trailer connector 7 way plug thinking that was the issue to no avail.
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I know lots of you say these stock Rancho's suck, but I'm wondering if it's just the ride that improves? I have some clunking under the truck when I go over "sharp" bumps that normally I would say is something loose or maybe a bad ball joint...except I have it in the rear as well. Is that a symptom of these stock ranchos? I don't mind the stiff ride, it's the noise that's bothering me.
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Your breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
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While driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
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2004 F250 6.0L!!
An issue I noticed right off the bat was that whenever I had the driver side turn signal on, and the brake was applied, the turn signal freezes.
I took apart the tail light and found a concoction of wires...I posted a diagram illustrating what it looks like.
There is this pesky Red wire that is spliced into the tail light bulb socket wire (specifically the green wire).
There is a trailer brake installed...if this means anything. I've tried disconnecting that with no luck on fixing the issue.
How to further troubleshoot would be great...electrical work is not my forte!
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Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
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Ok 2011 ford f350 6.7. Turn key on, no crank, no start. Trailer brake module failure flashes on the screen. If you leave the key on after 5 to 10 minutes the heater kicks on and you can start it. Runs down the road, hitting every pot hole for 1000 miles fine. Shut it off, try to immediately restart, same thing. If you hook up a booster box to it it starts. Replaced both batteries, cleaned cables. Scanned it, only codes are with the instrument panel : loss of communication with trailer brake module, with abs, with heat and air, and with parking aid modules. Tried to scan abs, parking aid, and brake, scanner would not communicate. When it is running communicates fine with them. Need a direction to go from here?
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I have a 2003 that won't engage all the time. I have manual locking hubs.
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0 liter crew cab. It's all stock minus the FICM and bullet proof I did a few years ago when I purchased the truck. truck runs amazing with 136K miles on her, but i rarely drive the truck and she's been sitting. SO, I went out to start her up because it's been in the low teens and I wanted to keep the battery up to par. When I had turned the ignition key on to start the truck (after I cycled the glow plugs), I could hear the starter spin but instead of turning the truck over, it made a grinding noise followed by a spin type sound which I assume is the drive gear of the starter not engaging. I can get her to start but it takes multiple attempts.
Once she's warmed up, it seems to stop grinding when i try and start it which makes me think it's more of a resistance issue, possibly a relay. BTW, where is the starter relay on our trucks? I am wondering if the cold has something to do with the proper power and amps to the starter via the relay causing the starter not getting enough power to the starter. Anyway, I'm hoping there is a way to diagnose this through my torque program by looking at amps but not sure which parameters to look at on torque android.....I'm hoping it's a relay problem instead of a starter problem. I really dont want to replace a starter with a bum shoulder.......in the cold to top it off
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With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
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I had a nice level straight stretch in front of me and engaged the cruise control. No go! I tried a few more times and it still did not engage, even with various button sequences. My thought was that this truck is a computer on wheels. So at the next opportunity I stopped and shutdown the engine, turned the ignition switch OFF and then restarted started the engine (and rebooted the computer). The cruise control works fine!
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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Is there a way to auto engage the Tow/Haul mode when you plug in a trailer that requires brakes? Be nice since I sometimes forget to push the button after we stopped for lunch...
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If the truck is cold when i put it in drive it engages fine. Drive to the store, start it up again after its warm, I then need to rev to 800 rpm to get it to engage. Once drive is engaged one time i can go from park to drive, rev to drive doesn't matter it works correct every time. Rebuilt the transmission with suncoast kit. New precision industries billet torque converter. New trans pump, new valve body, replaced all pistons and seal rings. Replaced all the solenoids except lo rev and overdrive. Will change those in the next couple days. Side note transmission had this exact issue before i rebuilt it. Exhaust back pressure reads 55 to 60 psi at idle. I replaced sensor, cleaned pipe, and checked the wires for cuts. Previous owner had a smoke switch wired up at some point but he removed it before i bought it. Truck is tuned by innovative, sxt livewire... does the same thing with stock tune.
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I don't think it's possible but is there any way to stop this message from popping up in the info centre Every Single Time I exceed 30kmh while the locking diff is engaged? It's winter here on the Canadian prairies and roads are generally snow and ice covered where at live. Makes driving in town really annoying. On My '11 SD I only had to clear it once per drive cycle.
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