Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: A/C System Works Intermittently?
Jun 25, 2017
So you can see from the photo my AC condensor is pretty well f'd. My AC guy at work says I prolly wont be able to straighten the fins back out. My ac in the truck works when it wants to. At idle pretty well but driving it warms up. Sometimes works great, usually when its cold out. I'm sure this mangled mess isn't working. My question is, replace just yhe condenser or so compressor and accumulator at the same time? I don't know what is actually wrong with the system and don't "want" to spend the extra $ on the other items if I dont need them. But I kinda feel like I might as well.
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Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
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It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
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Sunday I received the dreaded DEF system fault message on my 2012 CC SRW SB FX4 with 7800 miles on it. Warned me that speed will be reduced to 50 MPH in 50 miles. I have a CTS Insight, so I checked for DTC's. First one was P2200 - NOx sensor circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), the second one was P204F - Reductant system performance (Bank 1).
After 50 miles it warned me that speed would be reduced to 50 MPH on next restart. Sure enough, Monday morning speed was limited to 50. I took it to the dealer, but I should have left it running. When the service guy started it, the fault had cleared and it no longer showed the P2200 NOx sensor code, although the P204f code was still there.
My question is, why in the world would Ford make it so that the code is cleared if the fault goes away, especially after putting you through the 50 MPH limit scenario?
Dealer did a reflash and said its OK now, but I'm not so sure. My trucks build date is 10/6/11. I read TSB 11-11-13 which states the NOx sensor module should be replaced for P2200 on trucks built before 10/11/11. Is that only for a persistent P2200?
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I have an 04 F350 and I was wondering if the fan is supposed to be locked up when the A/C is on. In max A/C with the fan on 3 it's barely keeping cool in the 95 degree heat we have been having. If I rev the engine I don't hear the fan noise like I do when the coolant temp hits 218 and the fan roars. Freon was replaced several months ago, along with receiver/dryer and orifice tube when I did the HG's. The A/C shop drew a vacume and did not find any leaks.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel. The truck came with an auxiliary fuel tank in the bed, but how it works. There is a keyed switch in the cab next to another regular switch, and I have not had the courage to try either of them yet since the whole thing looks like a DIY job. I did look under the truck, and can see what appears to be some sort of solenoid setup.
Just wondering, how it works and if it is safe to operate. I do not see any rollover valve, and want to make sure I do not overfill the tank if I use it.
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I have a 2012 Lariat fairly well loaded out. However, the so called "auto" window button on the drivers door works auto in down only. Just curious if something is wrong with mine because it is will not do auto for raising the window. One would think that on a truck the auto would work both ways. I know on my Expedition it works both ways. Just wondering if mine was faulty before I go to the dealer.
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Currently truck is in the shop after having multiple episodes where it lost power. It has 47,000 miles on it. When pushing down gas pedal, just does not want to go. Very slow to shift through the gears and get to highway speed. Turbo was not there, and there was also a hard shift/jerking from 2nd - 3rd. Did notice the traction control sensor kick on a couple of times....which was just replaced since a hole rubbed through the wiring. (took it to Ford twice before they found the problem)
They told me today that the code generator said to look at wiring but they did not find anything (heard that before) and that the fuel is possibly contaminated with DEF. If that is the case, someone is messing with my truck! What I don't understand that if the DEF does turn out to be in the fuel tank, wouldn't we have the problem continuously and not intermittently over a month after driving thousands of miles and going through numerous tanks of fuel? We drive and average of 60 miles per day just for work, half interstate/city.
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My ABS light keeps coming on randomly. Sometimes it's on for a full day sometimes a few seconds. It's pretty weird because it doesn't throw a code or anything. Where to go from here.
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I have a 2011 F250 w/6.7 Powerstroke. Love it. In September I came out of work, turn the key to on position...no glow plug indicator light, no high pitch whine of the fuel pump and most importantly, it won't crank. Gauges all light up, but no glow indicator, no fuel pump sound and no crank. Get towed to dealer. Next morning they try it, and it starts right up. They can't get it to fail. Sent me home with no trouble found.
A few weeks later, same condition in my garage. I had thought that maybe there was some sort of safety switch that perhaps thought it wasn't in park. I put in neutral, roll back about 6 inches, glow plugs light, fires right up. Now I think I'm on to something. In the last 2 weeks, it happened 2 more times, and both times I'm able to get it to light up by rolling a couple inches. Then, last night, same problem, but parked against a curb. Try to push up hill, but no luck.
Have to get towed to dealer again. Tow truck drops at dealer, and because I knew it would, I tried to start, and it worked. Dealer called me, says they can't get it to fail (again), but found one battery was "bad". I'm not really buying the battery story, but also understand the dealer having trouble figuring out what is wrong when nothing goes wrong for them.
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My truck will intermittently sound like an old 7.3 clattering away. It's done this for some time now. If I accelerate briskly it'll quiet down. When I first got it (used) it was quiet as a church mouse. It seems to normally be during the 1st 20min or so of a run. Weather and fuel doesn't seem to be a factor nor does it matter whether I have additive in the tank or not. My truck is a May '10 build 2011 with about 60k miles on it now.
Is this normal? Same 7.3 noise from the 6.7?
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Running down the road today and the battery light came on. Went on and off intermittently as I drive home and the tuner showed 11.5v. Got home, shut it off (didn't mean to) and restarted it. Tested voltage at the batteries and was over 14. Need to take it for a drive and see if it repeats.
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Dies while driving down the road and usually will restart with no problems.Seems to happen more often when it gets hot out. IPR/ICP are good.It took a long time to start once also. I'm leaning toward fuel pump but ?
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2003 F-350 dually. The brake lights will come on briefly then go off while the truck is sitting parked. Replaced the brake light switch on the pedal and it still does it.
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Have been working on military diesels for years. I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0. I am currently waiting for a new oil cooler as I have oil coming from my coolant reservoir and no coolant in my crank. My question is I have been having my engine light coming on and off intermittently since deleting my EGR cooler.
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Having an issue with my 05 f350. Seems when I chomp on the the throttle I get tons of boost 30 lbs plus with no power. Seems most prevalent when starting on a hill , or hard on the throttle off the line . Also getting turbo "bark " when backing off throttle. It's less prevalent when feathering the throttle and usually more noticeable 1/2 throttle or more. I'm thinking could be the Vgt actuator or clogged/ dirty ebp sensor?
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This is a 2007, 143K F350 Sometimes will sit for a week before I use it. It has a mind of its own. Some days it will start right up and if I put it in gear it stalls. I have to wait for the EOT to come up to normal temps. Yesterday I drove it to the store that's a mile away and when I pulled into a parking spot it just stalled as if I turned it off. Doesn't happen all the time.
I do use a scan gauge on it all the time.
Cold Start
Key on Engine off
IPR-14.81
ICP- 0
FICM 48
Start up
IPR-31.21
ICP-917
FICM 48
MAP- 14.6
ECT 90
EOT 82
As its getting warm
ECT 126
EOT 111
IPR 27.3
ICP 712
put into R and Drive
ICP- 711
IPR 25.3
In Neutral
Brought RPMS up to 2000
IPR 32
ICP 1000
FCIM 48
RPMS at 3000
IPR 49
ICP 1800
FCIM 48
Back to Park and ideling
ECT 164
EOT 155
IPR 23.8
FCIM 48
MAP 15
ICP 585
I'm trying to elimate ICP and IPR, Do these numbers look correct?
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I have a 2012 f350 srw that I'm trying to rectify an intermittent p1249 dtc. What I found initially was a broken vacuum line from the egr solenoid valve to the activator. This made the truck run good and the dtc code cleared. It came back two weeks later, the truck did not go into the reduced power mode. I pulled the MAP sensor to test it and it was completely plugged with soot.
I replaced the MAP sensor and removed the upper intake, cleaned out the soot, which was considerable, vacuumed out the lower manifold cleared the code. It went without a cel for about 1000 miles and came back. My questions are: where to go next and if the soot is normal for a 116K engine would I be better served by deleting the egr/dpf/def?
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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Ok, so I have a 2004 F250, with 6.0L. when driving at a steady speed (doesn't matter what speed), the engine will run rough when coming to an idle, and stay running rough until I shut it off and let it sit for a bit.
After I cycle the key a few times it will fire up and run fine, so I came to the conclusion that air is getting in the fuel system. I then took the filter cap off that is located in the engine bay and cycled the key, which produced a lot of bubbles, which I am assuming shouldn't happen.
I guess my question is, should I have air bubbles in the filter bowl, when cycling the ignition?
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Been having a problem with fuel pressure dropping under acceleration intermittently. Normally runs around 65psi, sometimes at idle or normal driving is only 55-60psi lately. Most of the time it has done this it dropped to 50 and I let of the pedal and it will slowly go back to around 55. Then I just baby it and it will slowly creep back up to 60 or maybe 65. A couple times it has gone below 50 after letting of the pedal and wouldn't go back up, so I actually pulled over and shut the engine off and cycled the key to get it back up. Once this happened while towing up a hill, I could only get to around 35mph really had to baby it and at the top I pulled over and cycled the key and it came right back up. At the time I attributed it to the steep hill, 11k trailer, and the tank only being about 1/4 full.
Since I put the fuel gauge on way before any of this started happening, it has always fluctuated 2-3psi at idle. I always thought it was kind of odd, maybe pointing to combustion gasses entering the injector through a bad seal or something weird like that, but a couple of people have told me that fluctuation is normal.
I'm thinking there's either a restriction in the fuel pickup or the pump is going bad. This problem happens even when the tank is full, but seems worse on a low tank. I change my fuel filters every 10k mi, I'm at about 9k right now so I guess it could be dirty filters? Got lots of towing over the passes coming up as fishing season is just starting and I'm sure we'll be spending as many weekends we can at the beach camping.
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