Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: A/C Leak Found - Rubbing Metal To Metal Caused The Pinhole
Jun 18, 2015
Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
View 1 Replies
My Elantra's HVAC fan has always been a quiet thing, even on 3.....we won't mention level 4 and the fact it sounds like a 747 at takeoff.
I kid you not, the very evening I hit 60,000 miles and the general warranty expired, the blower motor started making noise like it was throwing a bearing and definitely sounded like some light metal-on-metal rubbing. After I became irritated at this, the noise went away and didn't come back until just a few weeks ago. I could make it stop by smacking on the bottom of the fan assembly a few times but I want a more permanent solution.
Tonight I dropped the blower out which was stupid easy except for the fact you're upside down in the dark with your head in a hole. But three screws and an electrical connector later, I dropped the assembly to find no serviceable components. I mentioned this to friend of mine who's into Volvos suggested spraying some lithium grease on the hub of the blower and letting it run long enough to quiet it down. I'll do this over the next few days and report back but part of me thinks a new blower may be in my future.
View 53 Replies
I have a base v6. When I turn the steering wheel (for example, to make a left turn), it sounds like there is metal-on-metal rubbing. The wheel is not extended (turned all the way til it stops)...
View 2 Replies
I am in the process of replacing my water pump. After I removed the pump, I found quite a bit of metal-on-metal wear between the impeller and the water pump housing. Is this common?
I've been running a coolant filter on my system for years now, so hopefully its been effective at collecting some of the metal that has clearly been worn away. Either that, or this is a sign that the filter isn't working at all!
I'm a little worried that the new pump will scrape the scars left from the old pump.
View 9 Replies
I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
View 14 Replies
I have a 2011 Ford F-350 with 6.7L I have had cooling issues when pulling a trailer up a grade it heats up where it hadn't in the past. I had it in the shop 4 times before it went out of warranty and they changed the oil cooler and thermostat. The last time it was in the shop was November which it was to cold out to duplicate problem. It's heating up on just about every grade and now it's out of warranty when it should have been fixed last year.
I'm guessing it's the water pump because when I changed the antifreeze there was metal shavings in it. I told my dealer about it and they said it was probably from manufacturing. I haven't called dealer yet because I think it should be covered under warranty since the problem was never fixed after being in the shop last year!
View 8 Replies
So after a hot drive yesterday we thought to do some googling about our clutch cycling on and off so fast. Yep, the airgap was out of spec. Fixed that.
Then we added some refrigerant to the truck. The truck is "new to us" and this is our first summer with it so not sure what might've gone on previously with the AC. Didn't take long to find a rather sizable leak. :P
See that metal tube going into the "spongy" area? Yeah, that's where it seems to be coming out. That tube is the only one that's cold, the rest are ambient temp. We fix a lot on our jeeps, but the AC system is naturally a bit out of our wheel house since it's not something you normally tangle with. Is this an easy fix? Or do we need to take it in to get serviced?
View 12 Replies
While I was changing the oil yesterday, I also changed the fuel filters. The primary filter had some debris that was confirmed by a magnet to be metal. I have seen a little bit of this all three times I have changed the filters. The filter itself is very clean, but there remains a small amount of metal slightly more coarse than filings.
I don't really have any concerns that it could be coming from the HPFP because that is after the secondary filter and would not be returned to the tank. Also anything from the HPFP would have fouled several injectors by now. I don't even think there is any iron in the pump.
I guess it could be useful to put a magnet in the water separator reservoir, but I don't even know what good that would do since the debris is large enough that it is being caught by the filter and of course the secondary filter is even less microns. It would just be nice to know where in the world this stuff comes from.
View 14 Replies
I found 2 Ford OEM part numbers for what seems to be the same identical metal CAC Tube for the drivers side.
6C3Z-6C640-AA
and
6C3Z-6C646-BA
I wanted to place an order today for my '06 but want to make sure it's the right one. What is going on here? (maybe one is for a '03-04) I Don't know...
View 14 Replies
Changed my filters and this was in the bottom of the filter housing. I looked on the pleats and down in the center didn't find anything. Went to two Ford diesel techs one said is was the hpfp and should do the the whole fuel system. The other said if the hpfp was coming apart the shaving would not be in the bottom of bowl and to check the filter again in 5k miles. No check engine light, drives great, no other problems.
View 14 Replies
Are you supposed to reuse the old metal gasket or leave it out?
2006 F350 4X4
View 14 Replies
I have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2011 f450 that I just bought and it has the plastic oil pan. I see that the newer 6.7 have the metal lower oil pan. Is there a good reason to change over to the metal pan? Is the 1/4 turn drain plug the problem?
View 13 Replies
I've got a late 99 7.3 truck that I just recently did a lot of work on. I installed a new turbo with bellowed up pipes and a new exhaust system and when I went to start it up it started leaking fuel in the back pretty badly. Initially I thought it was the banjo bolt or the passenger fuel line but looking at it more closely I realized that it's not coming from there. It's dripping all over the side of the starter and is collecting at the low point of the metal lines down below. I also saw small droplets coming out of the up pipe where it meets the manifold but it looked like nowhere near enough to produce the kind of leak I'm seeing, also I know fuel shouldn't be coming out of the up pipe to begin with. This is really annoying and I would like to drive my truck again.
View 14 Replies
I changed my oil and found some metal particles in there... not a whole lot, but if you look at the oil pan in the sun you can definitely see a "glittery" effect... the particles are nowhere near big enough to be able to feel in your finger, but you can see them....
I have already dropped the oil pan and inspected the crank bearings... they all look good.. I did not remove the rod caps, I didn't want to dig into it too far, but now I am at a point where I am thinking.. maybe I should tear it all down and find the source..
I need a new clutch, not sure why the clutch didnt last more than 9000 miles, but I was told it should be covered.. And with that.. since I need to drop the trans anyhow.. and I need to find the source of metal... Maybe I should just remove the entire engine/trans together and make one big job out of it??
I really am hoping it's the turbo putting metal into the oil since that is the newest unit of the system.. and it would be covered under warranty as well.. Tough decision really.. I admit the 3.2 VR6 is a bit overwhelming when it comes to disassembly.. not to mention all the fasteners that need to be replaced...
View 16 Replies
I thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
View 14 Replies
I replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
View 2 Replies
What we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
View 2 Replies
I have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.
My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?
Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?
View 5 Replies
I have intermittent metal on metal grinding noise. Seems to happen when I am at highway speed. Seems to go away when I put it on 4 wheel drive or slow way down. On one occasion though, the grinding noise did not stop even after putting on 4 wheel drive - had to stop completely before it went away (did not come back after I drove off again). Diagnostics so far....
Unhooked the vacuum lines on passenger side actuator and hooked up vacuum gauge. Vacuum held at 20 psi and drops and raises slightly as the truck is being revved. Takes about 10 seconds for vacuum to drop to zero once truck is stopped. Putting it on 4 wheel drive drops it to zero immediately. Exact same scenario on the passenger side.
This leads me to believe my IWE solenoid is ok. So also my check valves. Next opportunity I get, I will raise one wheel, remove the vacuum line on that wheel and apply vacuum with my pump. Want to see if it will turn my half shaft.
2004 F150 FX4 ....
View 7 Replies
