Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: A/C High Pressure Cutoff Switch - Part Number
Mar 16, 2017
Probably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
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What is the part number for the high pressure oil rail check valves for a 2003 6.0L? I'm referring to the ones that screw into the oil rail. I would like to avoid the local dealer if possible.
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Looking to confirm the part number. My ICP is mounted on the RH valve cover and has a yellowish upper where the three pronged connector inserts.
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I found 2 Ford OEM part numbers for what seems to be the same identical metal CAC Tube for the drivers side.
6C3Z-6C640-AA
and
6C3Z-6C646-BA
I wanted to place an order today for my '06 but want to make sure it's the right one. What is going on here? (maybe one is for a '03-04) I Don't know...
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With an AD2 and no HFCM, need to have a part number for just the top of engine filter? All I can find (Motorcraft, AMSOIL, Racor) are the dual filter kits.
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I'm doing standpipes and dummy plugs. There is a 4mm plug with an oring and mine was trashed. What is the P/N?
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When I went to do my fuel filters tonight I found that the Fuel Return Tube had broken. I have the Ford part number 3c3z-9t289-AA and was looking to see what is the IH part number. I think I'll pick up that oil filter assembly too.
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I need to remove my EGR valve to clean the unit of carbon. While there I will be removing the intake elbow to check if I have the throttle plate installed on my engine. What the part number is for the gasket / o-ring that seals the elbow to the intake manifold??
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Can't seem to find a number for just the bearing and snap ring. All I can find are the dang assemblies.
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Does that little clip that grounds the PCM case have a part number? I've been troubleshooting an "SES - but no codes that would cause it" issue, and noticed tonight that clip is not there. Even a photo would work, as I assume I could make one if I had to. It's just a piece of copper, right?
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Looking for the Ford (or even Dorman) part number for the Water-in-Fuel sensor that bolts to the outside of the fuel bowl?
Guzzle has it pictured here:
The water sensor tip on mine is badly corroded and eaten away.
What's a part number and who sells them that I can get it delivered next day?
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My truck was leaking a bit of oil in the valley that was running down the back of the engine. Found the oil pressure switch was leaking up through the plug, replaced it and when I fired the truck up it was leaking more than before. Long story short, the oil pressure switch stripped out the oil cooler cover. I've been doing some research online and found a few threads about adapters that guys have made but no luck on where to buy one. I really was hoping to not have to tear this thing down to the oil cooler again.
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where the oil pressure switch is on a '05 E350 6.0 PSD? My filter is on the bottom, is it near or part of that housing?
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I've started retrofitting foglights into my mother's 2012 Tiguan (S 4motion). All of the parts were dealer ordered, but twice now they've sent me the wrong switch. The mounting/locking mechanism is the wrong size (too large on the new switches). In addition, the second switch had an "auto" selection.
The original part number was 3C8941431F C1F-T shown on the left here:
The two part numbers they have shipped so far are:
3C8-941-431-G-XSH and 3C8-941-431-E-XSH
I need a standard headlight switch, no auto, with fog (front only is fine).
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What is the part number of the auto hold switch.
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Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
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2004 6.0. 160K miles.
I'm about to replace an injector and wanted baseline info on fuel pressure before doing the work. Using a gauge tapped into the top of an aluminum alloy fuel filter cap (from bulletproof diesel), I turned the switch key on but did not start the engine.
Static pressure jumped to 60psi, but as soon as the pump cut off the pressure dropped off to zero. Again, engine not started. I cycled the key off and back on and the pressure hit 60psi and held that until the pump cycled off, then dropped back to zero.
I'd like to get a few confirmations that fuel pressure should or should not fall off when the pump kicks off.
Side note, during the crank process the pressure jumps and holds at 60psi and stays at 60psi while idling. I have not conducted a dynamic road test yet. Didn't have the adapter to connect my long hose...
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Truck has a high oil pressure leak, only leak i have found is in the high pressure rail, I cannot get to it till sat, or sunday. So I have to let the oil cool before I can start. Any way testing to find the right temp for Oil to thicken enough to Build? I've been here for hours and its went from 180's to about 100 now...
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I have a High pressure oil leak somewhere, and where it can be. I tore the oil rails out and replaced the nipple cup seals last night. I got it all back together and air tested it and sure enough a leak is present. I have no problem paying for your time (I always provide good beer). I can rebuild gas motors all day long, but these diesels has me thrown for a loop. The frustration I am experiencing is crazy at this point. All the injectors are new, and the dummy plugs and standpipes were replaced as well.
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I have replaced hpop, lpop gears and cover, stand pipes, dummy plugs, rebuilt high pressure rails, and i still have issues. The icp readings on torque pro are mostly below 100 hot. I am clueless... I ordered the icp air fitting but it wont be here until tuesday.
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I was watching a tv show a while back, I cant find the episode but I think it was performance tv, and they had a 6.0 L expert on there and he was saying they see a lot of high pressure oil rail end caps come loose and or pop out. He was saying that they tap/thread the end of the oil rail and put a threaded in cap? Does it make any sense, can it be done, is it worth doing?
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