Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: A/C Clutch Cycling Not Much Cold Air
Sep 11, 2016
At the first of summer I had typical A/C Clutch cycling not much cold air. Checked the Low Press side said it was low PSI took a Gamble that the pump was good and just filled it worked great. Lost All A/C the other day checked it out thought it may have small leak somewhere but clutch didn't cycle hardly at all Had a gut feeling it wasn't simple leak.
Well I just found a Hole in the condenser at the bottom Tube that runs across. So looking for new condenser. I also don't know what to do with recharging it and the ac oil in the system how much? maybe its safe to say most the oil was pumped out. Would standard procedure be to repair it then FLush cooling system to get to a baseline and then refill prescribed amount of oil and Freon
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So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
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I Just replaced the ac condenser filled it with new freon and now the clutch cycles on and off every few seconds but doesn't blow cold air. Does it need to settle for a while or run on high max AC for a while before it works properly? I filled it to the proper level. I'm pretty confident its full. Do I need to adjust anything? It hasn't worked in a few years I bet. I just got the truck. 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel ....
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My Fan Clutch seems to come on quite often when its not needed. Mostly when towing. I don't have any live monitoring system on my 05 excursion. no codes. I did recently replaced svt sensor and radiator was found with a leak replaced that. still having that problem?
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Fan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
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I recently put a new clutch on (after living without AC for a year and a half!) and now the AC is on, it just doesn't cycle off and after a while the air stops blowing. I assuming this is from the coils freezing over and icing up not letting air by? What do I need to check to get it to cycle off?
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It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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I'm hearing a plane type sound on my 2004 f-250 6.0 and i also noticed the temp gauge needle went up but still in normal range and then went back to the middle range when slowing down or parked. I had a combustion test done and a leak test was done and all passed. The reservoir tank had a leak and changed that before all the test were done. The mechanic did various run test and it didn't over heat but it did when i got it back. My guess is that the fan clutch is out but not sure. An AutoZone guy came out and looked at the fan clutch and asked me to turn it on and hit the gas and then shut it off. He noticed that the fan clutch kept turning fast and he said it's not supposed to do that.
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My Edge is reading "PO528: Fan Speed Sensor Circ No Signal". When I'm pulling a large 5th wheel up a 4% hill by the time I hit the top (if I don't slow down)warning beeps are gong off and my ECT is at 240. I can hear the fan come in at 215 and it stays in all the way up in temperature.
All the posts say c/o the fan clutch. While that may fix the fault signal, would it do anything for the temp situation. If the fan is locked in it seems like a lot of money just to clear the fault. Or......is the fan still slipping but sounding like it's working? This my be not related but I did notice that as the temp rises the AC starts not working. By the time I reach the top of the hill it is blowing hot. As we go down the other side and ECT comes down, it starts cooling.
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I have a 2003 6.0 and I got a scan gauge recently to monitor the fan speed rpm's.
When the engine is running at 2500 rpms the fan speed is only at around 350-400 rpm's.
I did have a code for IAT 2 circuit high I think I read that the egr is disabled when the iat 2 sensor is getting more than 4.8 volts.
Can a bad iat 2 sensor, egr valve or icp sensor cause the fan not to function properly?
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06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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So again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
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I have a 04 F250 6.0L ,The center bolt that holds the a/c clutch to the compressor. I'm assuming that bolt needs to be tight, correct? Mine was loose when I looked at it last night. My a/c squeals for a while trying to engage. Also, is that bolt right or left hand threads? Can that clutch be replaced without removing the compressor?
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I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
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He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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I just bought a new to me, 2005 ford f-350 6.0L turbo diesel with 220,000 miles. It has an EGR delete, and aftermarket intake and exhaust. I am having power loss issues, and cold start issues, and judging from these symptoms, I figured it was the FICM. I thought it had to be the FICM. As per the tech folder on this site, I tested the FICM. I first learned that I have one of the Bullet proof FICM's, and when I tested it (3 times) it read between 57.5 and 58V. I conducted this test three times both with just turning the key, and with the truck running. I then took the truck into Ford, and they gave me a list of all of the codes the truck threw:
P0611
p0113
p0405
p0671
p0673
p0675
p0677
p0341
I researched all of these codes, and it seems to point to the FICM, but Ford stated they pulled a reading of 54.5v. The tech then told me that the upgraded bullet proof FICM probably ruined my injectors, because my injectors we not upgraded. Is this True?
Even though my FICM is above the low limit for voltage, can it still be going out? I am taking the truck in to have the batteries load tested, so I will know if they are contributing to my FICM failing.
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How would I test (if Possible) the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch on my 88 E-150 4.9L? I had to replace the evaporator, it was leaking along a seam. I have a feeling the Cycling Switch is bad too.
I was hoping for a simple test w/o Gauges. The Switch is in a real tough spot to remove it. I also heard they could be adjusted. There are no leaks in the system and no blockages, that we detected when we evacuated and recharged the system.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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Well.. my truck has been running great for the past few years. This morning I went to start it and all it does is cranks and cranks.. no start not even a sputter.. I use the torque app and noticed the HPOP was over 900 psi during cranking and ICP volts were .8 volts. FICM was 48.5 and around 47 during cranking. I even unplugged the ICP connector and got the same results.. just cranks and no start. i noticed while it cranks i don't get any white "smoke" coming out of the tail pipe I even sniffed in there and I don't smell any diesel at all.
I pulled the upper fuel filter and it is full of fuel, the fuel pump does its normal buzzing when the key is turned on. I even checked the emergency shut off switch for the fuel pump and it was fine. At the moment I am charging both batteries... they were draining because of all the cranking. I think I will check the FICM with a multi meter when the batteries are good and charged.. Seems weird to be running fine with no hints of issues then all of a sudden its dead.
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