Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 5r110w - Tow Haul Starts Flashing
Sep 6, 2016
So driving the other day and tow haul starts flashing. I come to a stop sign and goto take off and it barley takes off. It will barley roll if my foot is off the pedal sometimes wont even roll. Also won't shift into 6th. Once it gets rolling though say till about 25 it's fine. Just doesn't wanna take off? I scanned the trans but got no codes. And here are some pressures and stuff but I don't know what I'm looking for with the trans. This was all done in park.
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2005 Ford F250 4x4 XL 5.4L 5R110W WITH 177,600 MILES... Tow Haul light flashed after 78 miles (along with other codes) after purchased. I purchased it used. While driving transmission would stop pulling as if it went into neutral and slam back into gear, at same time Tow Haul light be flashing...
Code is P0760 shift solenoid #3, I read from the forums on the site one caused could be the ground wire. We installed a ground strap from battery to tranny
Still does the same.
I have a shift solenoid ordered if needed, knowing the location of #3 solenoid in the tranny is the key to not having to keep dropping the pan. I love this site and have been reading it for long time.
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Have a Gage fault and tow haul flashing on the dash have no clue what is going on?
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My co-worker has an 06 F250 SC 4x4 and is getting a P0713 code. 2006 Ford F250 6.0L Diesel ... Tow/haul light comes on flashing at random times. Truck is reading a P0713 code which is the TFT Sensor Failure/Replacement
Ford dealership is telling me that I also have to pull the valve body and install the new upgraded wiring harness (3-3.5 hours labor) but a thread on this forum stated I just needed to replace the sensor in the tranny pan and reconnect the wire harness. Do I need to upgrade the wiring harness?
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Okay so I just peaked 100k and (of course) my 6.0 has an issue. I was driving along when suddenly my Transmission Temp gauge dropped to nothing, the tow haul began flashing and my check engine light came on. My transmission hard shifted and wouldn't shift up from 3rd. I let the truck sit for a few days, no leaking was observed and no blown lines. I added 4qts of tranny fluid and went to take it for a spin. The truck did fine for about 20 minutes and the same issue occurred. I parked it and checked the dip stick and it was full. What could the issue be.
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Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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Is there a way to auto engage the Tow/Haul mode when you plug in a trailer that requires brakes? Be nice since I sometimes forget to push the button after we stopped for lunch...
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How do you diagnose a bad fan clutch? When driving in tow/haul mode I get a noise like a jet engine. It starts going down grade or upgrade and does not stop after leveling out. I have switched off tow/haul and it is still there. Over on the Diesel Stop site I found a couple of guys who have had the same problem. Concern is everything I have read there are no codes thrown. Have not taken to my local Ford Dealer to see what they say.
Driving a 2011 F-250, August 2010 build date with 76,500 miles. Problem started about 6 weeks ago when pulling an 8000 lb travel trailer in the White Mountains of NH.
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I have a 2012 ford f350 SRW 4x4 with the 6.7L. Problem I have just started to have. When going downhill in tow haul the truck at first will hold you back then all of a sudden it starts to up shift at 20 mph it reaches 6th gear pretty quick. I talked to the dealer and they suggested I was pushing the shift buttons, but I am not. They told me to drive it till next week and then they will see if there are any codes in it.
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In addition to significantly louder noise from the Turbo on start-up, we've started to hear a pretty concerning noise while descending a hill in Tow-Haul. Not sure that the T/H has anything to do with it other than getting the engine in a RPM range that causes the noise. We've taken it in and tech says "That's just normal noise"... What ever that is.
Here is a link to an example : Tow haul making a lot of noise in my F350 diesel. Pulling a very heavy horse trailer. - YouTube
Best next steps for a 64,000 mile 2012?
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Title says it all. Chirping sounds almost like belt noise but appears to be coming underneath the vehicle (and from further back than the drivers seat). Goes away as soon as I turn off tow haul (which provides engine braking). A quick visual inspection finds nothing amiss. Trucks runs and drives normally with or without tow haul.
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I have an 05 Excursion and I drove and parked it, no problem. Came back out and the trouble began. I looked on this site (always do for the best guidance and info) and replaced the trans position sensor, put tunes back to stock. Since then, I have had intermittent issues with the truck only starting with the code reader plugged in, idle jump to 750 rpm, and the tow/haul light flash and won't shift into OD. It also seems at full stops it is not in the low gear. I am driving it to the "stealership" today to have the computer flashed. Additionally, the blinkers won't flash, they only illuminate. All this started at once. Where all the ground straps/wires are??
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Quick observation: with the exhaust brake switch off, I notice it appears that the exhaust brake is still working automatically when you are in Tow/Haul mode and apply the brakes coming down a hill.
I notice the engine drone and turbo boost gauge rise...although neither the drone nor the boost are as noticeable as when the switch is turned on.
I know the 2011-2014 had "auto exhaust brake only" but it appears some of that functionality is still built in.
Another question: what is the consequence of turning the exhaust brake on and leaving it on for normal driving? Is mpg affected? Engine output? Engine wear?
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It's on my 2015 f-250....dont know if this is a new thing ..... I know my 2011 f-350 didn't have it..... Really hardly notice its working ....it slightly slows me down when in tow/haul mode while braking......
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My friend has a 2006 F-450 and he said the Tow/Haul light blinks and the shifts are real slow. He has stopped towing now and it still drives.
I have read everything from toasted tranny to chaffed wire harness across tranny crossmember to the TFT sensor. My guess is the TFT sensor given his symptoms. If I am right the sensor is just to the rear of where the dipstick comes thru the tranny case. 1/4 turn and pull it out. Kinda like a bulb I guess.
Another question, is it necessary to replace the harness while in there as well? Is the Connection listed below the harness I am asking about? I found these parts on a thread from here:
Sensor (1): 3C3Z-7H141-AA;
Connection (1) 4C3Z-7G276-AA;
Gasket (1): 3C3Z-7C155-DA;
Fluid (10): XT-6-QSP
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I have a 2000 F-350 dually. I am having an intermittent problem with the the OD light. The symptoms are after coming to a complete stop the OD light starts flashing and when trying to move forward it feels as if the brakes are dragging and sometimes stalls out the engine. The codes read with a Superchip 1705 are p1670,p0720, and P0503. When I shift into park, the engine rpms jump from idle to about 1500-1600. I have replaced both the differential VSS and the transmission OSS but still have the same problem.
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Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
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I have an 03 excursions with 6.0. I downloaded the sct livewire ts and the problem started. Through truck has no power the thief light flashes codes for cam and crank sensor and on when it acts up the glow plug light comes on. On the on the ts monitor it says no key in the ignition.
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I have an 03 Excursion with 220,000 on the clock. Started getting harder starts randomly about a month ago, maybe a little more, pulled codes got p2290. Reset everything, changed the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, eventually the ICP sensor itself and rebuilt the IPR with new screen kit and rings. Hard start went away for about a week but ICP pressure was dropping drastically during hard throttle or even trying to go up a good sized hill. I had a bypass oil filtration kit on and noticed that the connection on top of the oil filter housing was weeping at idle and leaking enough at throttle to possibly cause an issue. Replaced with new OEM filter cap and fill cap, and ended up with a no start and low ICP pressure.
Got it started today after a long crank (15+ seconds), ICP and IPR at idle both warm and cold are mid 600's and low 20's (I can get actuals if needed). After reaching operating temp starts fine after shut off (both immediate and after sitting for 20 minutes). I picked up a selection of parts and tools including an ICP air test tool. Also grabbed a hpop gasket kit and the updated O-rings for the whole system. Live scanning wise I have an Edge CTS and also an SCT x4 that I can use.
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