Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 - Won't Start When Hot?
Dec 31, 2015
jump in my warm truck head out anywhere and go inside after shuting the truck off. come back 15 min later and ya she wont start. crank all day long don't make any difference. wait till the oil temp comes down to 60 deg celcius and boom she starts like nothing is wrong. from everything I have read and that's a lot since this has been going on for 2-3 weeks, seems possible to start with the stc fitting. seems to have only become an issue since I did an engine oil flush and oil change. the truck was new to me in early august. truck has 310000 km. the oil change was done mid oct. my issue started once the temps started dropping to -0 deg cel over night. I don't cold start now that its -10 or colder always plugged in for 3-4 hours before heading to work.
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2007 6.0 my dash lights will flicker when the key is turned on and the truck wil crank but won't start, but when the lights stop flickering truck starts .. How to fix the flickering dash light?
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07 6L gave me a fit the other morning. I spent the night in the mountains Saturday night. Sunday morning was -5. With no place to plug in the block heater. When I started it it bucked and hawed and didn't want to run... It keep surging for a while and finally smoothed out after about 3 mins... Is there an additive that will work for this for the times there is no place to plug in? Oil additive or fuel additive?
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07 f250 I just replaced the power steering pump. I put the serpentine belt back on and when I started my truck I now have a squeaking noise. It's driving me nuts and the more I push the pedal it gets alil louder. Now before I did the ps pump I did hear a little noise like of bearings squeaking when I put my ear to grill.... I put the old ps pump pulley on the new pump but I don't think that is it because it is pressed on. Would it be a bad idler/tension pully? Is it just a coincidence after I do ps pump that it now decides to squeak?
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I have a 2007 f250 6.0 powerstroke that had an intermittent crank no start problem so I replaced the sti valve on the hpop. Put it back together no start ran a few tests found the FICM had 22 volts replaced that still no start replaced IPR valve because I got a 0 ohm reading from it still no start. I am just about out of patience with it I am going to add some pics of the scanner I am using. I dont know the difference between ICP DSD and ICP PRESS.
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i have a 2007 f350 6.0 and it was running fine. I parked it in my driveway for a couple of months and then went down one day to start it. The first day it started but the second day i went down it wouldn't start. it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I changed the oil, repaired the FICM and still got nothing. Then i took a generic scanner and got the code p2285. I replace the ICP but still no start. I have also changed both batteries. I'm not getting any codes right now either. What is going on?It has around 229,000 miles
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I have a 07 6.0 that won't start it died a few weeks ago while driving. Being a mechanic I've done numerous things to the truck in order to fix all the common 6.0 problems but can't figure this one out. It will crank and get oil pressure and fuel pressure but seems to not be getting fuel. The IPR valve isn't clogged I tried with 2 working valves nothing worked. Along with changing the ficm. The connections to the ficm are clean and all in tact. I have an edge evolution chip that isn't even showing any codes. Not sure what to try next since I don't have any codes to go off of.
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I am working on my partner's 2007 F250, it was running great, and we did an aftermarket EGR cooler, and a new oil cooler, and of course the screen was torn in the old one, tore it all down, cleaned everything, put it all back together.......with the new parts, and no start, we cranked and cranked and cranked on it, for about 20 to 30 seconds at a time, giving it 3 to 5 minutes cool off time for the starter between cranking, about 30 times over a two day period, and no start. Finally, I decided to give it a little starting fluid, and it finally kicked off, it would run at a higher RPM, and if you so much as let off the throttle a fraction of an inch it would die, and not start again without starting fluid. I got it running again with the fluid, it was at 2000 RPM, and my mechanic reached over and turned on the A/C (we are in Florida) and it died. I have no way to check the HPOP pressure, but the truck was running great before we did this, and I checked it for codes, there are none! It will not start without the starting fluid. The longest we had it running was about three minutes, then his foot slipped back just a hair on the throttle, and it died. The truck only has 117K miles on it.
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Recently I replaced the unison ring on my turbo, EBP sensor and cleaned carbon out EBP tube/upper part of motor. After doing so she seemed to run fine but not like I remember when I first got her. Plenty of power but ever so slightly off, only an owner would notice. Few weeks later she hesitates a little bit while she's cold in the morning. I let her run 3-5 minutes b4 actually driving but as u know it's a little while to get up to operating temp. Temps seem OK 190-200 EOT/ECT. Fresh oil/filter, air filter, coolant, EGR was cleaned out a little while back and EGR valve replaced 25k ago. I'm not sure where to look at this point...the motor has about 30k on it.
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I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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Went out to start my truck this morning and it wouldn't start. Cranks fine and almost started once but died. Checked all fuses all my voltages are good. Oil and coolant are good. When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump and sounds like it's priming correctly. Might be an issue with a clogged fuel filter? Maybe? Haven't had any problems or issues otherwise.
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2007 6.0 6 speed, 187,000 miles. The other day started truck, had been running about 20 minutes before. Started fine, go to drive, chugging white smoke, smelled like unburnt diesel, baby truck home, seemed to run ok at low rpm, truck warmed up and ran fine. But I also noticed turbo boost was acting funny. Truck ran fine next few days. Then this morning, started cold fine, started to drive it and same chugging white smoke, it quit by the time j got to the end of my driveway, but drove to work, it quit smoking, ran pretty smooth, but will not build any boost. Truck is bone stock except for exhaust, it's straight piped. Ok. So this eve I borrowed my dads edge cts, here's all the engine codes:
P0069
P0269
P0299
P2262
P2269
The last one is water in fuel, since it started this crap I did notice it was right after it came on in the dash. I'm trying to figure out where to start....
On another note. VGT duty shows 85% at idle ?
Ficm voltage is constant 48 volts
Newer batteries
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My truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
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I have an 07 6.0 diesel and I'm having trouble once it gets hot. It begins to lose throttle response and shakes while cruising and also has a rough idle. sometimes it dies while idling but after cooling off for a few minutes starts back up and runs fine. I've checked the high pressure oil and the ficm and both of those are fine. I've done an EGR delete so it has nothing to do with that either. My MPG also goes way down when this happens.
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I have 2007 6.0, rough idle starts, rough and no power till engine reaches running temperature, runs great after that. If the engine is off for half hour, and restarted, runs rough again till engine temp is back again.
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I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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Had long start issues. Would turn over for 5 seconds - shut off- turn over for 5 seconds - shut off - third try on 4-5 seconds the low oil pressure would come up and HOP would fire injectors and start up.
Was not sure what was up, so look it to Ford. They did leak down test and found seal at the top of injector 4 was leaking. Replaced it and leak moved to other injector. Basically moving to the next weakest seal point. I told them to stop as i did not want to pay, parts, labour and shop time to replace all injectors, etc. They also said power across all injectors was good, but 3 & 7 were not contributing on cold start.
I drove it home and bought parts. New cups and seal for all 8 on fuel rail. New gasket kits for injectors. Plus 2 new injectors to replace 3 and 7.
Replaced injectors in 3 & 7 with the 2 remanufactured i bought. Replaced all cups and seals on fuel rails. So it has new injectors in 3, 4 & 7.
As for the other injectors i took the 5 of them right apart and cleaned them and re-assembled. Took about an hour per injector, took my time to get it right, just FYI. Went pretty good i thought. Seemed pretty straight forward actually.
Now no start - no high oil pressure at all. LOP comes up right away. Scanner shows no HOP no matter how long i crank it.
FICM power good, 47.5 - 48
shows FICM sync - YES
IPR sits at 14% and jumps to 84% on crank - starting, see photos below.
Scanner prior to crank
Scan during crank
Note zero IPC - PSI
Right now.... Got the valve cover off on passenger side. Cannot see oil squirting out the sides of any injectors, but line of sight is limited. Maybe need a small mirror to see in there. LOP comes up better than it has in years, but no HOP now. Before rebuild it seemed i had good HOP but low LOP.
I drove it home from Ford and into my garage, so i do not believe the HPOP crapped out sitting in the garage, so i am ruling that out as a fail, at this time.
Dummy plugs were replaced 5 years ago and o-rings looked decent.
Pulled the small plug screw at the top of the fuel rail. Cranked it until oil came out, bleeding air. then replaced the screw plug. Have not done that on drivers sideyet. Will try that tomorrow. However, think this is more than an air issue, as i have cranked it over plenty, unless i just have that much air.
Going to pull the valve cover on the Driver's side tomorrow. Then will have both covers off at same time to view all.
Noted that if i put compressed air into the screw hole on top of the fuel rail, i can hear air coming out from below the fuel rail. Nothing at the base or around injectors. Does not seem to be at the cups either.
Just wondering.... Buy applying air to those screw plug holes, is that the same as doing the air test at the sensor that pokes up through the valve cover.
With air pressure at these scew plugs on the fuel rail, should this be sealed and be air tight and hear no air leakage. Because it was not air tight on the drivers side before i closed that side up. I am curious about this.
I am assuming i still have a HOP leak. I do not think i have a failed HPOP. How to better chase a HOP leak?
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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