Have been working on military diesels for years. I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0. I am currently waiting for a new oil cooler as I have oil coming from my coolant reservoir and no coolant in my crank. My question is I have been having my engine light coming on and off intermittently since deleting my EGR cooler.
View 6 RepliesI have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
View 14 RepliesI did not run the truck for 5 months and the engine will not crank. I charged the batteries but when I turn the key nothing happen, I hear the glow plug system going but nothing else, starter does not click at all.
One thing that scares me is that there is no coolant left in the reservoir and I am scared that it went in the engine. I did have to add coolant last summer.
How can I first test the starter? Can I turn the engine by hand? If I push the truck, does the engine turn and can I tow it without damaging the engine if it is hydrolocked?
Traveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
I'm new to the diesel scene and I'm having trouble here i just replaced the head gaskets and did the head studs, also the EGR delete with oil cooler done all by me at home because I'm low on cash and the truck was pouring coolant through the turbo before due to overheating and bad egr and blown head gaskets i didn't have the heads checked before i installed them because I'm broke now and I need my truck but it wont start now and continues to spit and smoke coolant out the reservoir.
View 13 RepliesI bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
View 14 RepliesOk I bought a 2006 Ford F350 with 6.0 after driving for about 3 weeks I noticed a little bit of coolant was disappearing out of reservoir. So yesterday I was driving with a load Reservoir overflows replace coolant with one gallon of coolant and finish trip with no issues. I started truck today and it will not stop smoking it is also not overheating after hearing about head gaskets. I'm hoping it might be EGR cooler white smoke smells like raw diesel fuel. What to do?
View 3 RepliesWhile servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
This is a 2007, 143K F350 Sometimes will sit for a week before I use it. It has a mind of its own. Some days it will start right up and if I put it in gear it stalls. I have to wait for the EOT to come up to normal temps. Yesterday I drove it to the store that's a mile away and when I pulled into a parking spot it just stalled as if I turned it off. Doesn't happen all the time.
I do use a scan gauge on it all the time.
Cold Start
Key on Engine off
IPR-14.81
ICP- 0
FICM 48
Start up
IPR-31.21
ICP-917
FICM 48
MAP- 14.6
ECT 90
EOT 82
As its getting warm
ECT 126
EOT 111
IPR 27.3
ICP 712
put into R and Drive
ICP- 711
IPR 25.3
In Neutral
Brought RPMS up to 2000
IPR 32
ICP 1000
FCIM 48
RPMS at 3000
IPR 49
ICP 1800
FCIM 48
Back to Park and ideling
ECT 164
EOT 155
IPR 23.8
FCIM 48
MAP 15
ICP 585
I'm trying to elimate ICP and IPR, Do these numbers look correct?
I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
I have a 2007 F250 with the 6.0. Towing up a long hill my truck went into limp mode. I didn't have gauges at the time so I didn't know what my temps were. I now have gauges. I know that the coolant and Oil temps should not be more than 10-15* apart, but what is the max temp that oil should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill? Also, what is the max temp that coolant should EVER get towing up a steep and long hill?
View 14 RepliesToday on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
I've gone through every possible step in diagnosing myself but can't seem to figure it out. I do not have access to shop air to do an air test. Vehicle history that I know of: Has updated STC fitting, looks to be a reman hpop. I have tested the LPOP with the oil filter housing, fills quite fast, although no pressure registers while cranking on the gauge. When I opened the HPOP case to take a look, I found the reservoir dry. What can cause the LPOP to not feed the HPOP? I will be updating everything. The truck has relatively low KMs sitting at only 163,000.
View 14 RepliesIn my brake fluid reservoir I have a little blue filter that looks like an upside down bottle cap. the bottom of it has a fine screen so as you pour fluid in it filters. Is this a standard feature or did the previous owner add this? Where I can get a replacement as this one has a hole in it. I accidentally got it with a screw driver.
View 9 RepliesWell got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
I have a new *to me* 2005 F250 and last night I noticed there is a leak around the brake fluid reservoir where it connects to the frame of the truck. Everything seems to be in good order not sure exactly whats causing the leak. It only when driving and for a short while after shutting the truck down, everything seems to be in good order but still it drips a lot.
View 9 RepliesIt only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
Currently truck is in the shop after having multiple episodes where it lost power. It has 47,000 miles on it. When pushing down gas pedal, just does not want to go. Very slow to shift through the gears and get to highway speed. Turbo was not there, and there was also a hard shift/jerking from 2nd - 3rd. Did notice the traction control sensor kick on a couple of times....which was just replaced since a hole rubbed through the wiring. (took it to Ford twice before they found the problem)
They told me today that the code generator said to look at wiring but they did not find anything (heard that before) and that the fuel is possibly contaminated with DEF. If that is the case, someone is messing with my truck! What I don't understand that if the DEF does turn out to be in the fuel tank, wouldn't we have the problem continuously and not intermittently over a month after driving thousands of miles and going through numerous tanks of fuel? We drive and average of 60 miles per day just for work, half interstate/city.
My ABS light keeps coming on randomly. Sometimes it's on for a full day sometimes a few seconds. It's pretty weird because it doesn't throw a code or anything. Where to go from here.
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