My truck recently has been giving me the issue of wither having no boost , bogging down as its trying to excelerate , then going into overboost. It idles fine , i have cleaned out the egr . I'm at a complete list on what to do at this point the truck is a 2007 F250 6.0l
View 4 Replies07 6L gave me a fit the other morning. I spent the night in the mountains Saturday night. Sunday morning was -5. With no place to plug in the block heater. When I started it it bucked and hawed and didn't want to run... It keep surging for a while and finally smoothed out after about 3 mins... Is there an additive that will work for this for the times there is no place to plug in? Oil additive or fuel additive?
View 14 RepliesI have a completely stock 2007 F350 turbo diesel with 98000 miles that i just bought . When accelerating from a stop, it runs so rich that it will barely move and it accelerates very slowly . It burbles excessively and spews black smoke . It slowly builds rpm . As it builds rpm it runs slightly better and the black smoke turns into a medium gray the faster it goes . It takes around 20 seconds to reach 3000 rpm on level ground with the accelerator pedal half way down . Once it reaches 3000 rpm, it runs fine and hauls a_s but looks like it still smokes a little.
The temp gauge stays right in the middle and it does not run hot . It starts and idles fine. The check engine light is on but i have not read the codes yet and can't do that until monday. I have read that it could be an injector that is stuck open but do not know how to check for that. I am a vintage car mechanic and engineer but I know zero about newer computer vehicles and very little about diesels.
I have experienced a hesitation on my truck since I purchased it 6 months ago. I get a one to two second hesitation at take off from a stop. I have checked the back pressure tube and the one that goes to the turbo controller no problems. I have a Edge CTS programmer that only shows ... for EBP.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 and I am having some issues with a hesitation and lose of power. The hesitation is worse when under load and other times is not so bad. Also it is non existent at higher RPMs (2500 and up). I changed the egr valve 2 months ago and it seemed to fix the issue (95%) but now it is running bad again. I used Hot Shot oil additive 2,500 miles ago and I changed the fuel filters and changed to 5w 40 Rotella synthetic oil, nothing has changed. I had the FICM changed a year ago with new software updates, still didn't fix it 100%.
Now I am having a "hard" start issue. It takes a bit for the truck to turn over. My batteries are 12 months old and I just replaced the alternator so I am not sure how to proceed.
I did just buy a Scangauge II and I am still figuring out how to use it. It says there is no codes.
I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 F-250 4x4 with no cat, and no egr but the valve is still connected. It has about 146,000 miles. Just recently when warm, it has a slight miss every once and a while when stopped and in gear. Just a slight drop in RPM then recovery. Its mainly used on the highway and 99% of the time I set the cruise and its smooth as silk. Every once and a while I feel it stumble once or twice, recover and it is fine for the next 80 miles with no issue. It started as once every few trips but now It seems to be happening at least once every other. I use Motorcraft filters (maybe 6K on the fuel filters) and rotella oil. My scangaugeII shows no codes and no Injector pressure issue (1200-1400 at 75 mph depending on grade) and the FICM voltage stays between 48.5v and 49.0V. What should I check?
View 2 RepliesRecently I have noticed my psi reading on my tuner hovers around .25 to .35 in the morning right when I start my truck. Normally it reads zero or is in the negatives. After driving around and stopping at red lights it will hover between .80 and 1.25. Now, I know that not a lot but its not what it normally reads.
Last week I went off road and my exhaust took a hit and loosened up and caused a small leak near the rear axle. I unbolted it and for the most part fixed the leak minus some alit air flow coming from the slits in the pipe. I'm not getting any codes and haven't noticed any decrease in performance. It does however seam to slow down quicker when I let off the throttle. I'm running an SCT X4 with dpf and erg delete and have a S&B CAI.
I called a performance exhaust shop and the tech said a small leak shouldn't cause any issue like that especially because its so far back. Another respectable vendor told me it might be that my vein are stick.
after my DPF delete and fl0-pro 5" install, i've noticed a slight decrease in lower rpm boost. with the tune i have i can still get it wound up, but it takes a little "gettin on it" to get there. i miss the little bit of boost i had from stop lights and what not, or even cruising at 50 with a slight increase in fuel. i don't want to have to have it downshift in order to spool the turbo to get me that slight uptick in power.
i've heard differing opinions - "stock turbos need the 4" for more backpressure" ; "5 inches is great, b/c you could always use a couple extra inches" ; "there's no difference between the two, but you don't NEED a 5 inch until you're at 1k bhp".
i've got the 5" setup on there... that's that. how can i increase the reaction of the turbos? i've read about a wastegate adjustment (tightening), but not sure i'm ready to undertake that in the driveway, and i don't have access to a lift. nor am i sure this will correct my "issue." (i quoted it, b/c it's not really an issue, it's just a personal preference that i'm wanting to adjust to make myself a little more happy with the performance of the truck)
Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
View 7 RepliesI have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
View 4 RepliesI was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
I've got an 05 EX 4x4 150k miles. Stock tune, EGR delete only ....
Driving along and everything was good plenty of boost no power issues. Got off the freeway and truck just stopped making boost. So I messed with it for a couple days. Cousin with a Mac scanner flaked on me so I was stuck using Edge gauge cluster and trying to trouble shoot.
NO CODES, No smoke, EGT's rise and truck seems like it is lean. Boost has fluctuated between 4psi to 11 psi. What should MAF be at idle?
ICP has been consistent with whatever boost levels were being made.
FICM 47.5
New MAP tube/nipple cleaned
New MAF
Clean Air filter
New fuel filters
VGT actuates
Accel ped in spec
Turbo spins free
New hot side CAC boots
Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
View 14 RepliesMy question may be unique -- I cannot find anything about this -- at an idle, what should the boost read? Sunday at WOT I saw 28.76 -- but at idle it generally reads 0.1-0.4 -- bounces around a little -- but is that about right? Also, at WOT and 28+ boost what should the VGT read? I really am trying to sort out what this information is telling me -- not is that normal or average but what is ideal and what represents a red flag -- cut the truck off you have a problem kind of numbers.
View 14 RepliesThe truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
View 3 Replies