Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 - Leak Near Hydroboost - Replace Entire Part?
Nov 6, 2014
So I take my new (for me but used) 2007 F350 to the local Ford Dealer to have the oil changed, along with fuel and water separator filters. I even added some Archoil 9100 since it treated my 03 so well. Since I had no history of the last change I wanted to do it right away.
While its on the lift he notices a leak near the hydroboost. I think there on crack...but that's my opinion.
Anyways I look at it and I see a leak at one of the connections under the Master Cyl. Its the connection closest to the firewall. My question is there a oring in there that can be replaced or will I need to replace the entire part?
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
View 13 Replies
I've been watching fluid build up on what I think is the hi-pressure line on the hydroboost. It appears to be originating at the coupling in the line because it is dry back at the unit.
Is there an o-ring or nylon washer in this fitting?
Can it be tightened?
Does the o-ring or washer need to be replaced?
Is it a sign of something else, like a build up of pressure in the line that is too high?
I currently have zero problems or noise coming from the steering or brake system.
View 8 Replies
Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 f-550 sd with a 6.0. I am having a problem with cyls, 2, 4, 6 and 8 dropping out at idle. if you rev the motor up they work fine. Could I have a bad injector oring? Seems that iap pressure is good. And seems funny that it is just the one side.
View 14 Replies
My 2007 F350 CC DRW KR has developed a serious oil leak recently. The oil runs down both sides of the bell housing but seems to be worse on the passengers side. It only leaks after five or so minutes of running and not while off. I have searched literally hundreds of threads and found only one that seemed similar and the resolution was never posted.
The truck is stock with only a turbo back 4" exhaust. I initially thought of the STC fitting failing and cracking the rear engine cover, but I still have very good ICP (650 almost immediately when cranking and at idle, 3000+ when on the throttle).
I plan to pull the turbo next weekend to check the drain tube and HPOP cover as well as checking/replacing the STC fitting (since I'm in there).
View 1 Replies
Looking to confirm the part number. My ICP is mounted on the RH valve cover and has a yellowish upper where the three pronged connector inserts.
View 10 Replies
Last couple of days I've been chasing a small oil leak. Finally figured out it's coming from one of the hoses connected to the lower part of the hpop (hpop hose). Leak is coming from the fitting connected to the lower part of hpop. Do I need to replace the whole hose and fitting? Just the fitting? is there a replaceable washer or oring?
View 10 Replies
I found 2 Ford OEM part numbers for what seems to be the same identical metal CAC Tube for the drivers side.
6C3Z-6C640-AA
and
6C3Z-6C646-BA
I wanted to place an order today for my '06 but want to make sure it's the right one. What is going on here? (maybe one is for a '03-04) I Don't know...
View 14 Replies
With an AD2 and no HFCM, need to have a part number for just the top of engine filter? All I can find (Motorcraft, AMSOIL, Racor) are the dual filter kits.
View 4 Replies
I need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
View 10 Replies
I'm doing standpipes and dummy plugs. There is a 4mm plug with an oring and mine was trashed. What is the P/N?
View 13 Replies
When I went to do my fuel filters tonight I found that the Fuel Return Tube had broken. I have the Ford part number 3c3z-9t289-AA and was looking to see what is the IH part number. I think I'll pick up that oil filter assembly too.
View 4 Replies
I need to remove my EGR valve to clean the unit of carbon. While there I will be removing the intake elbow to check if I have the throttle plate installed on my engine. What the part number is for the gasket / o-ring that seals the elbow to the intake manifold??
View 7 Replies
Can't seem to find a number for just the bearing and snap ring. All I can find are the dang assemblies.
View 11 Replies
Probably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
View 6 Replies
What is the part number for the high pressure oil rail check valves for a 2003 6.0L? I'm referring to the ones that screw into the oil rail. I would like to avoid the local dealer if possible.
View 6 Replies
Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
View 5 Replies
So I have my 2000 F250 in the shop because I was feeling a funny vibration in my brake pedal. (isn't warped rotors, I know what that feels like). It also felt like the brakes were on, then would release a little, lengthening my stopping distance.
I took it to a small local shop and the guy said it sounds like the hydroboost. I told them to fix it. Next day, before they start to fix, they call and say they can't guarantee it's the hydroboost and may be the Power Steering pump.
My question is; is there a way to test it to know for sure which part is failing? How do I figure out which one is causing the problem?
View 1 Replies
Had a lot to do yesterday and had stock trailer hooked up and loaded with debris.
Got 120 miles away, stopped and got the groan from hydroboost/p/s system.
The hose from the pump to the hydroboost was leaking but it was the actual seal on the fitting that gave up rather than the rubber.
Could not find the seal but luckily the Irish place had the line in stock for a reasonable place.
Transmission got hot too backing up and puked out the front seal. I was doing a lot of twisting to get the trailer in the hole.
View 3 Replies
I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
View 12 Replies
